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About Laura

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  1. nice. Is the photography your own?
  2. Check it out! The right side is 'before', left is 'after' No buffing wheel or anything! Just clay bar, surface compound, and turtle wax! STEPS: 1. Wash surface 2. Rub clay into surface, use water to help it slide across surface. Massage into paint so it picks up dirt and such. 3. Towel dry 4. Use a clean rag and rubbing compound, in circular motions around the surface 5. Wax surface. Let wax become opaque, then remove TADA!
  3. Laura

    Body work

    So this started as a California Car.....then I moved to Michigan. That sweet California patina turned into some good 'ole fashioned Michigan Rust. I wasn't planning to do any bodywork yet - but I already had the interior out (see other post), so I figured I'd nip it in the but while it was easily accessed. The rust isn't too bad - no holes, and it's upper body rust (Cali style) instead of ground- up. The rust is along the rear driver's side window. STEPS Prep area - Unscrew the window (there's two areas it's held in place), pop it out. - carefully take the window seal off the body (I stress carefully, if you don't want to spend $50 on another seal) - Use Needle-nose pliers to press (carefully) welding rivets on the chrome plate (on the flat area, where the metal isn't shiney, under the window) - take out the chrome - Mask off any areas you don't want to mess us (if you drip bondo somewhere you don't want). I'd at least mask off remaining chrome bits on door) Remove Rust - First, I sanded all the surface areas that had rust, by hand. Make sure you use something stiff under the sanding paper so you don't get low-spots in your surface. The removed the looser rust and dust. - The next level, I used a small wheel to gently grind the rusted areas, again, working to keep the surface even. - Most of the rust is removed at this point - aside from the parts that are deeper into the surface (like tiny potholes) - I used a small dremel with a sanding tip to get the remaining rusty bits. No more rust should be visible. - Lastly, I used a rust-eating gel on the exposed metal. This is really gentle, and didn't seem to do that much - but should get any remaining dots of dust left behind. Bondo and Primer Prep -Mix Bondo (I generally aim for a light pink color so it dries slower) - Use a plastic bondo speader to apply the bondo to the surface. Aim to have the least amount of bondo possible, while still covering the areas. Use the speader along the surface so the surface of the bondo matches your car. - When cured, mask off edges with thick painters tape, and sand to the edge, then switch masking and sanding sides. This makes sure you don't loose any edges on the surface of the car. - Sand the bondo, in diagonal cross-strokes across the surface. Make sure to use something stiff under the sanding paper to maintain a smooth surface. I think I used 300 grit. - Mask off all the areas that don't have bondo. Cover as much as the car as you can. Leave an inch or so room around the bondo area for primer feathering Primer - Use a catalyzed Primer. There's two parts - the primer, and hardener. Mix carefully. - I used a gravity-feed spray gun, and an air compressor to use the gun. Use a breathing mask and safety glasses when you spray. - Spay a thin coat at first. even and long diagonal strokes. - Allow primer a few minutes between each coat. Just long enough for it to not be shiny anymore. - Let cure. Sand - Use flexible pro-painters tape (you can find it at Finish Masters). It's thicker plastic, and bends around edges, and is water resistant. - Use the tape to maintain any edges as you sand. Take the tape off any re-apply to opposite areas as you move around - Wet- with something stiff behind the paper, in cross-diagonal strokes. Sand evenly around the surface to avoid lows. - Start with 400-ish grit. End at 1,000 grit. Use water to check surfaces (make sure the reflections are lined up smoothly. Huge plus if you have overhead florescent lights to check surface continuity.) ...haven't painted surface yet, but that would be the next step. For now, I'm leaving the primer, since I'll be painting the entire car down the road. End result should be a smooth, rust-free surface!
  4. Finally getting around to posting some photos from my interior re-vamp. Never been a fan of that 1970's tan - so used vinyl dye on the parts and made it all black. Got some black leather Ricaro front seats (the dye doesn't last long on seats if you sit on them), and a new carpet. Everything else is just cleaning and dye. STEPS: Take out the interior (huge pain the ass) -unbolt the front seats from racks, unscrew the racks from the floor -pop out the back cover on the rear seat -unbolt the top of the rear bench, then the bottom -pop off the smoker-window knob (round adjuster). This was hard to take off. There's a little pinhole on the inside of the plastic - you gotta use a paperclip to pop it off. It's really hard to see, but you gotta look for it through the window on the opposite side of the car. -Unscrew the window crank, door handles, speakers, etc. -pop off the door panels (held in place with pressure clips) -unbolt center console, shifter boot, and underside dash cover. -unbolt seat belts, rear speakers -Take out carpet, set aside (if you buy a new carpet, you'll want to compare them for cutting spots and sizing) Clean and Dye -Use interior cleaner, or soap and water. Make sure the surface is dry before you paint. -Mask off any chrome bits with painters tape. -Fill shift boot with paper so it's easier to paint evenly -wear a mask when you paint. This shit is bad for you. -Spray a thin coat of Vinyl and Fabric Dye (you should still see original color through paint). This allows a sticky, tacky layer to prevent dripping -Spray dye in long horizontal paths, thin coats. Let dry a couple minutes between coats (it dries pretty fast) -Let dry. I just got the new carpet, will put it in when it's a bit warmer (I'm in Michigan, and it's 1 degree out. Yuck.)
  5. Laura


