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About digdoug

  • Birthday 12/23/1971

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    Bethesda, MD

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  1. @jhp I have more interior pics, haven't ever had the rear seat out, but I'd guess the condition is similar to the rest of the car. Someone also asked (privately) about how the seats are mounted, so here are more interior pics to shed some light Another question about the valance. Looks good to me I forgot to mention I have an entire set of hard brake lines you can take with the car. Hope this helps!
  2. Had a few requests for body pictures to assess rust. The car is not rust fee. It's been garaged for the 6 years I have owned it and rarely driven - so what is there hasn't gotten worse. Driver's side: Going down the passenger side. Happy to add more, just ask. Thanks!
  3. Selling my project car, partnering up with my brother on a boat project. The car has the motor from a donor '76, but the original, numbers-matching engine is included (needs a rebuild). New rear drums, pads, cylinders New clutch braided steel line and slave cyl Newly resurfaced flywheel New steering parts, ball joints, tire rods, etc. New braided front brake lines New Weber 32/36 New water pump Newish hoses New tires New valve stem seals, head gasket New battery New brake booster check valve The car runs reasonably well, but the battery drains slowly when the car is off. The exhaust is fairly loud - who knows, you may like that. I've inspected the oil pump and it looks like new. In one picture, you can see the VDO oil pressure gauge I installed (in a very non-permanent way) to verify oil pressure, which is spot on. Compression, as I recall is good. Previous owner installed a Carter electric fuel pump - I added a regulator and gauge. Buyer should install a fuel pump shutoff switch for safety. Ignition is MSD 6A and rotor/cap/wires and reasonably new. I resealed and refilled the 4-speed a while back. It is quiet and smooth and shifts with almost no effort at all. It does drip a drop or two of gear oil every now and again, have not tracked down the source of that. Seats are from an Acura Integra, so I am told. The color scheme is Chamonix w/ blue interior, but years ago, someone went nuts with spray paint. Now the paint is checking a bit, giving that highly-sought-after rattle-can patina. The 14" wheels are from a company called Rage. Chinese-made I think, and I kind of like them. The belt trim is adhesive tape, not real. Differential is an open one and its old. It likes to leak a little bit of oil. Buyer should consider rebuilding/replacing. I have quite a few extra parts I would love to give the buyer, including Old Weber 38/38 An old alternator Radiator shroud Extra E21 head 2 4-speed manual transmissions. Yours to take, plus there's probably more. Your choice. the only thing you must take is the original engine for the car. It's on a homemade dolly (you can see in the picture) which you can take and keep. If you are seriously interested and would like to see some close-up pictures of anything, DM me and I will try to honor those requests as best I can.
  4. Apologies for replying to my own thread but did a search and found these: Both of which are informative. Anyone have anything to add? These Metelli parts have a 2 year, 24k mile warranty (apparently).
  5. Hi, Does anyone have experience with those Metelli read drum cylinders (part number 04-0416). They're like less than $10 at Pelican. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/34211101760.htm?pn=34-21-1-101-760-M695 Is this a "get what you pay for" situation or are they adequate? Of the standard brands - Brembo, Beck Arnley, etc. - do you find some are better than others? Thanks. DW
  6. Not getting anywhere, but slowly eliminating variables. Tonight, I: 1. Disconnected the choke linkage to the throttle. 2. Set the idle speed screw to baseline, 1.5 turns after impact. 3. Set idle mix screw to baseline, 2 turns out. 4. disconnected and plugged vacuum line to distributor advance. 5. Once car was warm and choke open, wedged throttle to 2800 rpm and rotated distributor until ball was rock solid in the window (picked up an advance timing light from Amazon Prime last night, showed up this afternoon - having the rpm reading right in front of you is super handy) No idle - not even close. I moved the idle mix screw .5 turns both in and out to see if that made any difference, but nope - once it's hot, this motor will not idle at all. So thus far we've eliminated the following: compression (not amazing but within spec), spark, spark timing (at 2800 at least), vacuum and mechanical advance seem to be working, what's next? Valve adjustment I guess.
  7. Well, I sort of made progress today. I re-indexed the distributor one tooth clockwise so I had more room to rotate the distributor body (the vacuum pod was hitting the valve cover) and found the BB fairly easily with my timing light. The good news is the ball doesn't jump around - the bad news is I did it at the wrong rpm (1500ish) so i'll have to do it tomorrow at 2800. Took a quick look at the corrector jets, 160 and 170. Couldn't read the main jets, will pull them out when I get a little more time. Will disconnect choke linkage and redo the timing, set the carb to baseline settings and report back.
  8. I didn't adjust it, or at least I don't remember doing it. I distinctly remember setting the float height, that's about it. Great advice, I'll do this tomorrow.
  9. In the attached photos, you can see the idle screw, fully bottomed, then not engaged at all. Just started it now and it idled fine until it got warm, more and more unstable, then stalled. I guess the gameplan is to get one of my kids or neighbors to try to hold the rpm steady at just shy of 1500 rpm and try and line up that BB. If I disconnect the vacuum advance hose, is there any advance at all? Could I then line up that BB at a higher rpm, like 2000?
  10. Yeah, no, I got the two screws right - it's definitely the idle speed screw I am referring to. I agree there my be an issue with the linkage. I'll post a pic later tonight.
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