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Everything posted by Whaledriver

  1. Finally finished most of my work on my2002 and proceeded to take it for a test drive. Every thing seemed OK until I stopped for an errand. When I attempted to start the car, the starter labored to turn the engine over but it finally caught and I drove right home. Once in my garage with the hood up, I tried to start it but the engine would barely turn over and I noticed smoke coming from the voltage regulator. I immediately hit my battery isolator and the smoking stopped. My trunk positioned battery has a full charge and previous starts before have been normal. Any ideas on what my problem is? .
  2. I am still trying to finalize my headlight booster connection issue (open document) I am having difficulty determining the proper wiring connection to the headlight booster kit that I purchased. All of the wiring is laid out but the final connection to the harness from the original harness poses a question mark. The new kit has the final lead that should attached to the original driver's side headlight socket of 3 wires colored Red, Blue & Black as does the new headlight plug in (see below picture). Not only do the plug colors not match but they do not correspond to the slot positions! (see below sketch) Is the position of the wires on the new headlight plug an issue or will it cause a short circuit?Should I ground this blue ringed wirer? note the blue vs white wire connection!Should I ground this blue ringed wire or switch it with the adjacent black wire? wiring question to 2002 FAQ.docx
  3. Thank you for the offer of your headlight wiring  description. Yes you can email it to me at: [email protected]

  4. Sidney TII, The theory behind the headlight boost kit is that it: a. using relays it bypasses the weak panel headlight switch circuit. b. illumination power is now sourced directly from the battery with larger gage wires. c. headlights should provide an increase in brightness. I'll research my long ago purchase resource and provide pics when the install is complete.
  5. I recently purchased a BMW headlight boost kit that came with a confusing a color coded wiring diagram . I guess the manufacturer assumed that it was just a simple plug & play. So far, I have laid out the kits wiring harness but the kit apparently discards the turn signal circuit. As a result, I have retained and connected the original turn signal wiring hoping that it will still work separately from the boost kit. Adding to the wiring confusion is that the kit uses black wire for the ground circuit, blue wire for the "high" beam and red for the "low" beam. In addition, the headlight plug wire positions do not match the original. The original driver's side plug looking from the rear has the brown ground wire in the 9 o'clock insert, the black/yellow in the 12 o'clock insert and the white in the 3 o'clock insert. The new boost kit has both right and left replacement plugs wired with Blue at 9, ground black at 12 and red at 3. I am curious if the original plug brown ground was at 9 and the new kit plug black ground is at 12, will I be short circuiting something or is the position of the old or new plug wires not important as it pertains to the light bulb? Also, the is a short extension coming from the interconnected dual relays with a male insert plug with blue, black and red wires. I don't know what it is suppose to attach to. If anyone has installed this boost kit, I would appreciate some guidance to complete the install. Thanks,
  6. I am a little confused with your advertised asking price of $250 when the developer website sells it for $200? Can you explain the difference?
  7. Has anyone considered an alternative installation of a universal (Gear Vendors) electric overdrive unit vs a 245 five speed for their 2002?
  8. It has two connections, labeled "G" and "WK".
  9. I am not clear on how you want me use the ohm meter attachments to measure the resistance of the sender. I'm leaving for a week and will make your directed procedure when I return. Thanks,
  10. With all three wires connected correctly at the gauge, I disconnected the G wire from the sender and when I turned the key on, the gauge pegged out on the high side again?
  11. The gage is pegged, engine off with ignition on or engine running.
  12. That makes sense. I didn't realize the oil pressure went that high. In other words, my installed wiring is ok and that when it goes off scale on the high side, it is probably accurately trying to display a psi beyond the design of the gage that I have installed. Hopefully a replacement solves my issue and I can get on with other improvements to my Roundie.
  13. I apparently assumed wrong that, since the pod lights only illuminate when the key is turned on, just tapping the hot power source to the pod lights was OK. Are you recommending running a separate wire from the ignition to the "+" side of the gage will solve my pegging out issue? Additionally, anyone know what the normal psi range is on this 73 engine? The puzzling thing is, that the needle pegs out when I turn the ignition on without the engine running! How does that relate to gage pressure range capability?
  14. I just installed a new VDO oil pressure gauge #350-104 80 psi & VDO # 360- 006 10-180 ohm 80psi pressure sensor. I hooked up the "+" side of the gauge to the same power supply that illuminates the gauge pod lights. I wired up the gauge "S" labeled side to the "G" on the sensor. I ensured that the sensor threads were clean during install on the engine, hopefully to ensure a good sensor ground. My problem is that as soon as I turn my ignition to "on", the needle on the pressure gauge goes off scale on the high side. With the engine running, and showing a false high off scale, If I remove the ground from the gauge, the needle drops down below the zero side. I have checked that all the leads contacts are tight. The only thing I haven't done is run an ohms continuity check on the G wire. Any suggestions on solving my issue?
  15. Ditto on a complete pedal box if the price is right.
  16. I don't know what BMP stands for but I will take them. Just let me know how you want to be paid. whale
  17. Here is an example of a slender aluminum overflow tank placement just to the left of the radiator.
  18. To all that offered, I was able to buy one in excellent condition. Thanks for responding.
  19. Yes, It is a Hurricane IP 3000 electronically controlled front fitting unit. After the installation difficulty and considering future fitting access, I would recommend selecting the IP 2000 unit with its side fittings which could use original firewall entries. Old Air Products is one of the purchase sources.
  20. I believe this is the divider that you need: PN 11531256642
  21. Purchased my 73 that originally had a BEHR installed. The previous owner had removed the compressor and condenser along with its engine compartment hoses. Living in SLC, summers can get quite hot, so I bought a electronic controlled DITEC unit and outsourced hoses, condenser, Spal fan, Hobie Dave bracket & Sanden rotary compressor. Removing the original BEHR unit and installing the DITEC was not an easy task. Took a lot of pounding on the trans tunnel to make the base portion fit, not to mention the firewall alignment issue for the heat & Freon fittings exit. If I had known that the unit also came with a side fitting exit rather than my forward exit, that would have been my choice, as I could have used the original hose paths and eliminated additional firewall holes. My system is now installed with the remaining task of figuring out the wiring, as the supplied instructions for a 2002 install were vague & minimal. I still have the original BEHR unit and control cables that I am willing to donate locally (too lazy to ship). Purchase my 73 that originally had a BEHR installed.docx
  22. Do you have this style water divider with two threaded temp sensor ports and the heater stub pointed to the rear (photo attached) ? If you do, how much? Thanks,
  23. I don't think a 39 offset will work on a 2002.
  24. Kidasters, Still standing by for a reply to my offer.

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