Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Everything posted by InkaSam

  1. Thanks Hans, yes I did remember to give the timing cover to the machine shop with the head and they did them together. Here in Australia we have 98 fuel which seems to be equivalent to 93 in the states. I'm basing my estimates on each 0.5mm of shaved head giving an extra 0.5 of compression (i think this is from the maccartney book). Based on this I think 9.3 bathtubs would be pushed to 10.8 CR in my case which I think would be problematic. Yes I do find myself being directed back to that page, lots of good information there.
  2. Thanks for the insights Toby, always much appreciated. I wonder if I can use the Toyota 20R pistons. The original 121 with flattop pistons got 8.5:1 CR, my head is shaved 1.6mm, the 20R pistons have pin height of 1.625 (41.275mm), standard 2002 flattops had pin height 1.665 (42.291mm) so 0.04 difference (~1mm). Would I be correct that the amount shaved off the head compensates for the short pin height of the 20R and then some, so I might get CR in the high 8s?
  3. I've got my 121 head back from the machine shop and I'm getting an average of 127.9mm (5.0354331 inches) when measuring the head height at the corners. For the deck height, i'm getting about 217.77 mm (8.573622 inches) although this may be a bit over the actual value because of the thickness of the calliper jaws (I didn't want to use the sharp upper jaws as they scratch things very easily). So if the original deck height from the factory is meant to be 217.2mm then my block has not been decked. The cylinder bores measured between 89.015 --> 89.087 so I would be looking to rebore to 89.25 mm if I can get the correct pistons. This will be a standard street car, just want something reliable and convenient to drive on the weekends. With the head having been machined so much (workshop manual recommending only going to 128.5mm, although Macartney says you can take off 1.5mm when trying to raise compression), I am wondering: 1. what my options are in terms of pistons, only flat-tops? or bathtubs too (would compression get too high? I want to keep it to 9.5 max, happy to go lower. Would the bathtubs be getting close to hitting the valves? If so I wont even bother searching for them) 2. do I need to use an adjustable timing sprocket to compensate for the change in timing because of the head height? Thanks, Sam
  4. Does it happen when pressing the brake pedal?
  5. Thanks for all your suggestions and comments everyone, I feel a bit out of my depth with this being the first engine that I've taken apart but it's been great drawing on the combined experience of the members, much appreciated! I've continued on with the dissection before sending the block off to the machine shop for cleaning and measuring. Here are the main bearing caps removed: And the crankshaft removed: and finally the other half of the bearings in the block:
  6. Thanks wegweiser, this sounds like a good offer. I have a few things I need to consider which maybe the forum can help me with: - this car will be used on Sundays to go on rides with the family, is 10:1 appropriate for such a use case? - premium fuel in Australia is 98 RON which seems to be like 93 in the states, will 10:1 compression cause detonation issues and make it hard for me to easily refuel and be a headache? - from the stampings on the current pistons the cylinder bores would be 89 (need to get machine shop to do actual measurements), if I rebore for 90.00mm pistons then I would be jumping a few rebore steps wouldn't I? Does that mean that I would not be able to rebore that block again? Thanks
  7. Hi RH002AJ, Yes the adjusting nuts on my rear brakes were rusted, I was really careful not to round their heads because I didn't want to replace the backing plate. So I applied WD40 and let it sit and also applyed heat before patiently rotating them while spraying more WD40, the rust started to come out and they became easier to turn. Once they were pretty smooth I applied some spray on silicon grease to keep out the moisture in the future. I think the fact that these adjusting bolts are exposed to the outside and they are in a tight spot with the wheels and tyres means that they often get rounded off. Good point about the lubrication of the wire itself, I haven't done that but it might be a good time to do it with everything exposed right now. I am upto my neck with engine parts currently as I took one engine apart and now it has been confirmed that the pistons need replacing, today i am going to check the pistons on the parts-car fingers crossed maybe they are useable and I could put one working engine into the car while I rebuild another with new parts.
