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KwikFiVo

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  1. Hi, I am looking for a Cam Removal Tool for my M10. It is fine if it is homemade, it just needs to work. My budget is around $50; I will send you a PayPal. Thank you, Bob
  2. Hi, I am checking to see if someone has a good used 284 or 292 Cam for an M10B20 motor. My budget for something used would be around $100, but let me know if you have something close and I will consider it. I would probably pay more for a non-regrind so I can save money on eccentrics. Thank you, Bob
  3. Hi Everyone, Quick update: I spoke with someone at IE and they confirmed that the only difference between the early and late M10 cams was the distributor drive gear, and it would be fine for me to use the cam from an early M10 in a late M10 (along with my 123 Distributor intended for the early M10). While I am in there I am going to upgrade to either a 284 or 292 cam, it should help the 32/36, 123, and header combination. Once I get it together I will let everyone know how it goes. Thank you, Bob
  4. Got it. I may have made an incorrect inference from the 123 manual. It references the CW/CCW rotation when setting up the distributor, and it does not seem to discuss it anywhere else, so I thought it was insignificant. Probably another good question for 123. Thank you, Bob
  5. Hi Everyone, Due to a recent engine failure, I am looking for a way to get my car back on the road on a budget. I found an M10B18 locally (from a 1985 318i). I have read on here about the cam gear/distributor differences between the M10B20 that I currently have (1975) and the M10B18. What would be the best way to get my 123 Distributor to work with this later motor? It looks like the cam turns the same direction, but the cam gear is cut differently. I doubt my distributor gear will match the cam. The rotation does not matter to the 123, but the gear seems like it may be an issue. I am open to putting a re-grind from IE in the motor to help with performance. I am curious if I could use the cam from an M10B20 so it provides the correct cam gear. Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you, Bob
  6. Hi, I believe I have a significant engine failure with my current M10, and I am checking to see what is out there. Would anyone have either a running or non-running (but rebuildable) M10? I am trying to keep this under the $2k point; a non-running engine would need to be much lower than that. I am in Minnesota, but could maybe find a way to travel in the region to pick something up. Another option may be crating it. We can figure that out if necessary. Thank you, Bob Bergsgaard
  7. Not yet, but I am going to take a look this weekend. I set the base timing at 8 degrees. The last curve I loaded had a max advance of 30 degrees (so 38 total). I have another post on the FAQ about why I switched to the 123, but the summary is that I was having problems with pinging between 2800 and 4500 RPM that I could not remove without changing the base timing to somewhere ATDC. I eliminated this with the 123 and it ran good, but it is possible that I created detonation in the high-RPM range (I did not hear anything irregular). I will take a look at the plugs tonight. Thank you, Bob
  8. Hi Everyone, My car was running so good after I put the 123 Ignition in last night!! I had about 50 miles on it and it started to lose power, followed by some clatter coming from the engine. The temperature did not get too high, according to the 123 App it maybe hit 200 F (I understand this may not be very accurate). The car leaks and burns oil at a good rate, and when I came to a stop I was two quarts low. The motor seized; if I put it in 4th and try to push it nothing moves. The starter will not crank the motor, it just engages and stops. A couple of questions: Does anyone know if the low oil level would cause it to seize? I would assume so, but then again, maybe there are differing opinions. Can anyone think of a particular component that would cause this? My thought is a spun bearing. I am going to start looking for a spare M10 in the Minnesota area to rebuild. If anyone has a lead, please let me know!! Thank you, Bob
  9. The 123 Ignition is in!! I have almost completely tuned out the pinging. I tried a stock M10 advance curve, but the pinging was still present. I pulled out some advance before 4000 RPM, now it is running much better. Throttle response is there, decent power low and high. There are a couple of dead spots when I hit the throttle low, I think I the vacuum curve needs some attention. I am going to drive it tomorrow and continue to tune it. I will post the curve once I have it dialed in. -Bob
