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2000Touring

Solex
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Everything posted by 2000Touring

  1. Love the design! I'm also interested in a pair
  2. Thank you for your response. They are made in Bologna, Italy. The stamps say "TIPO 40DCOE72" and "TIPO 40DCOE73" and they both show this number: "№ 3G 06". The internet says they might come from some Alfa 2000cc engine. Read some topics on this forum saying you better not take the vacuum from it for the distributor because it will only give small pulses. I'm also using a 123ignition and some people suggest capping the vacuum port on the 123ignition. Think I will do that in the first place to see how things work out.
  3. Forgot to say that there are 4 holes. So each of the throttle houses has them. Don't think it makes sense if it is a vacuum hole.
  4. Hello enthousiasts, I'm currently rebuilding a pair of DCOE's for my Touring but I lost one screw that I cannot seem to identify. Also checked online but the DCOE's I see online are a bit different from mine. I still have 3 of these screws so I also attached a pic of one of those. Hope you guys can help me identify the screw so I can order a new one. Thanks in advance!
  5. Thanks for the warning, Tom. Good to keep that in mind.
  6. Woohooo! We've got a spark! Wow, what a difference if you compare it to my old ignition. Very happy! Thank you all for the suggestions
  7. Thanks Simeon, that makes sense! Learning something new everyday. So the only connection to the minus on the coil should be the black wire from the 123. There shouldn't be any other connection to the minus on the coil. And the positive side of the coil? Is it right that a wire from the wire harness would connect to the positive side of the coil? Thanks, makes sense!
  8. Ahh, so that might be my problem. Thank you for helping me! I wired it this way because the negative coming out of the wiring harness is broken. So I made a cable from the negative ground > coil and figured I could just put the blue wire on the coil negative since it's the same as ground negative. Hopefully the minus from the wire harness is still fixable by putting a new spade connector to it. Will keep you guys updated.
  9. I connected the blue wire to the minus/negative of the coil, which is the same as ground, right?
  10. Thanks Andrew, I will check those things you said tomorrow and I will report back here how things work out. Thank you for helping me!
  11. I've had the rotor and cap off of the distributor a several times, so I guess that shouldn't be the problem. I will check it again tomorrow. Also checked for power at the coil with a multimeter and that seems fine. And I have no tachometer in my car, so that cannot be the problem.
  12. But there still needs to be a spark when cranking, right? Even when the timing is off Edit: i'm testing the spark by putting a spark plug on the engine (with good ground) while cranking.
  13. Hey BMW enthusiasts, I'm having troubles getting a spark from my 123ignition tune (USB only). I did everything according to the manual. First made sure the engine was at TDC, installed the 123ignition and found the green LED lighting up. After that I installed the black wire to the coil, like the manual told me. Then put the rotor in and then installed the cap on the ignition and installed the wires according to firing order (CW) (first one to where to rotor was pointing). Then tried to start the engine. Engine turned over but nothing happened. Got a spare spark plug which I connected to a wire to see if there was any spark. Still nothing. Also used a multimeter to read the Bosch Blue coil, but the coil is OK. Is it possible that there is no curve selected or something? Thanks in advance for you help!
  14. I'm having the same problem with my Weber 32/36. You should check this topic: Some people talk about a installing non-return valve that should do the trick. I'm also going to try that.
  15. Hi 02 community, I am thinking of an upgrade for my anti-roll bars. Because my Touring is having too much body roll in the corners. Is it going to make a noticeable difference if I change all of the rubber anti-roll bar bushings for Strongflex and Powerflex polyurethane ones? All of the suspension is still stock. See under here for the product I am talking about. I've also looked into the option of installing Ireland Engineering 22mm anti-roll bars. But it will cost me like €500,- instead of €150,- for the bushings upgrade. I would like to know what you guys think about this. Thanks in advance!
  16. Is it an auto or manual transmission? It could also be the neutral safety switch if you have an auto transmission. In this case your gear lever should be in park or neutral before you can start the engine.
  17. Anyone know how I can access those pages? Very curious about this upgrade because I might want to change my 3 speed auto to a 4 speed auto.
  18. I am sure you could mail the guys from W&N and aks them if the could add the hose you need to your order. They are very helpfull!
  19. VIN lookup results Model E21 Type 320i Spec USA Steering Left Transmission Manual Engine type M10 Produced Jul 1978
  20. Thanks for all the answers guys. I thought the fluid in the gearbox are alright because it has a nice red color with no particles in it at all. I don't know when it was serviced for the last time. So I will start with some new fluids and a new filter to begin with. Hopefully that makes it go away. It is slipping in the first gear only, yes. When I drive off with full throttle in reverse it's not slipping on the gearbox. My tires start slipping then, haha! Are those clutch packs still available? It sounds like that is my problem.
  21. Hello fellow BMW fans, My automatic gearbox seem to be slipping when I accelerate too hard . When I take off with a little throttle everything seems fine. Also when I accelerate very fast when in reverse gear my wheels slip. So then there seems to be no problem at all. Could my torque converter be toast? Or what could it be? I did check the level of the fluid and it was a little under the top mark. So that won't be the problem. What else can I try or check? Thanks in advance.
  22. Just a quick question because I'm also having troubles with air in the fuel lines. This might be a stupid question; how do you get the air out of the system in the first place? Or does it get out automaticaly when the fuel lines are not damaged?
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