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  1. Final piece of the puzzle solved. I spoke with the owner of the 2000 tilux. The car vin and engine number are a match. Bingo.
  2. I’ll contact Jeff. I bought a 1969 1600 last year with this motor. Was a black plate California car that I bought In Long Beach (coupe kings was selling it for someone else)
  3. It’s [email protected] Here’s a couple of pics of the block. The build date embossed on the block is 13c67 which I believe corresponds to March 13, 1967. And yes, I just received an email from BMW archives verifying build date, delivery date, and place (Switzerland) for that particular vin. All match the info published about this car.
  4. It's possible I may have the original engine for this car. I am in the process of overhauling it right now and the serial number on the block matches a vin for the same build date and delivery date of the ti lux above
  5. Steve570GT


    This entry in the Registry was originally created for the M10 engine original to this car. Through some sleuthing, however, @Steve570GT, owner of the engine, found the chassis in an older For Sale ad on the forum. The chassis was tastefully resto-modded a few years back and is described here:
  6. I will check that for sure, as I have a new chain. This begs the question. I know there are options for replacing the pump with the new rotor vs gear style. I don't have the pressure relief tube however, and i think its quite pricey
  7. The bore is 89 with 89 bathtub pistons. 80mm stroke. Has the standard chain tensioner Ramp as well. Interestingly I looked in realoem for that style oil pump. Doesn’t show on the 2000 nk. Doesn’t show anywhere for that matter.
  8. I believe you sleuths have figured this out. A 1967 2000 NK. Will send an info request to the BMW archives folks. Also will look at realoem a bit closer to see if this particular oil pump was used on the NK. By the way, absolutely no markings on the oil pump except for the letter E which might indicate an Eaton pump. Thanks again to all.
  9. Head is in the shop now, so don't have date code. Its a 121 however
  10. I understand that. The engine number stamped above the starter is +1457125+ which doesn't correspond to any 1600/2002 vin numbers. It does correspond to a vin from a 1984 318I. By that time, vin numbers were much longer, but those seven digits were part of the vin. I think the block has a casting date of 1967, but not sure (13C67) I guess this could have been a remanufactured block from the factory or as someone suggested possibly from a neue klasse 2000.
  11. Not sure what you mean by the bolting boss, but there is an identical one on the rear on the same side. I have seen these on most M10's I believe. By the way, the following numbers are cast in the block 13C67 (date code possibly?) Then 121 021 10 02 0 Steve
  12. It is a gear type (Eaton?) pump. It seems to have an internal bypass that doesn’t require the tube. The pump gears look fine and spec out as per the Haynes manual. I see no reason not to just leave it as is at this point. This engine was in a 69 1600 that ran fine. I put a different motor in that one. Now the question is that block serial number. It doesn’t correspond with any 1600 vin number. I think they started in the 156....... or so area. I will look for date codes on the block. steve
  13. I am rebuilding an M10. The block serial number is stamped 1457125, which i believe corresponds to an 84 318I. The rest of the motor is 2002 (80mm stroke crank, 121 head etc) however. The issue is the oil pump. It didn't have the pressure relief tube installed, There is the spring and piston assembly, but it is oriented completely differently. Engine ran fine prior to teardown. Have looked in realoem, but all the pumps I see (2002/E21/E30) either have the tube or are a different design altogether. Any ideas would be appreciated Steve
  14. Kind of what I thought. I've gone the hose clamp route, just thought there might be another option
  15. Have a 69 1600. Car came with Ireland stage one springs, which are of course loose on their perches when on jacks. Thinking of upgrading to Bilstein B6 inserts in front. Do these have a shorter travel strut that would eliminate this? Is there another option you might suggest?
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