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jimbojames

Kugelfischer
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  • Website URL
    http://instagram.com/roundie02

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA USA
  • Interests
    Cars, mobile app dev, embedded electronics, gardening, family stuff.

    On Instagram as #jamesmjacoby and #roundie02

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  1. Looking for a fan / blower switch for my '71. It requires the rotary-style switch (not the pull out kind) with 6 terminals on the back. Attached a picture of similar from another post. Shipping to Seattle, WA, USA area. Thanks for looking!
  2. Brilliant! That was it! Lights function normally and engine stops when it should. I could hug you John
  3. Yes, 12 fuse. Might also be worth mentioning that the parking lights are not affected. They stay on.
  4. Hello, '71 here. I recently re-installed my wiring harness and so far it has gone smoothly for the most part. Starts and run fine, accessories work, etc. However, there is one major oddity. When the key is turned to "run" the headlights shut off. I can also turn the headlights on with the ignition off; is that normal? Additionally, the engine continues to run when the key is moved to "stop". It seems like I may have swapped something in the fusebox and/or ignition and it's causing power to backfeed and/or cutout out in this strange way. I've checked the other ignition threads on wiring and I think I have the ignition switch correct. Looking for advice on common fusebox errors or where else to look. Thanks!
  5. It's in the original picture, but here's a closeup with a coin for size reference.
  6. I'm selling the (original) black vinyl for the upper and lower rear bench from a '71. The rear has a small hole in the center-rear section, but otherwise both are in good condition. No other cracks or holes. Estimate $20-40 shipping in US or local pickup is fine too.
  7. Seconding Midnight Motorsports, though he's been a little difficult to get ahold of lately. Anyone heard from him?
  8. This is the crank mechanism that rotates the driver's side quarter vent window. Thanks!
  9. Update 2: Turns out after all that the actual culprit was a bad relay cable. Two of the wires in the DB37 cable were swapped. Never trust anything you buy, hehe. Also- for anyone else troubleshooting no rpm- make sure you can read 12v at tach-in on the board when key is in run position.
  10. I'm replacing the seals on my 4-speed and the kit I have came with a number of paper gaskets as well. I suspect the large gasket between the two halves is leaking... Can I simply undo the bolts around the rear to remove the rear half with out getting "too far" into it or requiring any specialized procedures? The manual says I have to remove the input shaft bearing. Is that true or are they explaining that part only because it's in the context of doing a full re-build? If I do need to pull the input bearing, I assume that means I'll need a new one, perhaps some other new parts as well? Thanks!
  11. Update: advice from msextra forum is to follow the hardware instructions for the updated firmware and to use the VR input circuit NOT the opto circuit (which contradicts the manual I was following ಠ_ಠ ). I'll report back after making this hardware change for posterity
  12. Yup... posting over there today. Thanks guys!
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