2002#3

I am going to let it seep from here to Arkansas and back. No issue. Runs like a champ otherwise. Will deal with it this summer after the M10 Rebuild Project is installed into its new digs, a 1970. Thanks, folks.

All, Sharp eyes. Coolant. Tightened clamp. No drip no more. Larry

Photo 1 Good spotting, SoM. Probably not a crack b/c it does not appear to continue onto the surface of the block... Photo 2 Additional questions: If the cover(s)-block omterface(s) are/might be the issue, why is there oil at the WP-TC interface (dashed area)? Would not the air flow prevent oil leaking from a cover-block interface to flow forward to the WP interface? ..or maybe oil can easily creep anywhere it damn well pleses...even against the wind...

1974 2002tii Yet nother post re: yet another seeping oil leak on yet another 02. Please be gentle. Typical 02 seeping oil leak from somewhere. After doing the often-recommended de-greasing, de-oiling, and drying of the engine I drove the piss out of the car, parked it, and let the leak it do its thing. Results: a nebulous and sequestered leak, as expected. The leak produces a 2-3 sq" sq puddle over a week or so. -- Oil pan bolts and all other accessable bolts were tight. -- No oil in the vicinity of the (i) distributor or its housing, (ii) exhaust studs, (iii) inside the bell housing where the rear main seal would leak, and (iv) top of the rear head bolts. -- Oil mostly on driver's side areas of (i) sides of upper and lower TC covers, (ii) along oil pan gasket, (iii) drip from the bell housing cover, and (iv) exhaust support at the transmission. -- The only drip is from the aforementioned cover. QUESTION 1: As an initial approach, may I assume the problem is related to the TC covers (and their widely known propensity to leak...and prevent surface rust) and skip the other profusely FAQ-discussed usual suspects? NOTE: I know the importance of sealing the two special upper cover-lower cover-engine block junctions. QUESTION 2: Might the wet exhaust bracket be a separate issue and not related to oil blow-back? Photos are attached. Yellow indicates areas which are wet- with oil. Thanks.

I need a fuel pump pushrod (long, 107 mm, part number 13311250398).

Good point there. Seems so many modern headlights, especially those on SUVs and pickups, are excessively bright. They can't all be misaligned...

Nicely lighted path forward. Have you checked to see how the lights appear to on-coming traffic?

Just so I know...are we discussing the clicking noise audible only in the low idle video?

Thanks. Much-Needed-Clarification: (i) All parts (emulsion tubes, jets, etc.) were removed from body and lid, (ii) both the lid and body were thoroughly cleaned in an ultrasonic tank, (iii) brake cleaner was squirted into all empty orifices including the empty emulsion tube holes, and (iv) I still could not see cleaner coming out of 3 of the 5 progression holes. So, I don't think the emulsion tubes are a problem. I assumed the progression holes are served by fuel which flows from the bowl to the emulsion tubes and then to the idle and progression holes. That is why I also assumed forcing cleaner into the emulsion tube holes was a good way to clean the progression hole pathways. Keep your thoughts coming, please.

While rebuilding a Weber 32/36, I decided to make sure the channel to each progression hole was open. I had already cleaned the completely disassembled carb body ad naseaum. I blew brake cleaner into every orifice I could find; however, cleaner squirted from only 2 of the 3 primary (32) progression holes and neither of the 2 secondary (36) progression holes. Total, 2 of 5. Q: Was my approach correct? Q: How do you folks check these channels, IF you check them at all? Thanks.

sczapiga, It will be attached in a week or so. After that, the new engine will go from its build garage to my garage. Then remove an old engine, give the engine bay a good enema and cleaning, and install the new engine.

Today I received a lightweight flywheel for my M10 rebuild project.

ajordan282, I used HEPU brand WP. $80. I have the info on this WP plus info on WPs I did not use. Give me a day or so to get the info from my garage. I will send it to you via PM. Larry

Murph, 1. The cam was timed according to the Schrick 292 spec instructions: #1 intake lobe at max height and #1 intake valve at max open...both at 110 degrees. I don't know if that means advanced or retarded compared to stock. 2. (i) The bolt holes in a new stock cam gear were elongated along the line of their rotation, i.e., curved, (ii) a new dowel was made, (iii) the cam was timed, (iv) new dowel holes in the cam gear and flange were drilled [where the new dowel would be covered by one of the lock strips], and (v) the new dowel was installed. So, I guess it could be called adjustable...as long a new dowel hole is drilled each time the cam is adjusted. However, that sounds like something you probably would not want to do. So, maybe it could be called non-adjustable. Photo: the old dowel hole (6:00) and a partially covered new dowel (9:00) are shown.

Here, I add little something to a previous FAQ M10/Elva post by Slavs (May 3, 2019): a coupe version of an Elva. I had never seen an Elva coupe, only the open race car, e.g., Lee Chapman's racer. The author, Richard Stern, is the 2002 editor/2002 section specialist for Straight Six, the magazine of the BMW Car Club of Great Britain. The last photo is the M10 in Lee Chapmen's 1964 Elva Mk78S race car (www.britishracecar.com/LeeChapman-Elva-Mk7S.htm). credit: Richard Stern, Straight Six, March, 2024, p. 39-40

Today I finished (for the most part) my M10 Rebuild Project. Only a few fiddly bits to add/do and then get it to my garage for its transplantation procedure. Details are in the posts within the "M10 Rebuild Project" thread on this site.

M10 Rebuild Part 28 (Water Pump and Oil Filter Housing) 99% Complete This project needs a few fiddly bits and then I can Bring It on Home to Me* at Gray's 02 Garage 10 miles away: an oil drain plug, some oil poured over the valve train and into the TC tensioner pocket, a VC gasket, tape over all openings, and installation of a JB Racing lightweight flywheel. So far I have 27 pages of rebuild notes and instruction accumulated while doing everything myself (certainly none of the machine work) under the watchful eye, tutelage, experience, and patience of my machinist, Mike Yust, at Zakira's Garage. I sincerely thank Mike, Brandon, Chris, and the other automotive experts at Zakira's for their patience, for putting up with me and my questions, and for (occasionally) laughing at my bad jokes. Rich and Bob, whatchatink? * Sam Cooke, 1962

Really cool photo of the green 1968 (?) Dodge Coronet 440. That was exactly the color, series, and style of our honeymoon sex wagon in 1971. Wow! That photo brought a huge smile. Thank you!

M10 Rebuild Part 28 (Timing Chain/Cover and Head) Today, I installed the timing chain, guide rail, tension rail, CS pulley, front seal, lower TC cover, head gasket, and the head. My machinist milled the (previously grooved) CS pulley "nose" and added a bespoke new smooth round "shim"(?), surface, collar, or whatever it's called for the front seal to enjoy.

Yep, a fat nut. It might not be wise to use it. The thin nut and Red Loctite might be the best combination. Safety wire would be a nice addition.

Your results are copacetic and similar to mine yesterday: new pump, two 0.1-mm shims, and 3-4 mm on each side of center.