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Mucci

Solex
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Everything posted by Mucci

  1. Great info, thanks Toby! I'll take some measurements and see what I discover.
  2. You mean like this? That was the car when I bought it. I've since replaced all the damaged body panels. I was told "the e-brake failed and it rolled into a tree". Looks more like a car shaped object to me... I haven't noticed any buckling points on the interior wing but obviously something's off.
  3. It’s not a 518. It’s a ‘75 2002. I didn’t realize that page heading until I got home. I assume they couldn’t find 2002 specs? So I should be looking for damage at the radius arms or strut towers? When you say “tipped in” you mean camber?
  4. Just got back from the alignment shop and I’m seeing quite different front camber and caster numbers from left to right even though the car still has stock strut mounts. LF Camber: -0.2 Caster: 0.0 RF Camber: -1.7 Caster: 1.3 I just got finished installing the following: - New 15” wheels and 175/50-15 tires - Shortened strut housings 2.25in and installed weld-in perches and adjuster sleeves - 300# QA1 2.5” springs in front - Koni Yellow MR2 rear shocks up front - Koni Yellow rears - SSS 250# 5in rear springs - Rear adjuster sleeves - Energy Suspension top and bottom poly spring pads for the rear I set up the coilovers at the exact same adjuster height +/- 1mm. I also measured the rim to fender distance left to right and they’re within a few mm. Am I correct in thinking this is a concerning amount of difference in front camber and caster? My worry is that something is tweaked and I didn’t notice. What do you all think?
  5. Good to know! Do you know the dimensions of the Bosal resonator?
  6. If that happens maybe plan B is inserting another perf sleeve inside the current one to block a percentage of the through hole area while still using the full baffling length. ...sounds like a good excuse to buy a slip roller.
  7. Interesting solution...blocking a certain amount of the perf section. I like it! Finding something that sleeves in tightly with thin wall could be tough but we'll see.
  8. Muffler and resonator? So they use perf core and packing to damp sound I assume? Do you have any reasoning behind which one would be best to modify to increase sound a bit? I was assuming muffler... both because it's in the word and because it's a cylinder ( likely more simple inside to modify )
  9. Why is this thread now about making the car quieter with a stock air cleaner? Please start your own thread or send a PM if you want to discuss that.
  10. Curious if anyone has photos of the inside of the Ireland SS muffler or resonator? The system is just too tame sounding for me so I'm thinking about some surgery. I'm curious if either have a "down and back" style routing path that could be modified to be more straight through. Also curious if it uses packing material or metal baffling to decrease noise. The car's got a Weber 32/36, headers and the IE SS exhaust and it still sounds stock unless you're at WOT, and even then the noise is mostly induction howl from the secondary opening.
  11. While piecing together a custom "low cost" suspension setup I'm inadvertently collecting a bunch of part numbers while trying to find parts that are in stock. Hopefully this will help someone else not waste as much time as I am. I'm specifically looking for 5" OD x 8" L 250lbs springs for the rear and adjustable perches so what follows is inline with that setup. Adjustable Perches for 5" Springs: Speedway Motors - " 91645551" - $29 ea Afco - "10620187" - $40-45 ea Allstar - "ALL56119" - $45 ea Bryke Racing - "320-301P" - $70 pair (Haven't verified if they're the desired 2-7/8 ID but these are for 5" springs so likely are.) 5" x 8" 250lbs Springs (change "250" in PN to your desired rate) Afco Lightweight Yellow - "25250-3" - $73 ea Landrum Gold - "H250" - $55 ea Suspension Spring Specialists - "SSSN250" - $54 ea These are the "low cost" route. Yes I know there are other companies that make parts to the above specs which are more common from 2002 suppliers. Those parts are about 2-3X as much as what's listed above so it's your choice. Hope this helps!
  12. You can use this stuff to seal slip joints. Just apply a layer to the inside of the female joint with your finger. As for the joints rotating, I just got mine into place where I wanted it last night, clamped down the joints, then drilled a hole in each slip joint and inserted a small sheetmetal screw with a dab of the Ultra Copper on it. Neither of these fixed the fact that the muffler hanger positions are way off but it's sealed up and not moving around anymore.
  13. Old thread but I'm wondering if this ever worked? Any photos?
  14. I feel like the Hulk when i get in our Fiat with electric steering after driving the 02 and my first spin goes 180-deg too far (...followed by an over aggressive brake stomp)
  15. Would this stiffen steering feel at all? It's already a bear to park with the Nardi, low offset and 175 tires.
  16. ...but will it be full stainless and TIG welded? The few exhaust systems I've had done at custom shops that were around the $400 price range were aluminized steel and MIG welded. Do they sound or seal different because of it? Probably not... However the TIG welded SS systems usually last longer and are lighter. ...of course that's if they're designed well which is clearly a weak point of the IE system. In summary... maybe its better to work with a local shop if the price is the same. At least they're local when/if you have issues. The weeks of waiting to ship things back and forth with IE due to crappy quality is a real pain when you drive the car daily.
  17. Beautiful valve cover! Is it painted / powdered a darker gray or just the lighting? Makes me want to shoot mine a darker color. I love the contrast with the flycut bits.
  18. Is that something between an oil and a grease?
  19. Thanks for the info @Mike Self, mine's leaking like crazy and I just ordered new seals for it. I'll inspect the innards while I have it apart and make the adjustments after it hopefully passes the inspection.
  20. While recently diagnosing a shudder around 35mph I realized that there's virtually no steering feel when the wheel is on center. Is this typical for gearbox steering? This is the first car I've owned without rack & pinion. For instance, I could feel the 35mph shudder in the seat AND in the wheel if it was anywhere but on center. Once I was driving straight the feeling would stop translating through the steering even though the shudder was still occurring. There's no play in the steering on center. It's pretty tight and otherwise feels like a solid connection. It's not that "floating" on center feeling I've had in other cars. Just wondering if this is par for the course or if there's an adjustment to be done.
  21. Was this the IE replacement that was sent or the first one that was incorrect? I'm having the same issues you described: muffler hangers are too short to reach car hangers. They're also clocked at different angles (like shown in your photo) while the car hangers are both flat to ground. ...pretty annoying that this is still an issue 12 years later.
  22. Good to hear. That's what I was planning to use with the Microsquirt.
  23. Ok. Just wondering if there was a benefit in size too or if it was just the TP & cable integration. (...also, you have working cruise control??) What are you using for air metering?
  24. My plan is to use the lower manifold with injectors, make a custom upper plenum and run Microsquirt management.
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