  8. So I did some measurements on the pistons and I think the pistons are, how do you say in German? "Kapoot"! The pistons are KS brand and have 88.97 stamped on the top. I have one small micrometer which I used for measuring the ring height and used a digital verniers for the piston diameter and distance from top of piston to the top of the wrist pin hole ('A'). My feeler gauges are pretty basic, I have to get a better set but I measured the ring side clearance and ring gap anyway. Here are the results: #1: Rings: Groove 1: - side clearance = 0.457mm - ring height = 1.576 mm - ring gap = 1.397 mm Groove 2: - side clearance = 0.051 mm - ring height = 1.942 mm - ring gap = 0.813 mm Groove 3: - side clearance < 0.038 mm - ring height = 3.997 mm - ring gap = 1.27 mm Piston: Diameter: 88.96 mm 'A': 31.30 mm --------------------------- #2: Rings: Groove 1: - side clearance = 0.406 mm - ring height = 1.42 mm - ring gap = 1.313 mm Groove 2: - side clearance = 0.1 mm - ring height = 1.93 mm - ring gap = NA Groove 3: didn't measure Piston: Diameter: 88.93 mm 'A': 31.34 mm --------------------------- #3: Rings: Groove 1: - side clearance = 0.292 mm - ring height = 1.62 mm - ring gap = 1.143 mm Groove 2: didn't measure Groove 3: didn't measure Piston: Diameter: 88.94 mm 'A': 31.37 mm --------------------------- #4: Rings: Groove 1: - side clearance = 0.317 mm - ring height = 1.676 mm - ring gap = 1.372 mm Groove 2: - side clearance = 0.051 mm - ring height = 1.964 mm - ring gap = 0.762 mm Groove 3: didn't measure Piston: Diameter: 88.936 mm 'A': 31.433 mm The ring side-clearance on all pistons was way out, not even in the ballpark. I could easily feel the step that was created inside the groove. This clearance was much better on groove 2 and 3. The ring gap was another one which seemed to be way out on all pistons, not sure what that means. I don't have a bore gauge so I don't know what state the bores are in. I will pull out the pistons out of the 74 donor car and do a quick measure on them but they already have lots of pitting on the top of two of the pistons (steam damage I think). I get the feeling that I might need to get new pistons, are there any good sources of pistons for 121 heads?
  9. Just an update, I've sent the heads (sent the one from the 74 donor car too) off to the machine shop for pressure testing and inspection. In the meantime I got the pulley and the lower timing cover off, found the chain guides to be pretty badly worn so I will be replacing them and definitely the oil pump chain and some shims. The crankshaft sprocket, timing chain and cam sprocket l'm not sure. The 3 bolt chain sprocket is NLA, can I get the new splined rotor and put it in the old housing? Or better to buy a new e21 pump and change the pickups? Here's the 71 crank sprocket And this is the 74 sprocket on the donor engine: The caps are off the 71 rods: The journals look pretty clean. My machinist said he can hone and wash the block and then linish(?) the crank and gave me the pricing for some new bearings and rings. No going back now! I haven't cleaned the pistons yet or measured them as I only have a digital vernier caliper, that wont give me an accurate enough answer would it? I just wiped the bearings to see the surface better: I'm doing all this in a dusty garage, what precautions do I need to take when I go to assemble things?
  10. That's encouraging that you guys think the engine looks good! Tonight I tackled the sheared off coolant drain plug, it didn't take much drilling to get through, must have just been a little bit of the bolt left in there and that was already crumbling. The amount of rust flakes and powder that came out of there while I was poking a stick from above, was pretty amazing. I hope that all the deposits end up at that corner and it's not like that all over. I'm thinking about taking everything off the block and maybe pressure cleaning it. It's hard to take a photo of the drain hole but here is what it looks like now: I still haven't got the lower timing cover off because I don't have a big enough pulley, hopefully by the weekend. But I did take some photos of the oil pump chain, it feels very floppy to me. The factory manual says 'adjust chain tension so that the chain can be depressed with light thumb pressure', well I just have to touch it and it flops around, here it is without any pressure: Here it is being pressed with the end of a toothbrush: There seems to be some sort of shim under the pump already but I think a much thicker shim is needed to make the chain tighter. In order to take the pistons out, do I need to use a reamer to take the lip of the cylinders? No there is no cross-hatching left on the 2 cylinders that I had a look at but I haven't cleaned them up properly yet. There are some vertical lines on the cylinders, is the rule of thumb to run a fingernail along the cylinder and if I can feel the lines then it's a problem?
