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benzintinte

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Everything posted by benzintinte

  1. No problem! It's tough to say really, there is some room left in the rear, but once you go with an 8 inch wheel the only real way to fit it is to go with an aggressive stretch on your tire. With these specific faces, they are et25 at 7 inches width (1 inch lip, 5.5 inch barrel), and et12 at 8 inches (2 inch lip, 5.5 inch barrel). At that point you're about flush, if not poking slightly, with the fender. If you're going for a more stance oriented build, I know you could certainly accomplish this. I have seen a few 2002s with 8s in the rear. However it requires a lot of massaging, and a stretched tire. If you want, I can take better photos of how the 15x7 with a 195/50 tires to show you how much room is left now.
  2. Hi Eric, Sorry for the delay in response. They are 15x7 et25, using the stock lips and barrels that came with the wheels (5.5" barrels, 1" lips, the face accounts for the last .5"). I'm using 195/50r15 Hankook RS4 tires. Depending on your face model, your results may vary. You can find the number under the waffle cap by the lug holes (it should read like RS001). You can reference it against this list for specs: http://spinfab.net/bbs-model-list-working-file/ Then you can better determine what size barrel/lip you need! Thanks!
  3. Price drop: $220, shipping included to the lower 48. Open to offers, really just want these out of my garage. Happy to answer any questions you may have. Thanks!
  4. I recently swapped my 2002 back to a stock 4x100 pattern, and have some modified hubs I'd like to sell. These were modified by the previous owner of my car in 2014. He welded shut the 4x100 pattern on the stock hubs, and redrilled a 5x120 pattern into it. The studs are all counter sunk in, and slightly longer than stock. He drove on this setup for several years, and I continued to use it for the last few months. This will allow you to run any 5x120 pattern wheel, without having to use wheel adapters that screw up your desired offset. The car was sitting on Pontiac Firebird wheels (pictured below). While the wheels will be for sale, shipping them will cost about $150 or so (without tires). If you are interested in them as well, please let me know and we can discuss logistics. Some more details on the hubs: Removed from a 1973 2002 non-tii 4x100 pattern welded closed 5x120 pattern drilled in Drums are not included, you will need to modify your drums (or discs) in the rear. I have provided photos of the ones these hubs used for reference below. The rotors are not included, and will be removed from the front hubs prior to shipping. I left it on for photos to show they were unmodified. If you are looking to run a 5 lug wheel, this is a very cost effective way to do this. I'm asking $220 shipped to the lower 48. If you are interested, you can message me here or on Instagram (@benzintinte) and I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have! Thanks, Oliver
  5. Catching Up It's been a while since I've updated, as I tend to maintain my StanceWorks build thread a little more diligently. But I wanted to bring my '02 FAQ blog up to speed as well. Since I last posted, I've made some more changes to the car. A couple months back, I took the Roundie to a local show at FourTillFour. The day before, we gave it a very light buff. The results were pretty impressive, given how shot the paint is. You can see the before and after here. After that, the temperatures here in AZ started creeping up pretty rapidly, and I pretty much stopped driving the car. I started looking towards my 4 lug swap so I could run my BBS RSs, and decided a brake upgrade was in order while I was in there. I did some digging, and settled on piecing together my own budget BBK, using Volvo 240 front calipers, VW Mk4 rear calipers and a mix of E21 and Mk1 Golf pieces elsewhere. I ordered what I couldn't source, and pieced together the whole kit. I had the stock rear hubs machined down, so they fit in the rotor top hats, and pressed new studs in. Note how the stock hub does not fit in the rear rotor. Post machining. Took quite a bit of material out of the hub. Excuse the bag, but the hub now fits. So I did all this work, and was set to do the big brake swap and go back to four lug. But after spending a good 15 minutes trying to scrub the grit out of the 240 calipers, I decided to do things right. Instead of throwing grimey parts on my 2002, I'm going to be getting the calipers all powder coated, and rebuild them so they're nice and fresh. In the mean time, I've just left stock equipment on the car, as fortunately I had a back up set of stock front hubs, new stock rotors and pads. I then tackled (finally) finishing the BBS RS rebuild. I had some hiccups with the wheel bolts, my torque wrench had fallen way out of spec. As a result I had over torqued everything, and only realized this when one bolt snapped. In retrospect, I did think it felt like it was taking too much force, but didn't bother to try another torque wrench. So all 120 bolts came back out, and I ordered new hardware. I borrowed a Snap On torque wrench and had them all back together in one evening. I ordered some Hankook RS4s and got them mounted up. The car came with a similarly size (195/50r15) Kumho A/S when I bought it. The M20 pretty easily over powered those tires, and frankly they never were confidence inspiring. The RS4 might be overkill for a street tire, but I like the tread pattern and the additional grip is welcome. Yes, I went overboard with the silicone. I trimmed the excess off later. Upside of daily driving a Fiesta ST, I can haul wheels easily. Then, out of impatience, I started tearing apart the hubs one evening to test fit the wheel. My initial test fit revealed that the stock studs were far too short for my redrilled RSs. I also discovered the the passenger side, rear hub was completely frozen on. It wasn't an ideal situation to be working, Monsoons kept hitting here in Arizona and I work outside. If you look closely, you'll see the nuts barely thread on. It