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  1. One small blemish that was patched on the left seat pad. Just going in a different direction. 1500 shipped in the CONUS.
  2. I admit I didn't put too much faith in the "It's never the pump" mentality, but I'm starting to come around.
  3. Update - It runs great (for two consecutive days at least). I enlisted some help from Touring Car here in Charlotte. After waiting for their schedule to clear up a bit, they were able to trace most of my issues to an overly worn distributor. Apparently there was tons of play where the dizzy meets the cam, causing the timing to be erratic. As a result, I couldn't really trace any improvement or consistency with my fueling adjustments. They then reviewed the linkage setup and fueling adjustments and the car is a blast to drive. Should have gotten a timing light out , but I'm happy to be enjoying the car now that there's a solid baseline on the mechanical side. Next up will be getting a driver's floorpan in, fixing the gas pedal mount, addressing the sunroof sticking, getting the nose to actually meet the fender again, and seeing why the gas tank feels the need to build pressure now.
  4. Idles fine, free revs fine. Hesitates, backfires, stumbles pretty consistently under load (i.e. above 30% throttle). I'll make you a video in the morning. Still baffled that simply / cleaning the injectors temporarily resolved it, really doesn't make much sense. Car smells rich. Gonna take a look at the afr adjustments tomorrow.
  5. Day 2: Checked the tank screen. Some contaminants present. Flushed the tank and cleaned the screen with carb cleaner and a microfiber. No change in performance. PO had previously redkoted the tank. Disasembled the pressure relief valve on the return line. No real contaminants there, cleaned it anyway. Ran a fuel pressure gauge in lieu of the cold start injector. Rock solid 32 psi on start up and during loaded conditions, including hesitation (no drop in pressure). Shouldn't this rule out any filter/fuel pump/screen issues? This should also validate that the pressure valve is ok? Are my remaining culprits now the pump itself, injectors (debatable since it ran well after cleaning yesterday), or the adjustment? Still someone grabbing at straws for next steps as the issue is so sporadic. Thoughts?
  6. Progress report time. I'm still a little overwhelmed and probably not sticking to the diagnostic document the way I ought to. Based on the PO's recommendation, I pulled the fuel injectors and cleaned them. Got the cores out of 3/4. After leaning on the starter a bit, it fired right up and drove 98% flawlessly for roughly 30-45 minutes. It really pulls well, I think the motor is pretty healthy! I'm hoping I can correctly assume that the pump, injectors and overall adjustments are sound since it ran so well? Order of operations: Pulled the plenum runners Pulled the fuel delivery lines Pulled the KFish inlet banjo (screen has a small tear near the base) Pulled the injectors Cleaned everything, (pb blaster / carb cleaner) and got everything back together. Car managed to put a huge smile on my face for 30 minutes, and then began stumbling periodically again : ( I'm at your mercy, thoughts? Anything look out of place in the bay?
  7. I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that. The PO said he'd had short lived luck every time he would clean the system filters, so I'm trying that along with the injectors today.
  8. After years of E30's (among other things), I got a line on a very well priced, running and driving 1974 2002tii. I inspected as best I could, paid the man and took her home. I'd like to bring this car up to a "solid driver" standard, which will include rust repair, a repaint, interior refresh, and addressing any mechanical issues. I'd like to keep modifications to a minimum and just enjoy the car as it was designed, but I'm sure there will be some exceptions. My previous automotive endeavors: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=340688 I'll be looking to you guys for some pointers / general direction on a few key items, but for now, the to-do list: Chassis: Overall Panel Fitment is poor (trunk rubbing, alignment, doors don't close well). I'd like to make any adjustments prior to stripping/inspecting for rust. Known rust in the trunk, nose panel and driver's floorboard. I'll likely need a new panel for the floor, the trunk will need to be fabricated. The nose panel will be interesting. I believe there is some rust near the headlight buckets, but nothing external. However, the lower part of the valence does seem thoroughly done. I'd like to replace this lower section entirely with an aftermarket unit if possible, open to suggestions. Sunroof is very tight while moving. This will need to be resolved prior to paint/disassembly. Overall front panel alignment with the fenders and hood is poor. This section may need replacing, any suggestions or input is very appreciated! PAINT! This will include stripping numerous areas to make sure rust isn't present. PO did a good job in the fender wells and roof, but didn't address the floor or trans tunnel. New window seals will be needed throughout. Interior: Carpet is done, needs replacing Door panels have been screwed on , will need replacing as well. Seats should be salvageable, would like to redye to a single black color. Console was made by the PO, would like to find an OE solution or delete entirely. New steering wheel will be needed. Dash is cracked, will need replacing or mending. HVAC is missing/nonfunctional? Need to investigate. Mechanical: KFish is contributing to a pretty consistent stutter under high load. Need to investigate. Distributor may not be original, any hints folks? Fuel Gauge is not operating. Possible grounding/wiring issues throughout the car. I've seen folks around here save much rougher cars than this one, it just seems to have too much potential to throw away. BMW Archives confirmed it as an original tii based on the VIN. The original color was Turkis, that's what it will go back to. Engine bay/trunk/undercarriage/floor will all get POR15'd and remain black. Outside of the bodywork, my main dilemma is with the tii mechanical injection system. If this miss proves to be something that requires serious effort / $$$, how much will I hurt the cars value by going to a nicely implemented aftermarket EFI system (i.e. megasquirt) and a set of ITB's? Are tii's worthless without the KFish system? How original should I stay given that this won't be a rotisserie restoration? Looking forward to hearing your thoughts. As she sits;
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