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jimbojames

Kugelfischer
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  1. Hehe, funny you should ask- I just got done redoing the whole thing (bearings, all brake components, etc) The bolt looked firmly seated and I didn't give it a second thought at the time. (hindsight and all that...)
  2. Threads were all screwed up and I should have spun ‘em clean before trying to thread the nut on. Excessive torque without compressing it together at the same time was the fatal error. I’ll tack it, back it off, clean up the threads and go again. Thanks for the replies.
  3. The "knurled bolt" (#5) shown here is lose and spinning free on one wheel https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2552-USA-01-1971-114-BMW-2002&diagId=33_0886 Do I have to take the whole hub apart or is there a trick to re-seat it? Thought about: disassemble completely and pound it back in and/or replace it wedge something in there to apply inward force to try and get grip small tack weld I could grind off once it is seated Ideas? Thanks
  4. jimbojames

    jimbojames

  5. Welcome Brandon! Looks like you have a nice spot to work on your new project. I think you'll find the community here is very helpful. Either way on that paint, it looks wanting for some attention Guess it depends on what your plan for the car are.
  6. Just marked as "Sold", which I assume is the correct thing to do for want ads as well?
  7. Looking for a (working) brake booster for a '71 base model (non-tii). Shipping would be to Seattle area.
  8. That is hugely helpful, thank you; I wondered why there was no return. Based on your description, it sounds like I have the high-pressure pump since it has the metal housing. Here's two additional pictures. Unfortunately, that must mean my sender is not compatible
  9. I used a rotary tool to try and "open it open a little" and it seems hopeless.. If I open it up too far it's going to leak. I'll probably order a new fuel pump.
  10. EFI conversion... I purchased what was supposedly a 318i replacement fuel pump on eBay and I can't seem to fit my level sending unit onto it. It lines up 95% of the way but I don't want to force too hard it since the sending units are expensive and seem a little fragile. It seems like the hole tolerances are just crappy. Any suggestions? Maybe I'm doing something stupid?
  11. Thanks for all the responses. It has to be the lack of weight like most of you have said. I disconnected the stabilizers, rolled it around and loosened all the joints and it's the same. I'll hope for the best after full reassembly or I could change up my plans and turn it into a rally car
  12. Good to know. The install is temporary just so I can roll it around without a dolly, but just surprised me I'll definitely do as you described for final torque on everything. Maybe I'll loosen some of the bushings a bit more just to test.
  13. I just installed IE stage 1 springs with Bilstein HD’s front and rear. This is my first 2002 build, so I’m not sure what height to expect when the car to totally stripped down. Perhaps someone has some experience with this? Just looking for reassurance I haven’t done anything wrong; expected it to sit lower even empty. Currently it’s just the body (no glass, no hood) + front and rear subframe assemblies. Thanks!
  14. Update: Re-tapped four of them at original size to clear out rust and fouled threads Inserted a small shim made from scrap sheet metal into one to keep it from spinning Had to cut one of them out and will replace with new nut It seems like the metal "cage" that hold the nuts can simply bend out of shape if too much force is applied to it. If you look at the photo you can kind of see that one of the walls of the cage has bent so it's not at 90 degrees anymore. Thanks for the suggestions.
  15. The tap is a good idea, but some spin freely unfortunately.


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