Mucci

These drums are new and worked smoothly the day before I put the new wheels on. I can’t imagine they’d go out of round overnight. New wheels are lug centric. If they were off I’d think I’d get vibration at certain speeds but they’re smooth until you apply the brakes. I’ll go through the handbrake adjustment again. Maybe one of the cables is still a tiny bit tight with the lever down and it’s offsetting the drum.

60 miles ago I put new drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders in the rear of my ‘75. I went through the handbrake adjustment and everything went smoothly. Tonight I put a new set of wheels on and I get pulsing in the pedal under braking. I can make the car pulse by pulling the hand brake so I’m pretty confident it’s coming from the drums. I realized I had the parking brake on when I did the wheel swap so my first thought was that the drum shifted then I mounted the new wheels with the drum off center. I chocked the front wheel and jacked the car back up without the brake on. Fully loosened the lug nuts, spun / jolted the rear wheels back and forth then put the lug nuts back on in a star pattern doing incremental torque passes. It still shakes. Is there a different way to make sure the drum is centered? It was smooth before so I’m thinking it’s an assembly issue on my part. There’s no shaking at speed so I know the wheels are properly balanced.

Ok thanks for the info. That 2mm of difference won't be an issue. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to find out this setup pushed the wheels out another 10mm and caused fender clearance issues.

So it will change by .077"? How accurate is that number and in what direction? Caliper clearance is not my concern. Tire to fender clearance is. I'm building a one-off 15" wheel setup.

Having trouble finding info on this. I planned a wheelset around the stock 2002 hubs/brakes but have just acquired the E21 hubs w/ Volvo caliper & discs brake upgrade. Will the front track width remain the same as stock with that setup?

Hmh, interesting. I assumed if it was the clutch it would slip MORE when you started with the revs higher up. Maybe it's a matter of smoothly slipping at higher rpm starts vs. shuddering between slip & grip at low rpm starts. Did you do any tests to check the clutch health before hand or did you just replace it?

Did it slip on other occasions?

Either of you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue - a shudder just as i get going unless I start with the revs higher up. My guibo, center support bearing and trans mounts are new and didn’t fix it. I wouldn’t think it was clutch since the problem doesn’t occur if you give it MORE gas at launch... which would be asking more of the clutch.

Using the OEM shifter would eliminate the short-shift feature, the reason I bought this.

If I bend anything else it'll be the shifter rod to match the OEM rod (above) since the linkage parts are now straight. It almost feels like there's spring resistance from one side but not the other; i.e. there's spring pressure coming from the left, pushing the shifter to the right...but no pressure coming from the right. I haven't opened up a 232 so I'm not sure what the inner mechanism looks like. I'm going to drive with it a bit first because I think it feels good as-is. Me either, plus it's a garbage upholstery job with Jeep wrangler front seats... Not my doing. The car will be going back to it's original Taiga green so some Saddle brown will be replacing it.

Here’s the shifter in neutral: (ignore the gross carpet. That’s getting pulled out) Also FYI, the thread size is larger on the IE shifter so the 2002 knobs don’t fit. Luckily I had this one from my E28 still.

While waiting for the plastic bushings I took the linkage off the car to have a closer look after Andrew spotted a potentially bent part. It turned out both pieces were slightly bent: I put both of them in the vice and tweaked until the numbers were straight. Here are the correct cup bushings (white) Andrew sent over: You can see the difference in ID on the thin side is about 1.5mm. The correct bushings and the tweaks to the linkage definitely helped. The shifter is still biased towards the right but perhaps that’s normal? Let me know if your shifters sit perfectly straight and centered in the console when in N. When mines in first it’s perfectly straight up. Honestly it feels pretty good to me. I’m 6’3” with long legs and if first gear was biased to the left more it’d start getting pretty close to my leg. The amount of throw is spot on too. Definitely shorter but not “stubby”. I’ll post photos later. Did the install at night without much light.

Thanks for the leads Mike. I took apart the hazard switch and flasher relay. The little prong on the hazard switch was bent upwards a bit so I bent that back to 90. I also noticed some corrosion on the solder side of the flasher PC board that could have been causing false connections between the solder points. I lightly scraped that away with a tiny screwdriver then hit it with a toothbrush and some windex. I’m not sure which of those fixed it but it’s fixed!

That connector looks solid. Mike, the car's a '75 - US model. I just checked and this happens in the first key position - pre-ignition. I only dismantled the switch after the problem started in an effort to find the issue.