  11. Regarding the engine coolant drain plug, after a search it seems that other people have had this problem as well. My one is definitely sheared off, I cleaned it and it is solid metal in the hole, it wont act as a drain at all. I need to get the sheared part out of there and put a brass tap in there for easier draining in the future. Thanks, good advice, as rusty as it looks I'm going to let it be. I had a big chunk of time to spend on the car so I managed to get the head off, here are some photos: I have flat-top pistons and they are totally black with the build of carbon deposits, how do I clean them up? Here is the head gasket pealed off, any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated, take it to the machine shop? Tell them to do what? Some deposits in the water channels, lots more in the engine block Thanks for the detailed checklist @2002Scoob, I'll take photos of these things as I dismantle them, I haven't got the lower timing case off yet (not looking forward to getting the pulley off) but here are some shots of the upper timing sprocket: The flywheel has 2 sections where the teeth have been damage as you can hopefully see in the photo, below. Is this from operating the starter while the engine was running? Does this need replacing? Oil pan was clean The bottom end. Once I get the lower timing cover off I will get good photos of the sprockets. Does the oil pump itself cause any issues or is it mainly the chain and the sprockets?
  12. It's the weekend now in Australia so I have more time to spend on the engine. I used a better camera to take some photos of the sheared bolt on the exhaust side of the engine block: I assume that was the coolant drain plug, or is it? there is another one like it on the other side. Here is a shot of it showing how much was left in the block: What do you think I should do about the bolt, do I drill it out or leave it? I took the rocker cover off and the inside looks nice and clean to my untrained eye, what should I be looking out for? At this point I grabbed the pulley and turned it by hand and it turned ok, didn't seem to be jammed. 🤞 When facing the pulley I turned the engine clockwise until the pointer was pointing to the second notch on the pulley. There is a line and a number '2' on top of the chain sprocket, the books showed a notch which is meant to line up with the line on the sprocket but I couldn't see the notch, maybe it's under the pipe that runs in the middle of the head? I'm at the computer now to look up the factory manual. Here is a shot of the chain, is there any way to tell if it needs to be replaced or not? So what is the next step from here, do I take the tensioner off, take the sprocket off and tie the chain up so it doesn't slip or should I not worry about all that if the engine is on a stand and looks like I'll be taking the pan off as well and taking a look at the oil pump? Cheers
  13. It was a productive night tonight except one downer at the end. First I took the gearbox off the engine Then I took the exhaust manifold off, one of the bolts was missing. It took a bit of time to assemble the engine stand, after some trial and error, I decided the best way to mount the engine with my stand was to drill a new hole in the engine stand mounting plate and then reuse the car's engine-mount bolts to put the plate on. After a bit of wiggling up and down the engine was off the crane and on the stand. I should have stopped there for the night but then I thought I might undo the water bong on the side of the engine just to see. The bolt was not coming out too easily but I was careful not to be forcefull with it. As I got the bolt out and looked at it became obvious that part of the bolt was still in the engine block! Argggggh! But I don't think I was the one who sheered it because the bolt had rust on the end of it, someone must have sheared it off and then screwed it back on. I will take some photos of it tomorrow because I don't know how I'm going to get the rest of the bolt out of there.
