Jump to content

jlb

Solex
  • Content Count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    N/A

Community Reputation

25 Excellent

About jlb

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks to MattL's images above, I got around to making some brackets that slide into the front bumper mounting holes. The lights are cheap Hellas, and still need some wiring. I do like the placement so far - and a perfect way to turn the bumper holes into an asset.
  2. This looks great - I'm hoping to do basically the same thing to my bumper-deleted car. Do you have any pics of what the brackets look like before they were installed? Or is it really just as simple as a straight piece of 1.25" tubing jammed into the stock bumper mounting holes, with a light attached to the end of it? I'm holding out hope that I won't have to much more than buy some tubing, cut it to length, and drill a few holes as needed...
  3. It's particularly intuiging to me because my 02's previous owner wasn't shy about cutting the front end up and creating a very large trans tunnel for the M20&G260 swap that's in there. That engine is not healthy, so now I'm daydreaming about shoehorning something else in there...
  4. This is my dream swap! I've checked periodically on r3v to see if anyone has jumped into it, and I found your build thread recently. Amazing work! Now that you've gone this far with the n52 on your e30, do you see anything that would be a particular stumbling block to doing the same in a 2002 chassis? The combination of light weight, compact packaging, great NA power just seems like the perfect package for a 2002.
  5. Thanks for the input guys! I've made some progress on this since posting. It turns out that my power from the fuse box to the hazard switch pin 15 (the violet / white wire) was somewhat erratic. I had been operating on the assumption that this wire was getting proper voltage based on some early tests, but further continuity and voltage testing leads me to believe that there's not clean continuity back to the fuse. I still haven't resolved it entirely, but I did end up switching my jumper over so that the turn signal power (pin 49) is being fed by a different 12v source (I think it was pin #30). All turn signal system components work perfectly when this connection is made. So, I have my turn signals working fine temporarily, and some confidence that all of the actual components are in good working order. Now I need to troubleshoot that one violet/white wire from the hazard switch back to the fuse...
  6. I recently mounted this set of Rota RKRs, in 15x8 et0. I had higher offset BBS 7" wheels previously that just didn't fill out the flares enough. An inexpensive, lightweight-ish, and in my opinion really good looking option. I'm also attaching a pic I saved somewhere of a great 15" wheel from a modified 2002. I think it's from one of the '02s featured on petrolicious. I forget the make, but I looked it up once and found them to be super expensive. Gorgeous but out of my price range.
  7. That's the Nardi Super Squalo that replaced this one... Sourced it from Europe via the 2002 Facebook group. It's wonderful!
  8. Price reduced to $220 for everything: Nardi steering wheel, 2002 hub, and BMW horn button Someone grab this!
  9. Looks great! What's your process? Mine look a lot like your 'before' photo also.
  10. baby got new shoes! 15x8 ET0 Rota RKR Tires are 205/50/15. Kind of a stretch, but I was really worried about rubbing in the front wheel wells. So far so good with the turbo flares. Some rub at full lock, as expected. too blingy?
  11. It's an elastic plastic material literally called "elasto-plastic" offered by shapeways, that's classified as a 'maker material', which means you can print in it for prototyping but aren't allowed to produce items for sale in it, as they don't have the print quality dialed-in yet. Seeing it in person, it's indeed too rough to be 100% happy with it, but good enough for now. I tried sanding it and it just melts and gums up the grit. I'll be curious to see how it withstands weather and UV exposure...
  12. final update: I designed some 3D printed grommets to seal-up the holes around the steel brackets. They came in yesterday and look pretty cool. Unfortunately the material does not really take sanding very well, so I just scuffed and painted them to match the body color and installed them along with some silicone sealant around the metal edge. So little is visible that i'm not too worried about the rough finish.
