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ddletendre

Solex
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About ddletendre

  • Birthday 01/23/1997

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  1. Problem is, the car's currently stored for winter, and I can't access it. I'm slowly starting to gather parts for the summer!
  2. Hi, I have recently realized that my driver side rear subframe mount is in rough shape. There are many options out there on the "oem part #" side. My car was built in May 1976. I would like to know which mount to buy, as many numbers seem to overlap. 33331112591 - Rubber mounting left 33331112592 - Rubber mounting right or 33333428100 - Rubber Mounting I might invest in both sides' mounts as if one has failed the other one might be on the way too. I can also be a bit crafty, to if part # 33333428100 has to be "mirrored" to the subframe itself, I might simply drill holes for that. It all depends on price! Thank you!
  3. Does it include shipping within Canada?
  4. Same problem here. Actively looking for the right needle bearing here:
  5. Can't find part number 11211276551 anywhere! Has to be INA F-89013 -- even the supplier changes it for another one... CarQuest sent me another one that is way to loose on the trans. Blunttech doesn't have it stock and charges me $110 for shipping. BMW can't send it to me before 2 weeks. Does anybody have it on a shelf somewhere and willing to ship to Canada? Thanks
  6. Newby question but how do I measure my flywheel? It does not seem to be the diameter. The only size that fits 215mm is the distance between the pegs on it.
  7. Bought a clutch kit from Rockauto and neither the release bearing or the pilot bearing are right (see pictures below) Where can I find a good new release bearing (and fast? I'm in Canada) & a good pilote bearing? Might also have to change the rear main seal & output shaft seal (Between transmission and driveshaft) Thanks!
  8. I can testify that it was a simple master cylinder issue. Just changed mine, 1.5h of work and 130 CAD for a new one (on Rockauto) and the car has never been this good!
  9. Thanks for the info! I'll be sure to take a look!
  10. STORY So I was heading back from my job, and as I pull off, everything feels fine. I take a relatively "steep" downwards hill for a little while. There was a red light so I stopped, and to my surprise I had to pump brakes 2 times for it to completely stop. Everything is fine for like 10 seconds and out of no where the pedal starts pushing further. I was losing brakes. I pulled on the handbrake otherwise I would have ended up on the car in front of me. I got home safe. Looked everywhere around the car, no leaks. TL;DR Pedal sunk to the floor while stopped on downwards hill. Feels like there may be air in the system OR brake booster issues? No leaks, no suspect sounds, nothing. Car not currently safe to drive, and really wish I can solve this fast. Thanks! P.S. If it gets to the point of buying a break booster, do you have any aftermarket parts suggestions that are not too expensive? Thanks again!
  11. 15a 45v? Ain’t that a bit much? It’s 12v right?
  12. I live dangerously 😅 Nah i'm just a bit dumb. I should have done the right thing, yet if drives great! I stuck a big magnet at the bottom of the oil pan, so with the oil moving I guess it'll stick to it, maybe, hopefully.
  13. Hi! I tried to install a new crankshaft pulley but as I was bringing the pulley over the key, I must have been a bit off and it "jumped" behind the crankshaft seal and into the timing chain housing. I spun the engine a few times and heard the key fall in the oil pan (i assume). I ran the engine without any problems, and now the engine runs with no keyway on the pulley, but said pulley is tightened as much as I could. Would there be any efficient and easy way to access the keyway? (without removing the subframe & oil pan) Have you ever had issues with installing a crankshaft pulley? Do you have any recommendation for installing it once I recover it? (glue it in there with something? Is there a tool to prevent it from slipping away?) Thanks!


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