Just got done putting my rebuilt heater box back in and now I'm having a turn signal issue. I feel like maybe I forgot to plug something back in or unplugged something unintentionally while doing the heater box. Issue: Hazard switch blinks with RIGHT turn signal only. All bulbs work. Hazards work. Left signal works and does not make hazard button blink. Here's what I've tried: - Swapped front bulbs left to right. No change. - Double grounded both front signals. - Took hazard switch apart and cleaned all connections. - Cleaned the 2 clusters of brown ground wires that attach to the firewall stud that the heater box mounts to. Am I missing a connection somewhere under the dash? I'm not seeing anything obvious.

Double checked the shift plate, arms and trans mounts. They all look straight. I took the stock shifter apart to look for signs that someone bent it but didn’t see any dents or jaw marks. It looks untouched. Also verified it’s the 232 trans. Only other thing I could think of (besides this being the wrong shifter) is that maybe the angle was off because it was sitting higher in the shift plate due to the incorrect bushings. Here are the rods next to each other, IE on right.

Small update - Andrew got back to me and verified the plastic bushings weren't correct and is sending me the right pair. As for the far right lean we're still trying to figure that out. I'm going to get back under the car to check if anything's bent.

Mine also fit snug without the parts above the plastic bushing but once they get a bit worn there won’t be a spring in there to apply pressure and it’ll get sloppy.

Oh! Could epoxy that sucker too...but you'd probably have to take the shifter out and at that point I'd also be in the "upgrade" midset. ?

I assume you mean shift knob? The threads in your knob are probably trashed. They're plastic threads so they wear out before the metal shifter. If the loctite doesn't work replace the knob, not the shifter. Or if you REALLY like your shift knob and it's not replaceable you could apply a layer of epoxy to the threads inside the knob then re-cut the threads with a tap. I'd make sure the tap threads in deep enough before doing the epoxy. Most taps are tapered so you don't get to the full thread depth until about a 1/2" up the tap.

I sent them a message after hours Friday and expect they’ll get back to me on Tuesday, I was just trying to sort this out this weekend if possible. I was finally able to extract the IE shifter. I had to slice the top plastic cup into 2 pieces and pry it out. Here are my findings: Difference in angles Reason for the difference in stack height: Granted the OEM plastic pieces are worn out and probably shouldn’t be able to touch but that difference is why I can’t fit the spring, washer and spring retainer in the IE stack up. This has to be the wrong part right?

That's in neutral unfortunately. The rod does go straight through the ball but the shifter biases itself to the right like that, as if it's in 4th (It's a 4spd). Does that original shifter (black) look correct in the way it bends to the left? The fact the spring and washer don't fit in the stack up seems ...wrong.

There IS a bend in the IE shifter I got but it looks more like a bend in the direction of travel and not left to right...which is why it's still pointing to the right even when I rotate it 180. I'm going to try to pull it all out again. Unfortunately the black plastic socket cups fit so damn tight into the shift plate that I'm probably going to have to cut them out with an exacto. I spent an hour trying to get pop it out last night and couldn't no matter how hard I whacked it from the underside with a block of wood.

** I’ve contacted IE but I was hoping to get this solved before the long weekend is over ** I’ve got a ‘75 2002 and just purchased the IE 4-speed short shifter. I tried to install it yesterday and had a bunch of issues so I’m trying to figure out what’s going on. 1. The stack up around the shift ball doesn’t fit in the shift plate. The parts orientation I pulled out was top to bottom: Circlip Washer Spring Spring retainer cup Plastic cup socket - top :: shifter ball :: Plastic cup socket - bottom ...all down into the shift plate tube/cup recess. I was only able to fit this stack up from the IE kit I got: Circlip Plastic cup socket - top ::shifter ball:: Plastic cup socket - bottom ...that’s it, otherwise the stack was above the circlip recess in the shift plate. Inspecting from the bottom I made sure the plastic piece was fully seated in the shift plate. A photo of the IE stack and how far it comes up without the spring, retainer or washer. 2. The shifter is pointing way off to the right. I tried flipping it 180 but it’s still far right. The stock shifter I pulled out has a bend to the left which centers it when mounted. The IE shifter does not. Anyone know what’s going on here? Did I get the wrong shifter? Did someone install an early shifter/plate in my late car? I’m I missing something basic?