  13. Finally received my 3D printed "elastoplastic" grommets that I designed to help waterproof the sheet metal holes to complete my "bumper undelete" using a set of Anton's brackets and a beat-up early chrome bumper I picked up a few weeks ago. I was hoping that the material could be sanded to get a better paint finish, but no such luck. I got antsy and painted them anyway; I just had to see how it would all look installed. I slopped some silcone sealant at the metal side, and lubed-up the inner portion with lithium grease to help the brackets slide in there. It's a little rough up close, but worlds better than just the sheet metal bumper skin that the PO installed...
  14. First, I know that turn signal issues are old news around here. I've read every possible thread on the forums, I do have the correct wiring diagram handy for my '74 tii. I do have a digital multimeter, and generally know how to use it . . . Problem: my turn signal stalk switch does not activate the turn signals. I had previously had the same issues when I bought the car awhile back, and eventually solved it through the 'shotgun' approach of replacing the flasher relay, signal stalk, and hazard switch. That solved things for about 6 months. Last week, the problem re-emerged. Part 1: Troubleshooting thus far: - Fuse #6 (purple/white): 12v is present across this fuse when the ignition is 'on', as expected. - Hazard switch (#54 in wiring diagram): when the hazard button is pressed, all four turn signals flash intermittently as designed. When this happens, the gauge cluster bulb does flash on and off correctly. So, the flasher relay, turn signal wiring dash bulb, and hazard switch all appear to be functioning correctly overall. I do have a jumper wire installed to bridge 12v power from pin 15 (purple/white) to pin 49 (green/violet), which I installed previously as part of my past troubleshooting. So, pin 49 (green/violet) now has 12v power when the ignition is 'on' as it should. - Flasher Relay (#55 in diagram): the green and violet wire mentioned above connects to the flasher relay, and does read 12v at the relay terminal as expected. The green and yellow wire (#134) also reads 12v at the flasher relay. So, we have power as expected coming to and from the relay. We also know (from the hazard switch test above) that the relay 'clicks' as designed when the hazards are on. Just in case, i've ordered another relay to have on hand as a spare, coming soon... - Turn Signal Connector (#59 in diagram): In order to test continuity in the signal switch itself, I unplugged it from this connector, and tested the pins at the connector itself. The green/yellow wire referenced above from the relay passes through this connector, and does read 12v power. So, we have power continuity from the hazard switch > relay > connector. HOWEVER: if I connect a jumper from this green/yellow wire to either the blue/red or blue/black terminals adjacent to it (which should activate the turn signals?), nothing happens. No 'click' from the relay, no turn signals. If I am reading the diagram correctly, I should be able to activate the signals with this test as a way of eliminating the turn signal stalk switch from the equation. So, the fact that I cannot activate the turn signals by bridging power at this connector should mean that the signal switch itself is NOT the problem, as described below: - Turn Signal Stalk Switch (#60 in diagram): I have two turn signal stalk switches, since I bought a (used) replacement as part of my previous troubleshooting efforts. One of them is un-touched aside from contact cleaner sprayed inside, and the other has been taken apart completely, cleaned, reassembled. I have tested both for continuity using the DMM, and both pass the continuity test when the switch lever is activated to either left or right, as expected. So, I believe that the signal stalk is not to blame for my current problem. Part 2: What Next / Sanity Check??? - Can someone confirm that, on the white turn signal connector (#59 referenced above), I should be able to activate either the left or right turn signals by jumping the green/yellow to the blue/red or blue/black as described in my test above? If so, then what does it mean that my attempts to do so are failing? It appears that both the blue/red and blue/black wires proceed directly to the turn signal bulbs themselves, and we know that those are fine since the hazard switch is able to activate them. - In order to better understand the hazard switch's role in all this, can someone confirm that the ONLY role that the hazard switch plays in the turn signal operation is to feed power to pin 49? In other words, I could disconnect the hazard switch altogether, but jump between the female pins 15 and 49 and still have turn signal operation? That's my understanding... - I honestly don't know why at this point, but i'm feeling like the flasher relay may be at fault here. Any suggestions on how to test it on its own? - Any other tests to perform? I'm running out of ideas here... Thanks in advance, and sorry for yet another turn signal thread!


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.