Blackwhiteandblue

I assume you mean CFH for the gas flow. That is good for mild steel. As for the voltage and wire speed, each welder is different. There should be a chart on the inside of the welder (where you lift up the side to put the wire in usually). It has recommended wire speed and voltage settings for The thickness you are welding. Then adjust in tiny increments from there. Hope this helps.

I'm glad you are going to continue this build. I followed the build of this car on this site! Excited to see where this goes

Where did you get your fabric from?

Are these VW flares?

This is pretty intriguing. I am doing an M20 swap as well, but I was planning on putting the 5 speed in there with it (will also have an E30 rear subframe). What modifications did you have to use for the clutch slave cylinder? What modifications did you have to do to the trans tunnel? What clutch disc/flywheel/pressure plate did you use? The work looks well done. And maybe I missed it, but what would be the cost for a M20 adapter plate? Either way, like someone else said, I like where your head is at here. And you might want to see if there is any desire for the M20 adapter over on some E30 forums like R3V, bimmerforums, etc. those guys might love the idea of a 6 speed swap (especially someone with an auto...)

The fit on your looks to be about as far back as it can go without hitting the firewall. Have you decided on an engine management system yet? (Sorry to keep pounding you with questions)

OK. I am on the fence abou the filter/plenum box as well. I don't even have an engine in the bay yet, so you are miles ahead of me. What type of engine and transmission mounts does it have currently? I don't know if you can tell or not

Is that their 42MM kit? I am going to be purchasing this soon as well. What is your plan for filters?

I wouldn't think it would be any issue with it since you aren't using a typical tie rod end. If it were the typical tie rod end I would say it needs to be cut and welded because of the taper. But if you are using a heim joint, it should be just a straight hole. Just make sure you don't get the metal too hot when drilling it.

On modern EFI BMW's (E30, E36, and E46 that I know of, I don't get more modern than that) the sensor that kicks on the fan is in the radiator while the sensor that reports to the gauge is in the head. Food for thought...

Anyone know what wheel this is?

That was me! The e30 mounting points on the trailing arms are a about 3" further down than the 2002, so this should give me the correct suspension travel each way. No rally, just the occasional track time if anything. I went with 185 lb springs since the car will be mainly street and I don't like harsh rides. Plus springs are cheap, it isn't a big deal to dial in the spring rate when it is all finished up (that will be a while)!

Been a while, figured it was time for a little update. I have been chipping away at her for the past few months. I ended up redoing the mounts on the rear subframe because I wasn't happy with the wheel placement (this is the first step backwards). I just need to test fit it the next time I work on her. The cylinder head for the engine is with Bimmerheads in CA, so no new news on the engine. But I did start getting to some of the body issues... I noticed in the front foot-well corners there seemed to be some rubberized coating/built up material around it. I started sandblasting it and it ended up being rubberized coating over fiberglass patchwork... (this is the second step backwards). So I went ahead and busted the patches out and this is what I found I went to work cutting out all the spot welds and ended up with this... (this was the one step forward) Went further back on the outer rocker because the PO put a terrible patch on it and didn't match the contour of the rockers. Lastly, I got some goodies in the mail!!! Reason why I haven't made much progress (other than only working on it for select weekends) is I bought a truck! So it has been sucking some of my time to just get it road worthy. Clearly, I am a gluten for punishment... That is all for now

I now feel A LOT better about how my E30 subframe swap is looking! Granted mine is not done either...

You guys clearly don't understand NC... The weather is about as predictable as the way a Walmart arrow flies. It might change 3 times before the weekend! Hopefully for the best! We always say in NC "Don't like the weather? Wait 5 minutes"

What wheels are on that orange car? Those look awesome!

Ah! I forgot about that. I have been following your blog since you started. We started around the same time, but you are much further ahead!

Not aluminum. Only the rear cover is aluminum. Also, I don't think it is good that you can push your shocks down and they stay that way. They are probably on their way out if you can do that. You probably already had plans to replace them, but just wanted to put it out there that it isn't a good thing.

Dang two people beat me to it before I could post a reply

Sounds like that guy was just making a blanket statement about old Euro cars he had not worked on. Rings can be had from Goetze (I consider them a good manufacturer) for around $20 per cylinder. Rod and crank bearings are no more expensive than other engines. I believe you can get both the rod and crank set for under $100 from Glyco (once again I consider them a reputable manufacturer). Maybe he was talking about Lamborghini parts from the 70s???

Einspritz- what was your source for the proper plugs and connectors? Also, what did you do for wiring? I am seriously considering rewiring my 71 02 for everything I want/don't want. Thanks

What did you use for the shutz?

For $6.92 I just bought a 100 pack, that is dirt cheap. They look like there are similar to the E30 type as well. I will keep the extra for when I get around to fixing my central locking...

I was hoping it wouldn't be the first person to guess that got the crank right... But oh well. At least you didn't guess the pistons. These are actually a stock piston. Not aftermarket. But good guess!

Been pretty busy the past few weeks, unfortunately not all on projects. I did manage to get a couple things done though. Engine Updates!!! I now have the block clearance for the new crankshaft and connecting rods. I have my machine shop turning a custom piece for the crankshaft, so this is probably as far as it gets till that comes back. Crankshaft sitting in its new resting place. Any one able to guess the crankshaft??! Hint: it is a stock BMW crankshaft. Here is the clearancing that was needed for the connecting rods and crankshaft. It is a tight fit and I didn't anticipate this much clearancing. Here is the piston at TDC. It fits just proud of the block. I will need to measure the PTV very closely before I order my custom MLS gasket. I will be very impressed if anyone can guess what piston this is. Hint: it is not a BMW piston, but it is a stock piston of some sort. I am not sure if there is anyone well versed in M20s that is lurking on here, but if there is a better way to get this needle bearing for the oil pump gear out of the plug for where the distributor used to go on early M20s please let me know. I have mangled this bearing beyond recognizable with my die grinder, burr, and colorful language. Here is the one from the block side I took out and the one from the plug (correct terminology?) E30 Subframe Finally got the subframe tacked together and test fit onto the car!!!!! I just need to weld it out and find a good way to mount the sway bar. I have seen people just taking the mounts from the 2002 subframe and welding them on to the E30 frame. I think that is what I will do, but I don't like it since it goes under the subframe. Oh well... Here is a picture of the subframe before I cut off the end. I ended up cutting the end off the 2002 subframe and using the subframe mounts. I have seen people just relocate the E30 mounts, not sure why anyone would do that. I hate the subframe mounts in the E30s in comparison the the 2002s bolt on type. Bolt them on and go!!! No cursing, and whacking the subframe with a hammer when you have spent all day trying to get the old shit ones out and the new ones in. Rant over! I will get some pictures of the finished subframe when I get that done.