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elfhearse last won the day on April 25 2018

elfhearse had the most liked content!

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    Lancaster, PA

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  1. Attached is what Bluntech emailed me....they don't appear to send paper instructions with the bumper set. 2002 BUMPER CONVERSION KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.pdf
  2. I first assembled the rear bumper sections and then installed the impact strip (needed to drill additional holes on the side section for impact strip to fit) After assembly I installed the bumper on the brackets
  3. Stock cap for '76 will fit. I just checked the rotor on my 123+ BT and it appears the stock rotor for '76 will fit also. Last month I pulled the 123 rotor and installed a stock rotor from my previous dizzy. Didn't notice any difference in fit but after reading the 123usa.com site, they refer to the step or lip on inside of rotor. 123 rotor on right ... has the "step" on inside diameter.
  4. www.Hagerty.com Drivers Club
  5. Grabbed it at the Passion exhibit opening, The Vintage 2019 >
  6. That is the original badge on trunk. It has posts that go thru the sheet metal and are held in place by rubber grommets that fit over the pins. I guess you could grind off the post and use 3M Extreme adhesive 2 sided tape ?
  7. I just did this conversion too on my 76. I wanted to keep the Euro bumper look so I went with the long bumper version and the BMW impact strips. You definitely pay the "BMW tax" getting the OEM strips and hardware. (25 M6 T-bolts at close to $10 each ..etc) *Front bumper was easy with Bluntech suppled directions. Supplied bolts are longer than needed and I had to get shorter bolts to fit assembled bumper on over mounting arms. (or you could hack-saw the longer supplied bolts) Installed without any alignment "fiddling". *Rear bumper was more complex and removal of stock bumper and fender trim revealed numerous holes to fill, paint blemishes and unseen rust on trim strips: I bought some nylon hole plugs and spray painted them body color (5/16" and 3/16") but they're visible standing close to the car SO probably body work and respray rear fenders in the future. The rear bumper uses the two short tubes with brackets to mount center section and side wings bolt thru fender. The side wing bumper tab didn't line up with any holes so I had to drill yet another hole in the fenders to secure sides of bumper. Also bought some large rubber electrical grommets (5/8" IIRC) at Lowes to span the gap between the bumper wing and fender. They worked well and compressed when tightening. Level the side "wing" pcs. first, measure 3X then drill the dreaded additional hole in the fender. Aligning the side bumper pcs. took the most time. Tighten them down first then tighten up the two main mounting bolts on the rear bumper. I used butyl strip tape to seal the inside nuts from moisture. There is a SIGNIFICANT weight savings to this modification in addition to cosmetic improvement (minus rear fender holes) I weighed the front diving board at approx. 35 lbs and the Bluntech bumpers weight about 16 lbs. each so you save about 30 lbs. on the conversion. Overall purchase cost was over $2,200 but I figured that was the money not spent on cancelled trips to Lime Rock, VIR, Watkins Glen etc...
  8. 4) Weber 34mm Main Venturi for DCOE40. Tapped in and out one time with brass tool with one test drive. Too large for my setup... Price includes shipping via USPS Small Flat Rate box to CONUS lower 48.
  9. Kooglewerks review on the turn signals > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BH4sFvayrw
  10. I decided to replace the twenty year old plastic brake booster line fitting that was installed on my Cannon intake with dual Weber DCOE40's. Searching here I really didn't find a complete answer so here is the actual replacement fitting courtesy of the local ACE Hardware (don't waste you time at Lowe's or HD - n/a) Pix #1 Plastic fitting circa 2000. Installed finger tight with PTFE sealant. (one positive note is when the carbs backfire during idle adjustment you get a cool orange flash inside the fitting) Pix #2 Brass 1/2" hose barb x 3/8 MIB fitting. Installs with 11mm deep socket.
  11. The late style plastic floats in my Spanish Weber have a different measurement: "14mm at extreme tip of float, drop is 2mm maximum of needle travel. All settings are gasket to top of float."
  12. Very helpful chart.... I've discovered my 2 DCOE40's installed twenty years ago are set up for a 1600cc Lotus Elan. 30mm choke will be getting changed soon to 32mm + 130/F9. I pulled the 45F9 jets and dropped in some 50F8 idle jets and that has helped my idle which has always been lumpy and "anemic".
  13. The "newer" Spanish Weber DCOE have a different idle mixture screw base setting per TOPEND Technical article: "2 1/4 to 3 turns out for late style DCOES 151 and 152 with air bleed screws under the white caps." complete page which I found helpful > https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/weber-carb-tuning-and-technical-info/jetting-and-tuning-downdraft-and-sidedraft-weber-carbs.html
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