also revealed the rear suspension was far too high. I then struggled with the whole wheel stud situation for a day or two. I knew a needed longer studs, but not too long. Otherwise it would interfere with the BBS waffle. I tried a couple different options, but finally settled on the most ridiculous option. I ordered Ireland Engineering's 70mm studs, and then cut them down to the length I needed. Is this the most efficient way to do things? No, not at all. But it did work, and now the wheels can safely be bolted to the car. Stock vs. IE 70mm studs. Now I have the opposite issue, these are too long for the waffle to fit. Shitty photo, but you can see that they were cut down to spec. Now I was ready to retackle the whole hub swap. The drivers rear, and both the fronts went very smoothly. I was done in no time at all. That frozen rear axle nut remained an issue however. I broke two breaker bars, one ratchet, a pair of vice grips and went through a full tank of MAPP gas, a can and a half of PB Blaster, a half can of Aero Kroil, and bent a metal extension pipe. I was starting to lose faith that I could get that nut off and would have to cut it. After struggling in my driveway for a full day and a half, a friend dropped by with a monster of an impact gun, and zipped it right off. I definitely loosened it for him... There were not photos from this process, because it was largely uninteresting. But afterwards, I took the 2002 for it's first spin on new wheels and took a few photos to celebrate the occasion. Note that I finally attached the missing knee-line trim piece. It's the little things that make a difference. The car drives a million times better. I took some of the pre-load out of the rear suspension, and suddenly it didn't ride like it had 100k springs in it anymore. There is no more wicked wobble in the front end, and the car legitimately has some serious grip with these RS4s. Before the car would roast tires on command, now it just hooks up and scoots. It's not like the M20 is pushing any serious power, but more the all-seasons on it before were just garbage. Up next, I really need to refocus my efforts on the cooling system. I think a bigger radiator, fan and lower temp switch are all in order. I also want to tackle more chassis issues, like the lack of front sway bar, bushings and just basic items like tie-rods and such. The car is so much sharper than it was when I got it, with just a few basic tweaks. I think it has potential to be a really fun canyon car, but I have to make sure it's safely up for the task. For now, I'm just going to enjoy how good this car looks on some shiny BBS RSs.
  6. I'm a big fan of Bristol, it's a very subtle color that works well with 2002s. Looking forward to seeing it all together!
  7. Spent some time poking around my new-to-me '73. Swapped out the steering wheel for a Renown 100, I love the look but it sits a little close to me. I'll likely need to switch to their Monaco to get a little bit more room. I also lowered the coilovers back to where they were. The car was raised before shipping. Never mind the oil drips, didn't come out of my 02. Finally, I installed the Ireland Engineering throttle pedal. Because the car has a G260 swap, the trans tunnel was widened. The stock pedal no longer fit, and pushing just the throttle rod was getting a little annoying. Easy install, no more nubs, and makes a world of difference.
  8. I took delivery last night, and took it for it's first fill up. My friend showed up in his 912 to say hi and check the car out. Ordered a few parts this morning, and will be working on the car this weekend.
  9. That's encouraging to hear! Ultimately the iffy reviews didn't deter me from them obviously, but since I have very limited experience with the company so far I figured I'd share what I learned in research. I'm hoping I never have to contact them for anything though haha. Thanks!
  10. I'm 24, just sorted out my insurance on the new '02. I went with Hagerty, but had to jump through some hoops to get it sorted. I've heard a lot of iffy reviews on their roadside and claims handling, but the price worked out and they were willing to insure the car at a good rate. I'd give them a call and see what they can do. The biggest issue might be being under your parents insurance, Hagerty stressed that you have to have an existing policy in your name. I use Progressive for my daily driver, that was good enough for them.
  11. Thank you! For now, the plan is to drive it and enjoy it. There are a number of small things to address, but the car is so solid out of the gate I feel like I'll leave it mostly as is for the time being.
  12. Just happened to stumble on the ad else where. Messaged the owner, and next thing I knew I had booked a plane ticket to go finalize the sale. Pretty fun adventure!
  13. Thanks all, I ended up purchasing a '73 2002 yesterday. Didn't expect to find a Roundie, but pleased all the same. Marked the thread as sold.
  14. Bought it! Now I have to be patient for it to arrive home. I'm shipping it from NorCal to Phoenix.
  15. I have been, I just figured I'd put a feeler out where ever I could. That car actually got posted since I did my last search this morning! Go figure Thank you!
  16. Hi everyone, I realize this gets posted a lot but I figured it wouldn't hurt to post a feeler out and get my feet wet in the community. I'm looking to buy a 1974+ 2002 (yes, I specifically want a square tail). I'm focusing on finding something without structural rust issues, and is running and driving. Obviously I am not concerned with originality. Manual preferred, but open to auto if the car is solid. I'm open to purchasing a car either here in AZ, or on the West coast and either picking it up or shipping. I'm located in Phoenix, AZ. Looking to spend 6-7k, however I can extend that budget for the right car. PM me with information I also have a 1989 325is as well as a complete S52 swap for that car I'd be willing to trade towards a 2002 for someone interested in doing that as well. You can PM me for me details. Thanks!
  17. benzintinte

    benzintinte

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