  6. Haha, Yes, I'm aware of the events in Monterey, but it is usually poor-form to leave your own wedding for a couple hours to take some photos. Someone offered up their sweet car though, so thanks! I'm actually going to be starting my honeymoon off with the Historic races. Wish I could go to Concours, but tickets are too expensive! -L
  7. @jgerock Yes, I have a workshop manual, as well as the factory one. This isn't my first project car, just the first one this extensive. I've never done block work before, and it just makes me nervous. Yeah, I have access to a jack-stand, but my driveway isn't very flat, and my garage isn't great - really more of a large shack with a garage door (main motivation for finding anew house!) -I'll look into Blunt Tech, thanks! I just got a quote for the engine rebuild from a MI shop this forum recommended, but it's way out of my price range, so I'm definitely going to do the work myself. About the posting....I'm new to the forum. I thought I was posting everything to the same thread? Was I not?
  8. Thanks! I would like it to be moderately good condition, but it doesn't need to be show-ready. It will be in my wedding photos, so I just wouldn't want it to look like a hooptie. I'd LOVE to get a Mint-Green one (that's the color of mine), but I'm up for anything except white (it would blend in with my white wedding dress, and I want the car to standout!) Thanks for responding!
  9. Hey Everyone! So. I'm getting married in Santa Cruz, but can't bring my 2002 from Michigan for my photos! I really really wanted to have my car in my wedding photos, and I'm so crushed. Would anyone be willing to rent your 2002 for my wedding photos?? Bonus if yours is Mint-Green like mine!! I'd only need it for about an hour, so I can take photos with it before and after the ceremony (you can stay with your car, I don't expect you to leave me alone with it). The wedding is August 20th. I don't have a ton of $$, but name your price. I can also offer up my artwork (I'm a car designer by trade), and I could do some custom artwork of your car, or a pen sketch.... (some older samples below) Thanks (and sorry for such a weird request!) -Laura
  10. That comment is hilarious considering your profile photo. LOL. next time You ever go to Cars & Coffee at Pastieners?
  11. If everything else works (ish), Would it be cheaper to just buy the short block? If I did swap the motor entirely, I wanted to put in the E30 S14 motor. But it is pricey, so I was planning to do it down the road. I think I can get ahold of a hoist actually.....
  12. If you want the minimalist look of the Euro bumper, and don't want carve into the metal, you could remove the stock bumper, and attach some Rally style lights. Just don't overdo it and make your car look like the Nuclear Simpsons Fish. (random internet pic, can't find a pic of my friend's car that did this)
  13. Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. It's been a few years since I've had a project car (I'd say I'm a bit rusty...but I'm in Michigan, where everything is rusty), and I've never tackled a project this extensive. So I cleaned out the Cylanders, and most of the rust wiped right off - but yup, #3 had some rust into the metal. Ouch. I don't have a cherry picker, so this is where my abilities end. I guess I gotta take it to a shop. I'll update you guys when something more interesting happens. Can't afford to pay for motor work yet, I'm getting married in August. Wedding planning is far less fun than working on my car.
  14. Hey is anyone heading to the M1 Concours Cars and Coffee this Saturday? ...I'll be there.

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