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About jimbojames

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  1. Update: advice from msextra forum is to follow the hardware instructions for the updated firmware and to use the VR input circuit NOT the opto circuit (which contradicts the manual I was following ಠ_ಠ ). I'll report back after making this hardware change for posterity
  2. Yup... posting over there today. Thanks guys!
  3. It basically says that you should only use the alternative in rare circumstances.
  4. Also, here's my Ignition settings. The instructions given don't line up 1:1 with the latest version of Tuner Studio, so maybe something isn't right? They say to do the following: Trigger offset = 0° (this will vary slightly, depending on the wheel/pickup configuration), Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge', ('Falling Edge' for MicroSquirt® only if using the VR input circuit - not recommended), Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated', Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS', Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)', ('Going High (Inverted)' for MicroSquirt). Trigger Wheel Teeth to '0' (zero)
  5. Thanks for the honest feedback and thoughtful response. Yes, my soldering could use a little love and checking for bridges is a good idea. I’ve been over 50a so many times I’ve lost count It’s a V3 board. FWIW, Earlier today I followed some advice from the diyautotune forum and tested the isolator and it is working properly- emits 5v when pin 24 is grounded and 0v when12v is applied. Almost temped to just buy an assembled version and chalk this one up to education. I’ll check it light you mentioned and we’ll see.
  6. Maybe I’ll try another sensor just to rule it out.
  7. I've been troubleshooting a "no rpm" issue for a couple of days and I've run out of ideas. Here is the scenario: I have a MS2 v3 with Ford EDIS + VR / Toothed wheel. The issue is that Tuner Studio does not see any RPM signal in logger, no engine speed in gauges. I have done the following: - Followed and checked many times the assembly instructions for the "step 50, hall / optical" circuit - Tried both polarities on the VR sensor - Have measured with a scope and can see square wave (PIP) from EDIS, connected to pin 24 on relay board (0 - 12v range) - Configured TunerStudio for EDIS, etc following instruction here http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm I have a couple suspects and wondering if someone can confirm some things... > First, it's not 100% clear to me where the label on the PCB is referencing for optoout, see annotation #2 in image. Did I do this correctly?: "jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink" > Last, for troubleshooting, I wired a test jumper to pin 1 of the opto (#4). Shouldn't I see a square wave here since that is the purpose of (#1) to take the tach signal from pin 24 and send it to the isolator? Thanks for any any ideas... just need something new to try ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  8. Amazing! That was it. Thanks a million!
  9. Actually, no- that’s a good point. I’ll hook a length of battery wire from the block to the frame and report back.
  10. Getting to the point in my ‘71 02 EFI conversion where I’m testing turning the engine over. However, something is causing the brown D- wire from the alternator to get very hot and smoke when I crank the engine. I can have the key in any other position and use accessories, lights, etc with no issues. I have temporarily disconnected all EFI components to try and narrow it down, but no luck. Could this be caused by a bad voltage regulator? Is there a common wiring mistake I may have made? Any other troubleshooting tips? Much thanks!
  11. Hehe, funny you should ask- I just got done redoing the whole thing (bearings, all brake components, etc) The bolt looked firmly seated and I didn't give it a second thought at the time. (hindsight and all that...)
  12. Threads were all screwed up and I should have spun ‘em clean before trying to thread the nut on. Excessive torque without compressing it together at the same time was the fatal error. I’ll tack it, back it off, clean up the threads and go again. Thanks for the replies.
  13. The "knurled bolt" (#5) shown here is lose and spinning free on one wheel https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2552-USA-01-1971-114-BMW-2002&diagId=33_0886 Do I have to take the whole hub apart or is there a trick to re-seat it? Thought about: disassemble completely and pound it back in and/or replace it wedge something in there to apply inward force to try and get grip small tack weld I could grind off once it is seated Ideas? Thanks

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