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Gearbox

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Everything posted by Gearbox

  1. I recently sent a set to the UK, Middlesex, and the cost was $60 but may vary slightly dependant on your location. But if you buy 2 sets or more, the cost per set goes down considerably. Let me know, Cheers Allan
  2. Yes, let me know if you would like a set.
  3. Thank you for the kind words. I've obtained a NOS perfect Rear Turbo spoiler to copy but still have a number of splits to sell before I have the room to store another run of product. Problem is having to work overseas for 6 months out of the year, and then when I am home, all my time is spent packaging and making post office runs every day lol. But it will happen. I am scheduled back in two weeks and intend to make another push on the splits and hopefully exhaust the supply I have and free up my spare bedroom where I am storing them. It may not be very soon, but it will happen. Hang in there and thanks for the support.
  4. Me too lol. Main reason I made them. Great addition to any 02. Post pics when installed on your car. Thanks Allan
  5. Great, Thanks guys fantastic information. :D
  6. Since my shipping will not until be until Monday, I will honor the FREE shipping to the contiguous 48 states until Sunday night 12 PM EST. Thanks all, you made this a very fun venture, Cheers Allan
  7. Quick question. I am building a 76 02 with the 318is EFI/Megasquirt and want to run an external Bosch Fuel pump with aluminum feed and return lines. Can I use 3/8" ID rubber FI hoses along with 3/8" OD aluminum fuel lines with a 0.30" ID or would that be too restrictive? Also what is the common solution for the return line to the tank? I am not with the car right now and forget if the tank has a provision for a return line, I don't think so as it was a normally aspirated system prior. If so, is there an easy swap with an E30 pickup/sending unit that would just bolt into the tank if the tank was not a tii? Thanks for the help.
  8. Thank you all for the great support. Last week in the month left for FREE shipping. Get yours before they are all gone.
  9. Yes I do! ANd the Free shipping for June is still available if funds sent via Pay Pal as "Friends and Family" (no PP fees) if shipped within the 48 contiguous states. I will PM you instructions. Thanks Allan
  10. No, they normally are not painted, well at least not back in the day. But now with Plastic dip in a spray can, I guess you can if you are able to find the right color.
  11. Thank you! Now if I can recover some of my investment on these, which I have no delusions that will be coming anytime soon, I'm planning on making those NLA rear Turbo Spoilers as it will use the same rubber and adhesives that I had thoroughly investigated and tested or maybe something simpler like the NLA license plate lenses. The fun just never stops lol. Thank you again for the support, Cheers Allan
  12. Ignorance is only when you don't ask so no need for apologies. The wind splits creates a high pressure zone as the air flows over the car at speed. This was an old racing trick in the 70's. As a result, it will create downforce to improve handling in high speed turns. But honestly, I just like the way it looks on the car lol.
  13. Haven't had the chance yet, but here are a few pics I found on the web that are using the Posany splitters and they look exactly like these. The splitters are about 38" long. Hope this gives you an idea on how they should look on your car. Thanks
  14. These are modeled after the most popular wind splits made back in the day by Posany. The Zenders are very close to the shape and size, but I didn't want to drill holes in my hood nor did I think anyone else wanted to either. The Formulings were also a adhesive application and the "Formuling" logo looked really cool. But I didn't care for the shape as it was too thin and low and looked a bit odd on the car IMHO. So I decided that the Posany was the best overall. As for the adhesive, I tested numerous brands and types and found that the 3M VHB was the best for long term hold, UV and Heat resistance without harming the paint should you ever need to remove them. Sideways wind pressure was tested to over 200 mph with no failures and we ran the test mule through over 50 automated car washes (the ones with the polyester spinning brushes) with no ill effects. So, as long as you want them on the car, it will stay put. Hope this answers your questions. Thanks Allan
