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About Drosselhebel

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  1. Heads with just the "121" designation did exist and I've seen a few. I believe that they were from the very earliest 2.0 engines fitted to NK sedans and had the 44mm intake valves. Most of the original early Tii heads I've seen were of the "121T" variety.
  2. Yes, several people here have tested and documented different springs and you'll find information scattered about in multiple posts and replies on the FAQ. I've tested most of the available options myself, but I haven't kept all of my notes so my recollection is mostly anecdotal. Ask me what the initial and terminal rates are on an S/T, IE, Eibach, or H&R spring and I can probably give you a pretty close ballpark answer. The more common question here is something along the lines of "how much does it lower my car?" rather than "what do I need in the rear to help balance my car in turn 9 at Willow with 205 bias ply race tires, 2 degrees negative camber and a 19mm bar?"
  3. If your stock lug nuts were for steel wheels, do not use them for alloys. Stock lug nuts and steel wheels have a shallow seating area, alloys use a deeper lug and seat.
  4. @Mike A A few reasons. Most of the manufacturers for spring "kits" don't publish technical information on the basis that it is proprietary, and most consumers probably don't own a spring tester or want to be bothered with learning how to calculate spring values based on spring geometry and wire diameter. In my experience many just want to be told what "works" with whatever damper. Adding to that, several of the spring kits available for 2002s are progressively wound, so the initial rates are quite different than what you measure as you approach the bump stop, and their free lengths may not be indicative in a linear way to what the resulting ride height will be.
  5. NickVyse answers above that both of those features are normal for a European-spec '70. Here in the US we lost the dash with chrome applique at the end of 1967, and all US1600-2/1602 cars through 1971 were eqipped with the single-circuit front brakes. Thanks Nick!
  6. Have the front brakes and strut housings been updated? I'm fairly certain that this car would have had single-circuit front brakes from the factory. The dual-circuit brakes are a good functional and safety upgrade though. It would also appear that the dash is from an earlier car. Nice car!
  7. There were a couple of different versions of the air pump bracket, with and without the dipstick tube integrated. Re: boring to 89mm I've seen it done, but I sure wouldn't attempt it. Not enough material in the cylinder walls to make it safe.
  8. It's a '68-'71 1600 engine. The dipstick tube is not really the later style. If you remove the bracket you'll find a large square hole behind it instead of the hole with press-in sleeve of the later 2l engines. The square hole is a bit further forward on the block iirc.
  9. Probably needs bigger chokes to go much further. I'd suggest trying 38mm on the existing jetting and see how it leans out.
  10. For an improved stock-appearing M10, use a '75 49-state exhaust manifold with aluminum heat shield, and internally plug the connections to the diverter valve, cyclone filter and air pump. Notch out the stock air cleaner base for a 32/36DGV. Given a good engine, functional distributor and a well-tuned CARB-legal 32/36 carburetor, it will run cleaner on a smog dyno than a stock example with all of the stone-age smog equipment intact and functional, and you can retain all of the superficial vacuum plumbing for visual inspection's sake.
  11. 4x4 mode is normal for a completely stripped '02. When reassembled and fully trimmed look for about 7.75" height to the pinch line at the lower front fenders.
  12. Are you sure that those aren't front springs? The V/O I think stands for Vorn. Vorn = "Front" IIRC the rear should be marked "H/A" for Heck. Heck = "Rear"
  13. The 1.8i head is already a pretty good design in terms of efficiency. You can optimize it a bit though. Do some mild port work (port match and blend valve pockets, cc chambers, etc) and install a mild cam such as a 284 and you'll be doing great. You don't need/want big valves or a radical cam if you're staying with the stock L-Jet. For what you'll be doing a reground cam would be just fine and every bit as durable as factory.
  14. Oh wow, Taiga? Looks fantastic so far. *edit - missed the earlier paint post. oops.
  15. This will surely be the first non-Turbo non-Tii car to reach and surpass $150K in value :) How's it coming brotha?

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