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Mucci

Solex
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Everything posted by Mucci

  1. Under closer inspection these were not in fact poly bushings. I believe they’re stock rubber ones. And I’m now 99% sure the noise is coming from the idler arm bushing area. FullSizeRender.MOV I took the nut and top cap off and tried to blast some T-9 Boeshield down there but it doesn’t seem to have worked. Is the blue plastic part supposed to rotate? I can see it moving in a notchy fashion.
  2. Is there a way to grease these without taking them apart?
  3. The ball is part of the center link? I just replaced that a few months ago…
  4. I was pushing and pulling the wheels / tie rods while under there. What would the clicking noise be coming from? It kind of sounds like a bad ball bearing.
  5. About 3 months ago I spent a small fortune having every bushing in the front end replaced, including tie rods and center track arm. I recently started getting a clicking noise when rotating the steering wheel. I got under the car and it sounds like it’s coming from the idler arm (which has new poly bushings). Or at least something right around there. Any idea why this would be happening?
  6. Was this used in a race car or street car? Was the HDPE more noisy than something like stock rubber? I've got a little Atlas 618 lathe which should be just big enough for the 5" spring pad. Doing it on a drill press without a tool holder sounds fun though
  7. Is that white nylon you're using as the bottom perch or was that a plug to cast something out of poly / rubber? I've thought about doing the same thing but feared it may lead to a lot of clunking instead of using a softer durometer material. The tall conical center is exactly what I need though. My rear springs keep catching and folding down the thin lip of the Energy Suspension spring pads after lifting the car.
  8. …and to your point Toby, the fact that these cars are appreciating is the only reason Im spending the time to bring this heap back from the dead. There’s something nice about dumping a bunch of time into a project and knowing I’m not totally setting the money on fire. That’s a first for me…
  9. Also curious about the trick. I’ve done the rags around the valve heads to hold them open but can’t do that with the cam out.
  10. Does anyone still make the 6025-1 camshaft installation frame tool? Or does anyone have one they'd be willing to sell?
  11. IMG_7309.MOV What amount of longitudinal play should there be in the shift rod when the transmission is in neutral? I’ve replaced all the bushings and pins in the linkage but I’m still seeing this much play. I can trace it back to the shift rod moving in and out of the trans, so it’s internal. I’m checking because I noticed lever throw is longer to get into gear since the trans swap. Using the same IE short shifter as before.
  12. Ok, that's good to hear. That means it's likely a linkage, hydraulics or pedal box issue. I know for a fact the pedal box is slop-city so that sounds like the place to start. Where's the challenge in buying the correct parts when I could use the free parts and spend months making them work? In truth I didn't think there would be this many small discrepancies between the 4-spds. It's just been a rabbit hole of loss eversion. After driving the car around yesterday I'm confident this transmission is in good shape and that it's highlighting other issues mentioned above. I'm not planning to sell this car. It's a "bringing it back from the grave" type of build and after going through all this work I plan to keep it for a very long time. I'm sure in that time period it'll eventually get a 5spd and a slew of other upgrades. Most of which will not be for entertainment value not resale value. One thing at a time...
  13. So I finally got the transmission in and operating. It works well aside from a grinding when going into first from neutral unless I wait a few seconds. I’ve read several threads on this and a response from Mike Self stating that the early 4-speeds do not have a N to 1st synchro. Is that correct and does it mean there is no fix for this? Reminder trans is a ‘67. I’ve pressure bleed the system already and still have the issue. I also adjusted the cluch lever for more disengagement throw. I also read something about the 215mm TOB being shorter and affecting throw. Is this still an issue if I’m using the 215mm flywheel, same TOB arm, and a new Sachs 215mm clutch / PP / TOB kit?
  14. Only reason I'm entertaining this is because someone said my guibo looked big. According to RealOEM the 26111106113 8-bolt guibo was used from 66-76 so unless there's a known manufacturer with oversized guibos I'm assuming it's the right one. My money is also on something in the stack-up not being right. This is a '67 trans going into a '75 car with a '75 shifter setup. Here's the '68 shifter linkage: And this is the '75 linkage in the car I installed late model #3 selector rod joint from the lower image so I could keep my late model shift linkage and new short shifter. I've got all the linkage parts below, so I'm thinking this might be the answer?
  15. Is that 100mm measured? Every mm counts here
  16. I can't tell from the photo due to perspective. What's it read in mm?
  17. It’s the one I’ve had in the car for 3 years so it works… just not with this new (older) trans. Anyone happen to have an early 8-bolt guibo laying around they can measure?
  18. It's hitting the cylindrical bushing on the end of the transmission shift rod, not the shifter linkage rod so unfortunately that wouldn't help. I checked the diagram and it's oriented correctly right now. Guibo is hitting #3
  19. Alright I finally got the new trans in and am having two issue. The big issue is the guibo hits the shift rod joint. Remember from earlier in this thread that the ‘76 trans I pulled out had a shift rod that was around 50mm longer which put the shift rod joint beyond the guibo. Is there a fix for this? Smaller diameter guibo or something on the earlier cars? Secondary issue is the speedo cable hole is smaller on this trans.
  20. Got into the shop today and had no patients for that seal anymore so I grabbed a 1/2” flat blade, sharpened it like a chisel and put a 20 ° bend in it. Then I hammered it between the seal face and the housing and pried up. Came out in like 10sec and didn’t gouge the housing. Wish I did that 2 days ago.
  21. That’s exactly what I’ve been trying to do. I was hoping there was some easier way I’m missing. What a dumb design.
  22. I have that. There’s nothing for it to grab onto because you’re looking at the back of the seal. The seal is face down in the hole. The picture I posted is what came up when I googled “silly seal puller”. It’s called a shaft type seal puller. It actually looks like it could work if the lip is thin enough to wedge between the seal face and the metal housing.
  23. Had to Google that one. Is this what you’re talking about?
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