  15. Don't you hate it when a part becomes NLA and prices for the few remaining items become insanely expensive? Well I do, but I really wanted these splitters for my restoration so I found one that was advertised as "NOS and BRAND NEW". The cost was $300 plus and then there was the shipping from Australia of another $75. Unfortunately, while never used, they were bent, warped, deteriorated, and cracked. So disappointed and completely unusable. I still wanted these, so I bit the bullet and and commissioned the tooling to make brand new ones. But not just copies, but better than the originals. While looking identical to the period correct splitters in size and shape, I tested a numerous number of modern UV resistant rubbers, finishes, and densities. In addition, I went through all the 3M adhesives available to ensure the best long term bonding solution. And after months of trial and error, endless testing under all conditions, I believe I have put together the perfect combination. UV and solvent resistant, can withstand the full range of temperatures that any car surface will undergo, and unmatched long term holding power, but easily removed without damage to properly painted cars or the splitters using WD40 and a bit of care. The Splitters are packaged well, in a two compartment coagulated box, Poly wrapped, with a 12pt card sleeve. The finish is a beautiful satin matt black that reacts well to most any silicon or rubber preservatives. Overall, I am extremely happy on how they turned out and they will look at home on the finest Concours cars to the fastest Race Cars. And for those who asks what do they do? The technical answer is that it creates a high pressure area as the air is directed over the car at speed thus creating downforce. But I just like the way they look lol. I am offering these at $150 per set which I believe to be fair and more importantly, get these Long NLA splitters into the hands of fellow community members who always wanted them or have even thought of wanting them. I made enough just to cover costs, so once they are gone, I doubt I will run a second batch but rather be on to my next project. And for the month of June, if you PP me as "friends and family", I will ship FREE of charge to the 48 contiguous States via USPS Priority Mail. International orders are welcomed, but will be charged for either UPS or FedEx at the best rate I could find unless otherwise directed and agreed to by the buyer. I am also so confident in the fit, function, look, and feel of these splitters that anyone who does not like them for any reason I will happily refund your money, no questions asked, if returned in unused new condition. But I think you will be like me and fall in love with them as the quality and feel truly shows through. Thank you Allan My PP account is Gearbox22@Gmail.Com Please enter your shipping address and email in the notes. FREE shipping for "friends and family" payments or if you cover the PP fees under Goods and Services.
  16. Thank you, and you will have the first set. I will be posting shortly with better descriptions and pictures. But they came out better than OEM. They are made from the same type of Rubber as the rear Turbo spoiler, but with modern UV resistant rubber and the latest 3M tape. I made a few changes to ensure that they will be robust, but identical to the original Posany design which was the most popular back in the day. And yes, they are usually black and I had never seen them painted.
  17. Hi Mike; Thank you and you are reading my mind. 3D printing is a boon to the hobby, but it does have limitations. And those NLA Hella lamps are on my to do list, but not as a 3D printed part. I even bought a NOS one for $150 to copy. But the only way to correctly do them would be to cast them out of resin (painfully slow and not always perfect) or just bite the bullet and commission tooling to have them properly plastic injected. The cost of tooling is daunting, but it has not stopped me in the past. Actually, I just had the tooling made for those Wind Splitters that were on the E9 and E10 race cars back in the day which I will be making available to the community this week. So, despite not having the faintest of fantasies of recovering all my costs, I would like to recover some before I venture into the next project. So yeah, I will have them available eventually. The VDO gauges came in two types, type 1 are the ones made in the 60's and 70's and have a bezel that can be removed easily. If you look at the back of the bezel, you will see tabs on the bezel and casing. All you have to do is to rotate the bezel to line up the tabs and the bezel will come off. I find WD40 helps a lot and maybe some slight prying with a thin screwdriver to loosen the decades of dirt and grime. The type 2 is more difficult if not impossible as it is crimped on at the factory. Even if you were extremely careful prying them off, you will never get it back on again and have the gauge look right. The two gauges I had were type 2 and what I did was to cut the casing about 1/2" below the bezel to salvage them. Given that both gauges were different diameters, 52mm and 60mm, I made a sleeve to adapt both sections together. I guess you can mate the two halves of the casing back with epoxy after painting the needles. Plastic casings would be easier, but the metal ones will require a thin steel band to reinforce the part. And yes, searched forever for the right color and finish for the dash cluster paint. Closest I found was this MTN Rojo Claro Light Red in a Matt finish that replicates the Turbo dash. I'm playing around with a number of undercoat colors to dial it just right. But it looks good right out of the can. Nice matt finish and the color is pretty close based on all the pictures I have collected. My name is Allan and I am a restoration junkie. Someone please help me.
