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Mars55

Solex
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Posts posted by Mars55

  1. Price: $35
    Location: Chicago, IL


    Description:

    I have a set of three seatbelts, likely two rear and one front, with Klippan airplane-style buckles. Included are anchor covers. Hardware not available. These belts came off a 1968 1600. Examine photos carefully as webbing has been cut in places and would need to be replaced. Corrosion on some pieces.

     

    image.thumb.jpeg.7b39dc7de8f01a6a558a64b964bb43a4.jpegIMG_20230730_152825790.thumb.jpg.0fce92b2a7cfcd9f9a392828e4d85bd5.jpgIMG_20230730_152832251.thumb.jpg.1fbc9401f8f48a4d418d439e07402840.jpg 

     

  2. Update

    Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Bottom line - after trying a couple of different condensers, one of them finally seemed to work. I had some help to reset timing and she started up. Need to do more fine tuning to smooth out idle. It's been a good experience to troubleshoot what I gather is a common set of circumstances.

    Again, thank you!

  3. Thanks for the replies. As the video shows (If you can see it), battery and starter are working. I have spark at the plugs. 

    The carb is getting gas fed to it and it smells like it. I've also sprayed starter fluid. 

    I've tried with choke wide open. It's been my experience with this motor that it prefers the choke knob out about a finger-width to start.

    I swapped in new condenser and installed new points (the old ones were more pitted than I could see before.) Points have been gapped.

     

    Could it be carb related? What possible carb issues could cause this failure to start? 

     

  4. Update III

    The condenser on the 1600 attaches to the outside of the dizzy with a bracket. The original (not to the car, but on previously) is on the right. I have a new pair that look like the one on the left. Well, the new one is slightly larger in diameter than the previous one, so I wrestled with reattaching it with the bracket.

    In any event, I tried to start and, again, no go.

    Next step is to swap in new points and gap them. Other suggestions?

    I'm concerned about the condition of the plugs, as described earlier. One was fouled and two others clean but in small pools of oil. Bad rings? Rich mixture? Again, as I said, the car started earlier this week and had been running fine.

    A more experienced friend will help with setting the timing....if I can get it to start. Old car blues.

     

    Thanks for all the suggestions.

     

     

    IMG_20230624_180839781.thumb.jpg.64aabfc8607619e031d72071af76cbd2.jpg

  5. Update II

    Last night a friend came over and we checked for spark at the plugs. All fired up.  Strangely, with plug from cylinder #1 out, the engine almost fired up.

    The points don't look badly corroded, but I used 600 grit sandpaper (all I have) to lightly sand the surfaces. I also sanded the condenser wire that attaches to the diff.

    So, what should be my next move?

    A) Swap out the points

    B ) Swap out the condenser 

     

    About the plugs. Changed last year and gapped at .28. Plug #1 tip is fouled, oily. Plugs #3 & #4 tips were clean but I found oil pooled in wells. 

     

    Any tips on how to set the dwell would be welcomed!  (I don't have a dwell meter...)

     

    Again, thanks!

     

     

  6.  

     

    Mike et al -

    The battery and starter are strong. It cranks just fine. Like I said, it started earlier in the same day with little hesitation.

     

    Also, the carb is getting fuel.  Gas is present to and from the fuel pump. 

    On to the points. I checked voltage at the points while rotating the engine. Voltage is good on either end.

    Voltage at the coil is good. 

    I will do the spark plug test when a friend comes over later today. For what's it's worth, just replaced them last year, maybe 600 miles. I'm hoping that's the issue. 

     

    Thanks for the help!

     

  7. Hi all -

    So, here's a new-to-me situation. Yesterday I started my '68 1600. After a while sitting, it usually takes a few attempts and squirts of starting fluid to fire. She started and I left her idling for about 10 minutes. All good.
    I then swapped out the old storage tires for the good set I use in the summer. That went smoothly. With all four tires swapped, I went to start it. Nothing.
    I've checked the fuel lines to/from the fuel pump and carb. I also checked the connecting line at the tank. All have fuel. 
    After repeated attempts, she won't start. Today I changed the fuel filter for a new, clear one. (Old one was opaque.) Fuel is flowing, though I'm not sure how much is normal.

    What should I check next?

     

    Thanks!


     

      

  8. I’m planning to finish the last step of the restoration of my ‘68 1600, a repaint to its original color, Florida. It’s a driver with all mechanicals refreshed. The interior is complete and while the headliner is in okay shape, I’ll likely install a new one.

    I’d like to hear suggestions on how to prep the car for paint. I may replace some of the body trim, so would you deliver it without it? Any suggestions on what to look out for in the process, like how to communicate with the paint guys on the job, what to ask, etc?

    Thanks in advance!

  9. Many thanks for the great ideas. I'm aware of SMS and their samples and I agree, they seem the best match with pattern. I think the issue is supply, according to my upholsterer. 

    Thanks Steve and Esty for the dye endorsement. Btw, here's a pic. My front seats are in fantastic condition, just need re-stuffing. The rear seats were chewed up.

    Thanks!

     

     

     

    IMG_20200828_153617371.jpg

     

     

    • Like 1
  10. Hi all - I have a 1600 with a medium brown interior, Florida green exterior.  My upholsterer has hit a wall in trying to source brown vinyl that's in the ballpark with the door cards that are in fine condition. I'm not expecting a perfect match.

    GAHH and World don't have browns. A few other sources say they're back logged.

     

    Anyone have this issue or suggestions?

     

    Thanks.

  11. Price: $1
    Location: Chicago, IL


    Description:

    Parts are related to a '68 1600. All used unless noted. If no price, offer welcome. Shipping extra.

     

    ·       Rear license plate lights – Good condition, working. $35

    ·       Fuel pump - $20

    ·       Coolant hose – BMW Part #64 21 1 356 170

    ·       Fuel filler hose – early model

    ·       Fan - $10

    ·       *NEW Bosch ballast resistor # 0227 901 0 13 – 6 ohms

    ·       Brake booster – This booster was painted and tested. It didn't work well enough to use. Likely needs to refurb.

    IMG_20210412_160753251.jpg

    IMG_20210412_160903713.jpg

    IMG_20210412_160127581.jpg

    IMG_20210412_160139196.jpg

    IMG_20210412_160025933.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155930046.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155916578.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155645705.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155710556.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155727427.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155747597.jpg

    IMG_20210412_112120862.jpg

  12. Price: $1
    Location: Chicago, IL


    Description:

     

     

    GARAGE CLEAN OUT – 1600 parts: brake booster, license plate light set, fuel pump

    Parts are related to a '68 1600. All used unless noted

     

    ·       Rear license plate lights – Good condition, working. SOLD

    ·       Fuel pump

    ·       Coolant hose – BMW Part #64 21 1 356 170

    ·       Fuel filler hose – early model

    ·       Fan

    ·       *NEW Bosch ballast resistor # 0227 901 0 13 – 6 ohms

    ·       Brake booster – This booster was refurbished, painted and tested. It didn't work well enough to use. Likely needs to refurb.

     

     

     

    IMG_20210412_160127581.jpg

    IMG_20210412_160139196.jpg

    IMG_20210412_160025933.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155930046.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155916578.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155645705.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155710556.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155727427.jpg

    IMG_20210412_155747597.jpg

    IMG_20210412_112120862.jpg

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