wilfredski

Unbelievable! Thanks so much @visionaut

Does anyone know the screw and washer part numbers used to assemble the actual centre console itself? I have a long centre console kit in bits and need to screw it together. Also, anyone have a pic of where the screws were installed on the consoles ex factory please?

I've installed the 123 (programmable bluetooth version) and car is running so much better! I do have a slight ripple in part throttle conditions, so I thought 'd try the vacuum advance by tapping into the vacuum on the underside of the throttle body. However when I disconnect the factory hose currently attached to the underside of the throttle body, and connect the vacuum port of the dizzy to the vacuum nipple under the throttle body, the car almost stalls and continues to run badly. Am I doing something wrong? 1. When I disconnect the vacuum hose that's currently on the throttle body and leave it hanging, the engine still idles nicely (this is the hose connected half way down the bigger breather hose connecting the air filter to the valve cover). 2. If I put my finger over the hole on the throttle body at idle I feel good vacuum (as you'd expect), and the car nearly stalls. 3. Plugging the end of the factory tube I've disconnected from the throttle body makes no difference. Feels like there's very little if any vacuum. 4. Seems like the current config allows air to be sucked into the throttle body by the factory hose fitting getting air from the valve cover/air filter. 5. If I keep the factory config and tap into that vacuum line that's connected between the throttle body and the breather hose with a tee, the car runs fine (no difference), but there's virtually no vacuum on the live parameters (-0.1kPa). So I'm not sure how to get the actual vacuum from the throttle body without affecting how it runs. Or does it need to be tuned for this config somehow?

Wow, unbelievable knowledge here. Thank you. Based on the advice (thanks @rstclark @dlacey), I've found the vacuum port under the throttle body. I now realise my 75 2002tii with E12 head and 009 distributor is a slightly uncommon combination so I've swapped out my 123 with pre-programmed curves, to the programmable bluetooth 123. @dlacey I'd love some of the tuning programs you suggested please. What's the best strategy for getting the tune just right? Should I be loading these tunes as a starting point then go to a dyno? Do I just tell the dyno people I'm looking to get the advance curves right? Anyone happen to know a good dyno place in Sydney please?

Thanks all. Makes more sense now with the slightly different E12 head and distributor setup. My distributor isn’t shown on the 123 preset tunes that I can find. Would the 008 tune (#4) be the closest? Or better to return the 123 “switch” and get the programmable one? @Son of Marty unfortunately my original distributor doesn’t seem to be playing ball, despite many hours of effort from those more knowledgeable than me. I couldn’t find a reliable rebuild option, hence the 123. I chose the 123 with pre-programmed curves because I gather they are an exact copy of the BMW tune.

(re-posted here. Accidentally posted in "ti" forum). I’m looking to install a 123 ignition “switch” model distributor to my UK delivered 6/75 2002tii. I’m wondering if I should be connecting the vacuum port on the distributor to the vacuum system and whether it will improve performance. All my searches turn up either US models or different distributor models and setups. I read varying things about whether tii’s had vacuum distributors (advance or retard) but I’m not sure if they only relate to US specific cars. My distributor model is 0 231 151 009 and it does not have vacuum on it. Is it possible my car/kugelfischer is setup so it doesn’t need/want vacuum connected? Or is vacuum always better because the 123 distributor will perform better with it connected even if the car didn’t originally have it? The 123 documentation seems to say it will work better if it is attached. In which case I don’t know where to take the vacuum from. I am trying to keep the car as original as possible, but concede electronic ignition is straying a fair bit! Cheers.

Oops! I was one “i” short! I’ll re-post in General. Sorry all.

Thanks Jgerock & Dlacey, I love this forum! All very helpful thank you. Pretty keen to see if I can find the vacuum port you mention @dlacey. I’ll be sure to swap out my battery for a smaller one next time. I needed the most cranking amps possible before I replaced my starter motor which was sucking amps and barely turning the engine. Not needed now. @dlacey thanks for the offer of 123 programs but mine is the “switch” so only able to select the pre-programmed option for the tii curve. I am wondering if I should have bought the programmable one though…

I’m looking to install a 123 ignition “switch” model distributor to my UK delivered 6/75 2002tii. I’m wondering if I should be connecting the vacuum port on the distributor to the vacuum system and whether it will improve performance. The issue is all my searches turn up either US models or different distributor models and setups. I read varying things about whether tii’s had vacuum distributors (advance or retard) but I’m not sure if they only relate to US specific cars. My distributor model is 0 231 151 009 and it does not have vacuum on it. Is it possible my car/kugelfischer is setup so it doesn’t need/want vacuum connected? Or is vacuum always better because the 123 distributor will perform better with it connected even if the car didn’t originally have it? The 123 documentation seems to say it will work better if it is attached. In which case I don’t know where to take the vacuum from. I am trying to keep the car as original as possible, but concede electronic ignition is straying a fair bit! Cheers.

That’s good enough for me. Thanks guys.

