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Mucci

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Posts posted by Mucci

  1. So I re-read through the Engine section of Mike Macartney's book and came across this very useful bit of info:

    "The flat top pistons for the 3.0S, 3.0Si, 3.0Ci, 3.0CSi, 528, 630i and 530i with US specification 8.3:1 compression have a deck height of 42.6mm, while the 2002 E12 piston has a deck height of 42.1mm. using the taller flat top pistons from these six cylinder engines will raise the compression ratio on a E12 engine by 0.5mm and equate to virtually the same volume as the 1.5mm "grand piano" shaped raised portion on the original 2002 piston."

    Some quick cylinder volume calculations:

    88.97 "tall flat top" is +3.11 cc piston volume
    89.22 "tall flat top" is +3.13 cc piston volume
    89.47 "tall flat top" is +3.14 cc piston volume
    89.72 "tall flat top" is +3.16 cc piston volume

     

    So I go out to the garage to have a look at the used flat top pistons I grabbed from a local guy and surprise... there's a "5" stamped in the top of one of them.

    I'd like to verify it. Is there a way to tell the difference between the 4cyl and 6cyl flat tops? Trying to measure from the center of a hole to the piston deck within .5mm tolerance is pretty impossible with digital calipers. 

    Each piston is Mahle and has "89V15 (then an unfamiliar symbol)" cast on the inside. Does that mean anything to anyone?

  2. I'm currently building a 2.0L motor with a 1.8 head, 292 cam, EFI and an Eaton M45 that'll be running low boost. Plan is around 180-200hp so I figure somewhere in the 8-12psi ballpark.

    I've read this setup yields a CR around 7.8ish:1. I was wondering if there are other "out of the box" piston options for this setup that'll get it closer to 8.5:1 and will work with the 1.8 head.

    My plan was to just run the flat tops but it's looking like I may be forced to buy new pistons.

  3. 10 hours ago, TobyB said:

    GC isn't particularly chatty, but have you tried getting an ETA from them?

     

    Slotting the strut tops would be kinda messy, and also probably

    warrant some reinforcement underneath.  Which would be less

    than easy...

     

    I went looking at the VAC website, since I'd trust them not to sell

    junk, and both Feal and JRZ have later- model parts that look

    to be adjustable in both axes.  

    It may be worth seeing if they have 2002 sized parts

     

    t

    really can't recall another company that does caster-

    whyfor do you want it adjustable?


    I sent VAC and GC emails asking if they had them / when they’d be in stock. No response from either so far. 
     

    I want to be able to test out different degrees of caster to see how it affects steering. My caster is only around 2.5 ° right now and there isn’t very much restoring force to bring the wheel back to center. On top of that the geometry in this car isn’t very symmetrical so having some adjustability to dial in the #’s would be nice. 

  4. I’ve got the headliner out and I noticed that with the sunroof open the right rear corner flutters around at highway speed. I see there’s one of these black plastic prongs on the left side that appears to hold the track in place. I was thinking the lack of this part on the right is why the track is loose however RealOEM states there’s only 1 required. Is that correct? There appears to be the same provisions for it on the right. 
     

    PN: 54129734118

     

    85C54380-3602-48A6-A0A2-F1F6D937089D.jpeg.35437d18fbc04dabc4d53198333a42ac.jpeg

     

  5. Ok…

     

    - Idler arm heat shield removed

    - Firewall heat shield removed

    - Carpet removed

    - Nothing in the header collector

    - No resonator (just tube back to muffler)

    - Top of frame rail at firewall surprisingly clean and debris free. 
    - Tried drilling small holes from inside into the section where the floor and frame rail meet at the front corner then sent 1” sheet metal screws in there. My theory was maybe it would grab a sheet of loose metal inside the frame. 
     

    STILL BUZZING. 

  6. 11 hours ago, Mike G said:

    Have you looked at where the frame rail meets the firewall from inside the engine bay? Something could be stuck there. Missing 10mm socket perhaps?

     

    10 hours ago, 2002iii said:

    I dropped a nut down there the other day and when I used a magnet to retrieve it I also got a hose clamp and a washer.


    A hose clamp!? I'll have to have another look. I thought the top side of the frame rail at the firewall was capped off. Of course I just covered it all with underbody coating ? I'd be surprised if it's something loose because once the noise started it's been relentlessly consistent.

    I'll keep my fingers crossed. Solving this buzzing with a magnet and being rewarded with an artifact would be much preferred to cutting a hole in my new floor. 

    The buzzing sounds like thin gauge steel so I'm probably not getting and sockets out of the deal unfortunately. 

     

     

    54 minutes ago, JerryC said:

    If you get under the car with the engine running, it's a pretty short reach to the throttle linkage and you can rev it to your heart's content. Just make sure it CAN'T ROLL, working e-brake and wheel chocks at least.

     

    Jerry


    Unfortunately I can't replicate the noise with the car on stands. It also goes away when I'm not sitting in it. I've tried cranking up the idle to 2500 to hold the buzz while I investigate but it's damn elusive outside of on-road driving. My drive up ramps aren't tall enough since the car's lowered but I think I need to figure out way to get the car high enough, on it's tires, with someone in the seat so I can finally have a look from underneath while it's buzzing.

     

     

    1 hour ago, TobyB said:

    giant magnet.  No, not to retrieve it, just to stick it in place so it doesn't move.


    A friend recommended this. I enjoy it's simplicity but I'm terrified that it'll hold off the buzzing just long enough for me to get the new interior fully installed. That's usually how these quick fixes go for me.

    "Hey...remember that corner you cut? Here let me remind you..." - every "finished" car project I've had. 

  7. I’ve spent the past month trying to track down a metal buzzing noise coming from the passenger side at 2500rpm. 
     

    At first I assumed it was the botched floor repair with hastily tack welded galvanized sheet. So I cut out the floor and replaced it with a fresh panel from restoration designs. Por-15’d everything, used seam sealer and then 3M underside coating. 
     

    The buzzing continued. Next I assumed heat shield. I yanked it out. The buzzing continued. I had my girlfriend drive the car at 2500rpm while I sat in the passenger side and can pin point the sound to exactly where the frame rail runs under the floor at the front edge of the foot well. There’s basically nothing around that rail to buzz anymore which leads me to think it’s something inside the frame rail??

     

    Has anyone experienced this? I’d love some insight before I go cutting up the floor I just welded in. It’s driving me crazy. 

  8. 12 hours ago, Einspritz said:

    The blue plastic is not supposed to move in any way. In fact, they should've been installed by hammering them in, with, you know, a hammer.

     

    And the torque on the castle nut iirc is about 58 lb.ft. BUT you should tighten it such that it is not tight, but just allows free movement, whatever torque that is. It's a dumb design, but it is what it is.

    So you’re saying trying to spray lubricant in there was the opposite thing to do….

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