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  1. I like that idea. It's an automatic with no tach, but I get the idea.
  2. Here's a video, if that helps to clear up the color of the smoke.
  3. When I first got the car (4-5 years ago) it smoked pretty badly. I replaced the carb with a new weber 32/36 and things got tremendously better. Someone recommended twisting the distributor a little to get the ignition right and that also reduced the smoke I noticed at that time.
  4. I might be wrong about the color. It may have a tinge of blue to it that I considered as grey. I can definitely smell oil burning, but I will check the levels to see.
  5. I have a '74 that has started burning oil. I know this sounds basic, but how do I assess what needs to be done? It's a whitish/grey smoke and seems to get worse as the engine warms up while the car is being driven. I've adjusted the distributor to minimize the smoke and the carb was replaced a couple of years ago. It seems like valve guide/head rebuild comes up frequently in my searches. I have come across another head. It's a 1.8i head with the injector ports already filled, however, the combustion chamber on cylinder one looks a little chewed up around the flat part. Is the head replacement a good place to start or should I be looking at other possibilities?
  6. Wow, I didn't realize there would be so many strands in a 10 mm OD cable. Is the 25 mm2 the cross section of the strand bundle? And 10 mm the diameter including the insulation?
  7. I want to relocate my battery to the trunk and would like to use welding wire to run through a fuse to a terminal block in the engine compartment. I'm not sure what size of wire to get (and the fuse). The #2 wire is rated for about 200 A at 50 feet. The wire length will be much less than 50' and the starter shouldn't shouldn't draw current for more than a few seconds. Is a #2 welding wire suitable, or should I go with something larger? Also, for the fuse should it be sized based on the rated current of the wire (200A)? I guess... will that fuse blow if the starter briefly draws more than 200 A?
  8. cgates30


  9. Cool article. Along the lines of doing/enjoying...
  10. I'm hoping to find someone that's done exactly what I want, to a car exactly like mine . Just kidding. I've found a lot of different threads, but they're typically dealing the specific problem someone has encountered. I have all new hoses, roll over edge clamps, water pump, thermostat, and coolant. I'm not sure what else I need or what else I should do while I'm at it. I would like to have the radiator pressure checked and then re-cored/replaced if needed. I've seen lots of recommendations on 3 row, W&N, Behr, etc. I would also like to make the heater work. I realize this might be as big or bigger than just replacing the hoses, but if there's some time/money savings from doing them at the same time then that's what I'd do. (Money saved maybe only for coolant? Is there an overall time savings for doing both at same time from duplicating any efforts?) Here's my tentative plan: drain radiator Leave heater in the on position (how can I be sure the valve to let coolant run through the heater core is open? maybe its closed and that's why it doesn't heat during the winter) Remove thermostat and run water through the block, back through the drain on the radiator Pull radiator and take to a shop for pressure test Remove/replace fan (electric fans sound nice, but you lose the look... not sure here) open engine block coolant drain plug to drain water. Continue running water to make sure it is cleaned out. replace all hoses ??? Work on heater Put things back together and fill with fresh coolant/distilled water Is this the right process? '74 automatic with 32/36 DGAV (water choke) carb
  11. I'd like a set, please pm me with total price including shipping. Thanks
  12. Let me know if you're going to salvage the nose clip. Can't talk to the removal process, yet.
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