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KwikFiVo

Solex
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  1. Hi, Everything below came off of my 1975 2002. Shipping costs not included. My motor shredded a bearing, so keep that in mind (probably only matters for the cylinder head). Send me an offer on anything. PM me your zip code and I will figure out shipping costs. E12 Cylinder Head, unknown condition, definitely needs rebuild: $100 Upper Timing Cover: $30 Oil Pan, no plug (I will clean it up a little before I ship it): $40 A/C Compressor, unknown condition: $20 (this part is heavy, so shipping costs might be high) Air Pump, unknown condition: $20 Fan: $20 Valve Cover: $30
  2. When I bolted it to the block everything lined up. They shaved the cover with the head.
  3. Just a rebuild. I tried getting shops around me to do the work and they had a hard time understanding it was not a Chevy 350, lol.
  4. Hi Everyone, I thought I would post a review about the shop I sent my M10 cylinder head to. The business is called Autohead Performance, and they are in Alabama: http://www.autoheadperformance.com/main/page_home.html This was a very positive experience from start to finish. Peter is a very good communicator and made sure to keep me posted on his progress. The head ended up needing to be welded, which he was able to take care of. The finished product looks great, he had it vapor blasted so it looks like new. The valves were adjusted and the cam was even rotated so it was ready for the timing chain to be re-installed. Overall, amazing attention to detail. Very fair prices for the work performed. Everything spent about 12 days at his shop (welding extended the time a little). I shipped my head to him, and he sent it back, very easy transaction. Thank you, Bob
  5. Found one on the FAQ. Thank you everyone!! -Bob
  6. It is an M10, stock build. Will replacing the rod bolts require the rod ends to be resized? My Haynes manual says to replace the flywheel bolts, but nothing about the clutch bolts. Any thoughts on those? Thank you, Bob
  7. Hi, I am doing a basic rebuild and am curious which bolts I must replace (I would like to re-use as many as possible). Thank you, Bob
  8. Hi, I am looking for the dipstick assembly for a 1969 M10. I believe they were all the same up to 1973. The part that bolts to the motor has a flange with four bolt holes. The picture below explains what I need. I am not sure what items 1, 2, 3 and 4 are, and I do not believe I need them. I will send you a PayPal for payment. Thank you, Bob Sponsored links
  9. Hi, I am looking for a Cam Removal Tool for my M10. It is fine if it is homemade, it just needs to work. My budget is around $50; I will send you a PayPal. Thank you, Bob
  10. Hi, I am checking to see if someone has a good used 284 or 292 Cam for an M10B20 motor. My budget for something used would be around $100, but let me know if you have something close and I will consider it. I would probably pay more for a non-regrind so I can save money on eccentrics. Thank you, Bob
  11. Hi Everyone, Quick update: I spoke with someone at IE and they confirmed that the only difference between the early and late M10 cams was the distributor drive gear, and it would be fine for me to use the cam from an early M10 in a late M10 (along with my 123 Distributor intended for the early M10). While I am in there I am going to upgrade to either a 284 or 292 cam, it should help the 32/36, 123, and header combination. Once I get it together I will let everyone know how it goes. Thank you, Bob
  12. Got it. I may have made an incorrect inference from the 123 manual. It references the CW/CCW rotation when setting up the distributor, and it does not seem to discuss it anywhere else, so I thought it was insignificant. Probably another good question for 123. Thank you, Bob
  13. Hi Everyone, Due to a recent engine failure, I am looking for a way to get my car back on the road on a budget. I found an M10B18 locally (from a 1985 318i). I have read on here about the cam gear/distributor differences between the M10B20 that I currently have (1975) and the M10B18. What would be the best way to get my 123 Distributor to work with this later motor? It looks like the cam turns the same direction, but the cam gear is cut differently. I doubt my distributor gear will match the cam. The rotation does not matter to the 123, but the gear seems like it may be an issue. I am open to putting a re-grind from IE in the motor to help with performance. I am curious if I could use the cam from an M10B20 so it provides the correct cam gear. Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you, Bob
  14. Hi, I believe I have a significant engine failure with my current M10, and I am checking to see what is out there. Would anyone have either a running or non-running (but rebuildable) M10? I am trying to keep this under the $2k point; a non-running engine would need to be much lower than that. I am in Minnesota, but could maybe find a way to travel in the region to pick something up. Another option may be crating it. We can figure that out if necessary. Thank you, Bob Bergsgaard
  15. Not yet, but I am going to take a look this weekend. I set the base timing at 8 degrees. The last curve I loaded had a max advance of 30 degrees (so 38 total). I have another post on the FAQ about why I switched to the 123, but the summary is that I was having problems with pinging between 2800 and 4500 RPM that I could not remove without changing the base timing to somewhere ATDC. I eliminated this with the 123 and it ran good, but it is possible that I created detonation in the high-RPM range (I did not hear anything irregular). I will take a look at the plugs tonight. Thank you, Bob
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