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Johnny Riviera

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About Johnny Riviera

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  1. I’ll take them if halboyles falls through.
  2. What additional effort? Here was my experience with Longstone: Me: 4 CN36’s please Longstone: Ok My porch a week later: Look boss, Tires!
  3. The light really made it pop, almost made my numbers look photoshopped in.
  4. +1 on the 185/70 CN36 Pirelli on a 5.5 rim. Have them on E21 Basketweaves and love them. Surprising amount of grip. And as others have said, Longstone is great to deal with.
  5. Oh, I have no class! I run with a local group (Bridge City Autosports) and mainly run in their NFP not for points class, mainly for my own enjoyment and to show vintage iron can still get it done. I’d love to run a SCCA HCS or HCR (Heritage Classic Street and Race) but nobody seems to run those classes. I would love to see more old iron autocrossing, but the times I’ve posted or mentioned to friends, I have received little interest. That said, next weekend I am planning to go out to one one McMinneville Oregon if anyone is interested.
  6. I do like the current ride height, so yes that would matter. I thought I saw a pic of Blunt’s car with the springs, and thought it sat similar, maybe a touch lower in front. Perhaps he lopped off a bit of spring. I don’t want the car to sit higher, so maybe I should look more at camber and roll center mods. Or maybe I just need to bite the bullet on coilovers. Below is a a pic of me with a fair amount of lean. I can also see it riding on the outside of the driver front.
  7. I’ve seen them. I was under the impression that I couldn’t run them with 13” wheels.......and I love the look of my 13x6’s with 205/60 Toyo RA-1’s. I have thought of the Bavaria arms. I’ve read that running the Bavaria tension arms fix the wheel placement. Is your underlying thought that changing to the stage II springs wouldn’t help much?
  8. Thanks for the info! My bar is the one with a different pivot point than stock. Roll does seem to be upsetting my contact patch, looking at the wear on my tires. I know camber correction would help as my car is already a bit lowered. I have fixed camber plates, but to go with adjustable plates it seems a smaller diameter spring would be in order to take advantage. That means coilovers which currently are not in the budget. My thinking is limiting body roll would mean less suspension travel, therefore less camber change. Also less weight transferred onto outer front wheel in turns. Is any of that sound reasoning?
  9. IE bars. I can go a little stiffer on adjustment, but was told by others here that springs were going to help more than adjustment of bar. I was told that was more for fine tuning balance and under/oversteer. I'm in the middle hole on the front bar now I am far from an expert on suspension, but always looking to learn. Thank you, John
  10. Hello all, Did some searching, couldn't find a good answer. I have Bav Auto with Billy Sports now, Still have a bit more body roll autocrossing than I'd like. Are the stage II's stiffer? More linear? Ride quality is not my prime objective. Thanks in advance, John
  11. Also, the reason the Porsche (and VW) have those “caps” is to seal the hole and not let precious cooling air escape. They do nothing to hold it on.
  12. Thought of the above post at first. They do take a bit to make sure they are on. I have been happy with Kingsborne wires. They are still the Bakelite type, but Commuting or autocross, no problems for me. http://kingsborne.com/
  13. Unless you can tell me which part needs to be welded. Was it welded on the car you took it off of? Not trying to be difficult, I honestly don’t understand.
  14. I’m confused. If they need to be welded in place, then that would imply that something was cut off the previous car, or is still on there. I’ll have to see if I can do some research.
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