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About Drosselhebel

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  1. Ask an esoteric question, and you may receive an answer.

  2. If that head checks out with no cracks, it looks like it would be a fine candidate for welding. Welding just for the purpose of repairing minor corrosion at the cooling galleys isn't very difficult or expensive, and there shouldn't be any issue with longevity.
  3. The euro E12 518 also had the small-port two barrel manifold.
  4. I think this the same car that was used in that Will Smith "drunk superhero" movie a few years back. Atlantic-ish squarelight with roundie wheels.
  5. Toby has it right - the early 3-bolt MT flanges have a different bolt circle than the later 3-bolt MT flanges. The automatic 3-bolt flanges are indeed larger as jgerock mentions. I'd swap a later 4-bolt MT flange to the 1600 driveshaft as the easiest method of adaptation. The driveshaft tube diameter is the same iirc.
  6. To adjust the ratio of the pedal stroke you can vary the length of the lever arm that the input connects to. A shorter length increases modulation and longer length reduces modulation. I've always set full throttle in the way that you describe, and then play with the input lever length to get the in-car pedal travel where I want it. Setup's looking good!
  7. You're doing it right. Get the mechanical syncronisation happy, and the calibration via jetting and chokes becomes [relatively] easy. This carb sync tool works very well in my experience - some people hate them and prefer the snail type, but it's very difficult to fit the snail type on cylinder #3. You've obviously done your homework on the mechanical setup (it looks beautiful). Those particular steel throttle levers can have a tendency to slip on the relay shaft. You can roughen them on the I.D. with a round file, and file a little material away from the pinch/clamping surfaces to give them a little more snug fit. Once you've verified proper sync, a small tack weld between the levers and relay shaft is not a bad idea (you'll still have fine adjustment on the drop links). Or, you can weld the levers to 2-piece split collars for a more secure grip, 8mm or 5/16" work fine. On a similar engine with a bit more compression I used F16 emulsion tubes, .135 main jets, .190 air correctors, 55f9 idle jets, and .40 pump jets with 35mm chokes with good results (about 120 RWHP). On the dyno I had slightly better horsepower with .140 main jets, but the driveability felt better most of the time with .135. Make sure your distributor is working properly and set ignition timing for ~34 degrees total advance, assuming high octane pump gas. Measurement is the key. A wideband oxygen sensor will tell you everything you need to know and is cheaper than dyno time.
  8. You probably need more bleeding, and/or double-check the rear shoe adjustment. The brake pedal should start to firm up near the top of travel.
  9. The problem really manifests when you drive '68, '74 and '76 2002s daily in asymmetric rotation. It's not until you slow for a turn that it sets in....
  10. Nice photos! I'm in love with that Riviera 1600.
  11. I really enjoyed your writeup - fun read. I wonder if turn-signal anxiety is diagnosable.
  12. ...And with how long that thing looks, when you lift in 2nd it will knock you in the forearm and make you turn left.
  13. Screech could be v-belt, alternator, water pump, or something driveline or brake related. Your description would rule out release bearing noise, but could be pilot bearing. To start with try spraying the v-belt with silicone lube while running, and check weep hole on the underside of the water pump for dribbles. Wiggle the water pump pulley with the engine off; any play is abnormal. If you can induce the sound at idle, check alternator body with a stethoscope or long screwdiver held to your ear (not on the B+ terminal of course.) Make sure v-belt is not loose, it should have about 10mm deflection (check alternator bushes and alt ground strap too.) Regarding smoke, yes, the majority is probably guides and seals. Have you adjusted the valves? Valve adjustment does have an impact on compression readings; make sure the clearances are right before assuming rings are bad. A leakdown test is more telling than a compression test.
  14. The 320/6 has drums on the rear, not discs. The drums are still a good 2002 upgrade, but forget about the trailing arms as they're the same as any 4-cyl E21. The front hubs are good to rob for big brakes. There are a lot of unique parts on a 320/6 (intake manifold, carb, exhaust manifold, etc.) but there's not much for use for a 2002.
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