Hoping for some help please for my RHD 1975 2002tii. Can anyone tell me what these two nipples are for? First one. Looking from under engine bay. Front of car is to the left. Looks like the clutch system. Spare nipple. Should that be connected to a vacuum line? Or is it some sort of bleed? Looking from below now. Left is to rear of car. Looking down. Left of photo is rear of car. Second nipple. Looking down into engine bay. Top of photo is front of car...

Thanks Steve et al for getting to the bottom of this. Incredibly helpful knowledge base!

Does anyone know if the UK or Australian markets got the 1-piece dash? I’ve been unsuccessfully trying to source one for my RHD tii (June ‘75). A couple of specialist 2002 wreckers I know say they’ve only ever seen 2-piece dashes even on 75-76 squaries. Could the 1-piece possibly have only gone to some markets like the US? Or maybe only LHD? Cheers.

Stereo unfortunately. Alternator not keeping up. Haven’t been able to find anyone in Sydney who does it unfortunately. Cheers guys.

Anyone know what’s involved in mounting the higher output later model e21 alternators (eg AL49X) to a 2002tii? Wondering if the lower mounting position of the tii helps...

Thanks Steve, Ok I think I’ll buy all the black vinyl covers at the same time from “world upholstery” (front and rear seats) to ensure the dye and vinyl is consistent. I’ll cover the 1975 front seats I’ve sourced already, then hopefully source and cover a 1975 rear seat here in Australia at some stage to replace the 1969 rear seat currently installed. Very much appreciate your insight. Mark.

Done anyone know if you can put late model 1975 vinyl covers on early model 1969'ish REAR seats please? I have an early model rear seat with the pleats all the way across, but want to update my interior to period-correct 1975. New covers I'm looking to buy... B Early model seat "carcass"...

Thanks Steve, great idea! I just emailed the archives. I could be convinced to swap out the interior for the correct vintage - an unfortunate glitch in my personality to chase something I'm not sure I can achieve! Cheers, Will.

That's helpful. So it sounds like a reasonably consistent donor vintage across the board. I was told the white plastic button on the side of the steering column is some sort of injector that assists with the start by squirting extra fuel into the engine. Seems to do the job however it works. Interestingly my 2002 restorer's guide mentions the air snorkel hole and an apparent long running debate around whether BMW actually originally produced some Tii's with that nose section from factory. Apparently they might have used the parts interchangeably depending on stock levels or markets... or so the theory goes. Although as you say Mike Self in this case it's highly likely a replacement given the rest of my car! Maybe it's best not to fight the "retro" interior and maybe just restore what I have... could avoid going down a rabbit hole with parts availability as it is. BTW, does anyone know where I could find a replacement for my unusual RHD accelerator pedal?

Really appreciating the experts on this forum. Thank you. Certainly seems like a previous owner might have done a swap of much of the interior at some stage. Heck of a project! I've attached more pics which I believe show parts of the dash and gear stick mounting are from the late 60s era too (maybe not instrument cluster, or clock? Aftermarket steering wheel I presume?). Seems almost unbelievable how much might have been swapped. I've included a pic of the engine bay to see if the experts here can pick if anything else is odd. Like I said, the chassis and engine numbers check out. It's certainly a Tii engine and other elements seem to verify it is a Tii chassis too. Like the boxed in rear suspension and two mounts for the air filter. But I'm certainly no expert on this. On the plus side, I really do like the older vintage interior and seats with the chrome so not sure if I'd go to the effort to swap it out even if I could source and afford all the bits! Just need to work out my objective with a restoration I guess. Thoughts?

Thanks Guys. I've checked my VIN etched into the chassis (which matches the engine number) using bimmercat.com and it confirms a June 1975 2002Tii. SydneyTii, do your door panels look anything like mine?

I'm looking to replace my front seat upholstery with original vinyl from world upholstery but I'm confused by the vintage. All seats including the rear bench seem to indicate a vintage of 1969 - 1973. I've checked the VIN and it's a 6/1975 built 2002Tii. Is it possible that Australian (or European) spec models had different upholstery vintages? Or is it possible a previous owner replaced all interior seats in including the rear and backrest? Maybe even the door panels too? Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks in advance.

Simeon, you are 100% correct! It is a Koni. I'm now confused again. It's definitely the original damper style as described in the BMW repair manual (below). The bits that came out of it were all identical. But it looks like it's been etched in the year 1996 probably by the guy who installed it, so it doesn't appear to be original to the car. Maybe he had a spare full insert available for renewal? Just when you think you have the full story... Gotta love these old cars giving up their secrets. Reluctantly!

An update for those who are faced with this issue in the future: It's all good news. The sleeve insert finally came out. You can see the mechanic welded a bolt to the insert so it could be pulled out of the strut. He said it was well and truly wedged in there and took quite a bit of force to remove. But here's the pics showing the insert narrowing at the bottom showing why the new shocks are longer than the original oil filled dampers. New Billy HD shocks slid in perfectly with a little oil. H&R sport springs completed the install!