  14. So far I've put the fuel tank back in, rewrapped the wiring harness and taken all the brake parts off for reconditioning. But I've just now started taking photos so i'm going to jump in with this one of the firewall with insulation put in. The rotors back from machining: New rubber parts for the callipers: Bearings repacked, rotors and callipers back on: The steel lines in and the reconditioned master cylinder mounted: Took me weeks to get the various bits and pieces for the heater box and rebuild it, unfortunately I was having so much fun with it that I didn't take any photos! The pedal box and the pedals got a bit of a paint job and put back in. The handbrake mount is so flimsy! You can see the crack in it already. The aim of this stage of my restoration has been to put things back together and get the car moving although it has been hard with scope creep getting the better of me at times. I'm aiming to just replace/fix things which are obviously broken or will break very soon, the handbrake mount is one of those things. First a shot of it with the nice cracks showing after the paint stripper, then a shot of the butchered welding job I did on it: The handbrake cables were really stretched so I had to use 2 metal tubes as spacers to get the cables tight enough to lock the wheels. The handbrake switch is a bit of a joke, I have it adjusted now so that after one click of the handbrake lever the circuit is completed but I can see that it wouldn't take much to knock it out of adjustment. I haven't put the rubber boot back on so I'm not sure how it's going to go with the handbrake cable bolts sticking out so much, if it looks like it's going to rip the rubber I might have to undo it all, cut the bolts and shorten the spacer tubes. The brakes have been bled and the steering box cleaned out and refilled. Without any oil in it the steering box had some spots which it felt pretty rough when turning it, it's much better now that it is full of oil but I'm not sure how it will on the road. The steering wheel back in after doing the ball point pen mod for the horn contact Welded the accelerator pedal mounts to the floor Put sound insulation in Preparing to take the head off Separated the engine from the gearbox. And onto the stand Sheared coolant drain plug. Rest of the bolt is still in there. Took the head off, the block looks ok, lots of carbon deposit on the piston tops. The starter ring on the flywheel needs some attention. The flywheel might need some machining. The head looks ok, might get it pressure tested and cleaned. The bottom end. The oil pump chain is very loose and the replacement sprocket with 3 bolts is no longer available. I'm going to pull the engine out of the doner car and have a look at the oil pump on that and see if I can make a good one out of the two. Here's the engine out of the doner car which came with the unfinished project car that I bought. I started this engine 11 years ago, it blow massive amounts of (white, from memory) smoke. Here's a shot of block with the head removed and the gasket still on. Some of the holes in the gasket are blocked from all the rust deposits. I haven't taken too many engines apart but I was expecting to see some sort of damage in the gasket which would explain the smoking. Here is the head, lots of rust and deposits in the coolant channels and some corroded edges getting pretty close to the cylinders on #2 and #3 maybe that's where the smoke was coming from? After some scrubbing of the block here is what I found: Piston #3 and #4 have these weird pitting going on, what could cause that? #3 seems to have been in battle at some point will lots of bruises. 88.87 is stamped on the top all the pistons even though it is hard to see in some because of all the pitting. I guess this block hasn't been bored before. I could still see some patches of the cross hatching in the cylinder walls. Finally to the reason I pulled the engine, to see if I could make a good oil pump out of the two. Unfortunately this car has exactly the same problem with the oil pump as the other one, the chain is pretty loose (although less so). I was hoping this one would have the later type pump with the one bolt sprocket, but no such luck. I might get a new chain and a bunch of shims to see if I can get the chain reasonably tight and then look out for a new oil pump in the future. The pump internals themselves where still within spec, shame that sprocket is not available any more.
  15. Thanks for all the advice everyone, I'm going to take the head off and see what state it is in. I made a start on it tonight, here are some photos. Some sort of corrosion on the outside, not sure what that means about what I'll find inside. I squirted some ATF in the spark plugs It's a 121 head 4 speed gearbox I took the intake off to make it easier to lift the engine The other car came with a weber, that would be better one to rebuild than the solex right? That's as far as I got tonight. Tomorrow I'll assemble the new engine stand and mount the engine onto it.
  16. Hi everyone, this is my first post here, thanks for this great resource it has helped me immensely while putting back together the pieces of my 2002. I have a question regarding an engine which has been sitting for at least 11 years (out of the car), should I try to get it going or should I take the head off to see what state it's in? Little bit of background, I purchased a 2002 project from the PO in 2008, it was actually 2 cars one which he had stripped and undercoated (71 model) and the other one (74 model) which was to be used for parts. I got the good shell painted but then I became a dad and the project sat for many years. This year I started putting things back together, I've done the brakes, the heater, wiring and insulation in the cabin and now looking at what to do with the engine. It hasn't been turned over for 11 years and I recently noticed that there are no spark plugs and I am a bit concerned that maybe some insects could have made a nest in there or maybe just dirt and dust got in. I'm planning to separate the engine from the gearbox because I read that the clutch is probably stuck to the flywheel after sitting for a long time. But I'm not sure what to do with the engine, I have never taken the head off an engine and wondering if I should pull it and see what's going on inside or should I oil it up and put it back in the car and see if it goes? Thanks
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.