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About StophinHousen

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  1. Sorry im a bit late to this conversation, I will follow up on the link. If you are still in contact with him ask him about the m10 engine he was suppose to send to Aspen Colorado for a Mr. Steven Spicer. No refund, no engine, never even shipped the motor from what i got from UPS support.
  2. Hiya, I am currently looking at trying to find a m42 driveline to swap into my 2002, Id obviously need all the bits and pieces to make the swap work. Id either do cash OR I have a ugly but running e30ix manual 2dr id trade for a good drive line. its rusted and its a blue and white ugly combo, but it drives and AWD system works well with no chain slip plus a manual 2dr so even if you decided to part out you can make back the 800-1200$ that a m42 drive line would be worth+time . I am not interested in selling the e30ix at this time only trade. let me know if someone out there would make a trade like that or has a m42 drive line in the Glenwood springs area. Thanks
  3. Hiya, So after blowing up my m10 at Woody Creek (Co) track day I am starting to get the things I need to build up another m10 this winter. I have a block and a e12 head that could work but needs some machine work done. does anyone have a shop they would recommend ? The block I want to have bored and the head I want to go through completely (New valve guides, port and polish, shaved if needed, and No. 4 spark plug is stripped) I live in Aspen but would drive to Denver or west to SLC Utah. I don't mind shipping the head if there is a recommended shop that receives Thanks
  4. If I do go with another m10 I will go with a EFI set up. The weber (both 38 and 32/36 and the solex) have never played nice. my Carb has 130 mains and 200 air corrector's and I still run black with my AF dropping out of range quite often. I like the m20 as a build too, for me though id hate to cut the nose of the car to make it fit, with the m42 if I hate it I can relatively put the car back together and just have some extra holes. Plus with a m20 I need to re fresh/ beef up the suspension and with that i wouldn't be road ready till like 2020
  5. No I'm not looking for mind boggling speed, Im just looking for a step up or even a step sideways from where I was with my built up m10. I Don't have the money to build another block and head the right way, and I dont want to just throw together one of our tired motors and blow it up too. (I've put off suspension for close to 5 years now because I keep having to go back and spend money on the m10) Im still deciding what to do, I loved this car and I shipped it to and from Hawaii because I couldn't part with it, but this last summer with its oil burning, rich and stinky exhaust I grew distance from it, always had to do something before I could take it to work and when it decided to start knocking (after i made a emergency run to the parts store for our troubled e34) it broke the spirit some and made me doubt keeping it.
  6. Hiya, So I know this is a sore subject and I've looked into it but they are old threads and I think since then the s14 has become too much of a unicorn, the m42 swap has become more of an option and I want to here some opinions. The reason I'm bringing it up is my built up m10 decided to start to knock hello and although the M10 is neat and a Icon its never been quite what I've been looking for and Im thinking of swapping rather than another rebuild. I live at 8,000 FASL and can go as far as 12,000, part of me thinks the DOHC and modern fuel injection would benefit me greatly (and with the option of going with a supercharger even at low psi to make up for lost power) what is everyone's thoughts ? (And again for those who hold the m10 as a saint I respect the motor) but is the m10 realistically going to be able to push out the same amount of HP on a street-able build ? at the very least at altitude? I had hightop pistons, 292cam, Hbeams, weber 38, Msd and dizzy, and some other goodies. Was not bad but i don't know if i had ever made it to or over 100hp at the wheels. older post show dynos only getting 110 or a hair or two more (I'm not sure what altitude they were at) Ive seen some people say that set up "will make 150 and blow away a m42" but eh im skeptical of those numbers . What do you all think swap or rebuild ? (I do know I will keep all my m10 stuff so if I change my mind I can always go back.)
  7. Came out pretty easy, well one did the other took some work. I currently have f50s in there so I think they are okay from what I found online. So far at idle I have a 12.6 air fuel mixture. 11.5 above 2,200 rpm and 10.9 at 4,000rpm I currently have 140 mains and 190 airs. I've step down from 145 mains and stepped up from 170 airs. Guess I'll have to keep going. 🙃🙃
  8. Howzit? After an attempt to make my Weber 38/38 run a little bit better I am looking to see what type Emulsion tubes I have currently in it. my question is what is the best way to remove them from a 38/38? Thanks
  9. Thank you! I have the Ireland Engineering 8mm spark plug wires, however I did put them in a modified m20 spark plug wire sleeve. so I will remove them and try it without. I also have for a distributor a Ireland Engineering rebuilt T.i.i without vacuum advance, but I replaced the crane system they supplied after it fried on a 600 mile road trip (my fault for improper resistance) Cap has about 4,000 miles and the rotor is a new IE zero resistance Rotor. (got a new cap coming in the mail but old one is still decent) My main reason for proper timing curve is because I live near Aspen Co. where my car regularly sees 8,000 feet above sea level. (its seen 10,000 feet as well) She runs Rich even though the Weber has been Jetted and tested for this altitude. (I do not want pinging, and I don't want washed rings either.) Ill find max advance and its speed, set it for 36 degrees and go from there. main goal is for it to run as well as it can without any damage.
  10. I do have a question..... but I have to bore you first. I have recently installed a MSD Street Fire box on my m10. I was quite happy with some improved gas mileage and a little more "oomph" at low RPMs. (or at least it feels that way to me) but I had to set my distributor to 0 degrees advanced any more and it starts to shake at 2200rpm. At first I kind of thought "Because I put on a MSD, its reasons not known to science and I have to live with it" but then I started playing with my Pertronix and realized it messed with the timing advance curve, like a lot. Didn't keep track of the first gap I had it at (it was probably at .050) but when I set it to .030 I noticed I could advance it to 5 degrees advance (at 1,400RPM) without the shakes at 2,200 RPM I kept going till I set the Pertronix gap to .016 (what regular old points want) and got to about 15 degrees advance at 1,400 RPM. (no shakes) its close to what my old book wants for that speed with the T.I.I. distributor. I am now curious if I should dust off my dwell meter and try and set it like points. I cant find anything online to back this up so my Question is..... Did anyone else notice that with adjusting Pertronix gap? Or is this a weird MSD fluke ? (everybody sets theirs to .030) Can you measure dwell with Pertronix ? What degrees advance do you guys set your timing ? and what do you think I should try and achieve with my m10? (high top pistons, shaved head, weber 38/38, MSD street fire with MSD coil)
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