Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

5 Neutral

1 Follower

About slowpoke

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. yeah, total bummer.... but these things happen. i'll check the head more when i get a chance. you can paypal me back for the pistons.
  2. So, just got the parts. head looks fine (initial cursory inspection), but pistons look destroyed. I suspect shipping damage. some of the rings are no longer free to move in their grooves, and some of the nicks seem really deep. Am i over reacting or are these pistons shot? the head bolts were rattling around in the box when i opened it. surprisingly at least a couple of the pistons were wrapped pretty well. thanks.
  3. Oh, also, what kind of shape is the valve train? a Norris 301, I heard that a shrink 304 needs double springs, etc.
  4. What diameter pistons? You said the block needs to be bored. im interested.
  5. Whoa. this is almost the same as what i'm thinking about building... how's it going? i'd love to pick your brain and use it to refine my approach! Kyle
  6. Awesome! Thanks for the insight. I had an old Alfa GTV w/ a mechanical Tach and that thing pulsed like crazy. I’ll check the ground. Hopefully that’s all it is.
  7. Last night during a blast up the mountain my tach wavered then died. Is it a mechanical tach? If so, then i think the cable broke. That sound reasonable? Then, insult to injury, the associated tach light bulb burned out. That’s a dash module pull? Let me know if i should be on the lookout for anything as a dig into it. thanks.
  8. Hey Ace, if i was going for a 90% pure track car, what numbers would i be looking for? I remember looking at the IE site and their “best handling setup” said something like 350# springs. I’m willing to go that stiff, i just don’t want to flare the wheel wells. They still look really good w/ no rust and i can bring myself to cut them. So i live w/ smaller tires.
  9. How stock do you want to go? I’ve got a stock suspension w/ i think Eibach springs up front on stock perches. Aftermarket springs in back. We could swap?
  10. general questions on front suspension: a) are they Tii struts or non-tii? b) do we know what the spring rate for the coilovers? c) how do we know if the strut is solid (no cracks, etc. etc...) do people magnaflux these things? if i'm doing track days its something i'd like to know... d) these don't appear to have camber / caster plates associated w/ them. they bolt into stock location? e) status of shocks - have you driven on the shocks? i've got a 1969 1600, and per AceAndrew would be willing to figure out what works for you. my car is on its way to being a mostly dedicated track car. whew. lots of questions. thanks,
  11. How’s the 123 treating you? I’m thinking of that as well. What are the specs on your engine if i may ask?
  12. I’d do the front rear suspension if the first guy doesn’t want the whole shebang. Im Bay Area and could pick up.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.