  18. Going down the road with a Turbo tribute build on my 76 Polaris. Have gotten all the rust issues resolved and now working on the body and suspension. Engine is being rebuilt and will have a 318is EFI controlled by a Megasquirt and eventually a Turbo. While I was able to get most of the body flares and dams from IE and scored a NOS OEM rubber spoiler from Rogerstii, the one remaining part I was not able to find was the Turbo gauge pod and boost gauge. After searching exhaustively, I decided just to build one. Armed with all the pictures I could find I drew up some CAD drawings and set out on my 3D printer. Needless to say it took a number of attempts as the pod had so many angles and curves that I needed to get right. I didn't have a real one to copy, but from the angles of the pictures I had, it was as close as I could get. The Kienzel clock was the standard tii clock and are still available used, but at a cost. But this still left me with finding or making the Boost gauge. I searched at naesium with no luck in finding a used one or one that VDO made as an aftermarket gauge. The problem was the size, the BMW version was 60mm to match the clock but most all of the VDO gauges were in the 52mm size. But expanding my search I found a Volvo 240 turbo gauge that had the same mechanism I was looking for, but it was too a 52mm gauge made by VDO. And most of the 60mm gauges VDO makes are for either tractors or boats. I found a new VDO 32V Voltmeter for 19 bucks on eBay and gave it a shot. Both gauges were the type 2 which means that the bezels are crimped on at the factory and cannot be removed without damage. So, I Dremeled the casings in half on both gauges to salvage the bezel and glass off the 60mm gauge and the mechanism and rear casing of the boost gauge. In order to mate the two halves, I 3D printed a sleeve which slipped into the bezel side and then the mechanism can slip into the back. The Volvo needle was orange so it needed to be painted white. I had to draw out the face of the gauge in Photoshop which I copied from pictures and then printed it out on Matt vinyl with adhesive backing. Overall the pod and gauge came out well and looks pretty OEM. Not bad for just going on some pictures lol. I'm sure not many will go to the lengths I have, but it was a raining weekend and I had nothing better to do. Hopefully this may give some of you some ideas. The fun just never stops with these cars :D BTW the last picture is one I got off the web that I copied from.
  19. Thanks Mike, good to know, and if you hear a sigh of relief from the other side of the world, that will be me, I just bought a 400mm wheel for my 73 tii from Germany before knowing that they came in different sizes lol. Love this forum. Cheers Allan
  20. Yeah, that was me. I had been looking for the correct plastic wheel for some time in good condition, but they all were either terribly cracked or missing horn buttons. But it was the first time I saw the indented wheel and liked it, it looked like it had no cracks or damage, and it wasn't going for $500. So, I took a shot and bought it. Good to know that it belongs on a 70 or 71. And wouldn't you know it, soon as I bought it, a listing came up on the German eBay site for a near perfect and correct wheel for my car. Well almost correct, it has the chrome trim around the horn buttons, so I think it was from a Bavaria or 3.0CS or something. But close enough and I bought that as well. Now all I need is a 70 or 71 tii so I can use the other wheel lol. The fun just never stops with these cars BTW, where are these date stamps located?
  21. Wonderful information being uncovered here, thank you. But now I'm going to circle back to one of my original questions. Since the indented wheel was in fact a wheel for the US market made by, or for, BMW, what cars did they come on as original equipment? And I'm a bit surprised as it being the more common as from spending a few hours googling steering wheels, I see the plastic cover wheel first and foremost, then the open steel spokes, and of the hundreds of photos I viewed, I had only found 2 of the indented ones. So, these indented wheels were on delivered US cars?
  22. Steve; Thank you so much for clearing that up. You knowledge continues to astound me, you should really write a book before all these stories gets lost in time. I've seen so many of the second wheel in these cars and all of them had the identical horn pushes, so the empirical answer was that they were all factory BMW wheels. It's funny how the Porsche guys could recite the markings for every nut and bolt all throughout the years and just trying to find out what was original on our cars is like pulling teeth lol. So, just to get this crystal clear, none of the other wheels were originally sold on any 02 and was sold as an aftermarket wheel, yes? Thank you again, Allan
  23. It's just the angle of the photo, but the first picture is your wheel. And when I say rubber, I grouped it in that plastic category rather than leather or metal. But yes, the first picture is what most 73tii pictures I've seen, but I do see a lot of the second picture as well. Just looking for where the variations come from as they, as I believe, are all Factory BMW wheels.
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