  10. Hi Everyone, Quick Update: I purchased some springs from a local auto parts store for a GM HEI distributor. I tried a couple of combinations, but ended up going with the stiffest springs (which appeared to be much strong than my stock springs) and I still had too much advance in the 3000 to 4500 range. At this point, there are so many variables (condition of distributor, springs, weights, de-smogged CA engine, worn engine components), and I need to start fresh. Oh well, I tried. The only other thing I could think of was that the weights were moving too far, and I should somehow limit them (I saw a post on the FAQ about doing this, but decided not to). I am picking up my 123 Ignition from Blunttech tomorrow; I thought about the long-term advantages and decided it was the best path forward. I do not want to cause any major damage from having too much advance, so being able to easily tune the curve should take care of it. I will let everyone know what I end up having to use for a curve. I am very curious what it looks like. Thank you, Bob
  11. Today I removed the distributor and took it apart and see what I could find. There was a nice coating of dirt and oil all throughout the distributor; the vacuum advance components barely moved. I noticed that one advance spring has a longer loop on one end, which I assume is the spring that does not start limiting advance until higher RPMs. However, I noticed that this spring was almost completely ineffective (when I turned the distributor to create advance this spring barely engaged at all). I cleaned everything and made a small modification to the spring mentioned above so that it would engage earlier. When I put it back together and timed it I am still having problems with detonation, but if I keep the vacuum advance disconnected it is not as bad. I might try to see what types of springs I can find online; there is not much available for the Bosch, but I can probably hot-rod it and use something close (I found several spring kits from Summit Racing). However, I am starting to get closer to pulling the trigger on the 123 Ignition. Thank you, Bob
  12. Hi Everyone, Thank you for the feedback. I ended up getting a timing light that I allows me to dial in the advance (very awesome, and should have had one years ago). I am going to check some things out first and explore all of the other options mentioned. It turns out Jeff is only 20 miles from me up here in MN, now I just need to figure out if I should just go with the 123 Ignition or with a rebuild/recurve. I am planning to rebuild the motor and add some mods, so the the ability to tune the 123 Ignition is interesting. Thank you, Bob
  13. Hi!! I have a 1975 2002 and I am having some ignition timing challenges. I understand the go-to answer will be to buy the 123 Ignition, or to have it rebuilt and recurved, but I am trying to do this on a tight budget first to get by for now. The challenge is that my ignition curve is way too aggressive. I do not have the numbers in front of me, but it seems like all of my timing is in before 2000 RPMs. Unless I retard the timing and go a few degrees ATDC the car will ping between 3000 and 4500 RPM under acceleration. When I eliminate pinging by retarding the base timing it will not run above 6000 RPM. The engine is a little tired, and I know cylinders 1 and 4 are low on compression, if that is relevant. I would like to experiment with changing the springs to slow the advance down. Does anyone know where I can get these? Or have any other advice? I have tried every combination of using manifold and ported vacuum with the vacuum advance/retard ports (including having the disconnected, or just one or the other connected) with no success. I believe it all has to do with the mechanical advance. Thank you, Bob
  14. Hi Everyone, I have a 1975 2002 that has the vacuum advance/retard distributor. I put the Pertronix in it, and just rebuilt/re-jetted the carb (jets were from TEP). It is running much better overall, but I cannot get rid of some of the pinging at part throttle (2500 - 4000 RPM). My timing light broke, so I am doing it by ear, which I understand is not the best method, but I am curious as to how I should have the vacuum lines connected, maybe that is the source of my problems. Right now, I have the vacuum advance line connected to the base of my 32/36 (there are two ports side-by-side, I cannot remember which one I have it on). The vacuum retard is capped. I have it de-smogged. I have been retarding the timing (turning distributor clockwise) and it has drastically helped the pining, but now I am losing top-end performance (it has a hard time going past 5500 RPM, probably because there is not enough advance up there). Any thoughts on how I should have the lines connected? Or any other tips on getting this set up? Thank you, Bob
  15. Lol!! Good theory. My first thought was that it was a feature of the smog system, but then the rest of the plugs were normal. I am going to use the BP5ES; it burns some oil, and from what I read on the FAQ is that these are a better option in this situation. Thank you, Bob


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