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jimbojames

Kugelfischer
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  1. Looking for a (working) brake booster for a '71 base model (non-tii). Shipping would be to Seattle area.
  2. That is hugely helpful, thank you; I wondered why there was no return. Based on your description, it sounds like I have the high-pressure pump since it has the metal housing. Here's two additional pictures. Unfortunately, that must mean my sender is not compatible
  3. I used a rotary tool to try and "open it open a little" and it seems hopeless.. If I open it up too far it's going to leak. I'll probably order a new fuel pump.
  4. EFI conversion... I purchased what was supposedly a 318i replacement fuel pump on eBay and I can't seem to fit my level sending unit onto it. It lines up 95% of the way but I don't want to force too hard it since the sending units are expensive and seem a little fragile. It seems like the hole tolerances are just crappy. Any suggestions? Maybe I'm doing something stupid?
  5. Thanks for all the responses. It has to be the lack of weight like most of you have said. I disconnected the stabilizers, rolled it around and loosened all the joints and it's the same. I'll hope for the best after full reassembly or I could change up my plans and turn it into a rally car
  6. Good to know. The install is temporary just so I can roll it around without a dolly, but just surprised me I'll definitely do as you described for final torque on everything. Maybe I'll loosen some of the bushings a bit more just to test.
  7. I just installed IE stage 1 springs with Bilstein HD’s front and rear. This is my first 2002 build, so I’m not sure what height to expect when the car to totally stripped down. Perhaps someone has some experience with this? Just looking for reassurance I haven’t done anything wrong; expected it to sit lower even empty. Currently it’s just the body (no glass, no hood) + front and rear subframe assemblies. Thanks!
  8. Update: Re-tapped four of them at original size to clear out rust and fouled threads Inserted a small shim made from scrap sheet metal into one to keep it from spinning Had to cut one of them out and will replace with new nut It seems like the metal "cage" that hold the nuts can simply bend out of shape if too much force is applied to it. If you look at the photo you can kind of see that one of the walls of the cage has bent so it's not at 90 degrees anymore. Thanks for the suggestions.
  9. The tap is a good idea, but some spin freely unfortunately.
  10. Several of the captive nuts in my hood are fouled up one way or another... rusted, stripped, broken bolts in them, etc. Does anyone have suggestions for replacing them? Perhaps a different fastener solution altogether? My first thought was to cut out a rectangle and fabricate a new plate. If someone has done something similar I'd love to hear what worked / didn't work. Thanks!
  11. Thanks everyone. I checked Real OEM with my year (71) and got the same result shown (not named). I'm guessing I can do without it. I can't imagine what it would be used for since the oil seal seems to do all the work keeping the oil contained. If it leaks I guess I'll know what the cause is :D
  12. Hello, I'm in the process of reassembling the bottom end of my M10. The guide I'm using mentions fitting a new 'O' ring seal to the front face of the crank sprocket when installing the Woodruff key (see attached). I don't remember or have any notes pertaining to this o-ring and have not heard anyone else mention it in various reassembly guides. Since this is my first time rebuilding this type of motor I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. I have the sprocket on and the key in position- I also have the front and rear seals ready to go, but I'm curious about this o-ring mentioned. Any advice much appreciated!
  13. https://offerup.co/xeGNRvRQeN free local pickup (Seattle area) Message me on offer up or forum direct message. Would love to have it gone today.
  14. Thanks for the cleaning suggestion. After cleaning off the tops, it's clear they are 89 96 pistons and my bore measurements were wrong. After recalibrating, cylinders are already at ~90 mm (apx). I don't know if I trust my gauge enough to test for ovality, etc so I'm not sure what to do.
  15. Sorry, wrong one. Try this: https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/media-global-&-europe/products-and-services/engine_components/classicline_2017_18.pdf Search M10B20 to find the area I referenced.


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