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2002#3

Turbo
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Everything posted by 2002#3

  1. Good point there. Seems so many modern headlights, especially those on SUVs and pickups, are excessively bright. They can't all be misaligned...
  2. Nicely lighted path forward. Have you checked to see how the lights appear to on-coming traffic?
  3. Just so I know...are we discussing the clicking noise audible only in the low idle video?
  4. Thanks. Much-Needed-Clarification: (i) All parts (emulsion tubes, jets, etc.) were removed from body and lid, (ii) both the lid and body were thoroughly cleaned in an ultrasonic tank, (iii) brake cleaner was squirted into all empty orifices including the empty emulsion tube holes, and (iv) I still could not see cleaner coming out of 3 of the 5 progression holes. So, I don't think the emulsion tubes are a problem. I assumed the progression holes are served by fuel which flows from the bowl to the emulsion tubes and then to the idle and progression holes. That is why I also assumed forcing cleaner into the emulsion tube holes was a good way to clean the progression hole pathways. Keep your thoughts coming, please.
  5. While rebuilding a Weber 32/36, I decided to make sure the channel to each progression hole was open. I had already cleaned the completely disassembled carb body ad naseaum. I blew brake cleaner into every orifice I could find; however, cleaner squirted from only 2 of the 3 primary (32) progression holes and neither of the 2 secondary (36) progression holes. Total, 2 of 5. Q: Was my approach correct? Q: How do you folks check these channels, IF you check them at all? Thanks.
  6. sczapiga, It will be attached in a week or so. After that, the new engine will go from its build garage to my garage. Then remove an old engine, give the engine bay a good enema and cleaning, and install the new engine.
  7. Today I received a lightweight flywheel for my M10 rebuild project.
  8. Is the down tube a direct bolt-on to the stock center pipe? Thanks.
  9. ajordan282, I used HEPU brand WP. $80. I have the info on this WP plus info on WPs I did not use. Give me a day or so to get the info from my garage. I will send it to you via PM. Larry
  10. Murph, 1. The cam was timed according to the Schrick 292 spec instructions: #1 intake lobe at max height and #1 intake valve at max open...both at 110 degrees. I don't know if that means advanced or retarded compared to stock. 2. (i) The bolt holes in a new stock cam gear were elongated along the line of their rotation, i.e., curved, (ii) a new dowel was made, (iii) the cam was timed, (iv) new dowel holes in the cam gear and flange were drilled [where the new dowel would be covered by one of the lock strips], and (v) the new dowel was installed. So, I guess it could be called adjustable...as long a new dowel hole is drilled each time the cam is adjusted. However, that sounds like something you probably would not want to do. So, maybe it could be called non-adjustable. Photo: the old dowel hole (6:00) and a partially covered new dowel (9:00) are shown.
  11. Here, I add little something to a previous FAQ M10/Elva post by Slavs (May 3, 2019): a coupe version of an Elva. I had never seen an Elva coupe, only the open race car, e.g., Lee Chapman's racer. The author, Richard Stern, is the 2002 editor/2002 section specialist for Straight Six, the magazine of the BMW Car Club of Great Britain. The last photo is the M10 in Lee Chapmen's 1964 Elva Mk78S race car (www.britishracecar.com/LeeChapman-Elva-Mk7S.htm). credit: Richard Stern, Straight Six, March, 2024, p. 39-40
  12. Today I finished (for the most part) my M10 Rebuild Project. Only a few fiddly bits to add/do and then get it to my garage for its transplantation procedure. Details are in the posts within the "M10 Rebuild Project" thread on this site.
  13. M10 Rebuild Part 28 (Water Pump and Oil Filter Housing) 99% Complete This project needs a few fiddly bits and then I can Bring It on Home to Me* at Gray's 02 Garage 10 miles away: an oil drain plug, some oil poured over the valve train and into the TC tensioner pocket, a VC gasket, tape over all openings, and installation of a JB Racing lightweight flywheel. So far I have 27 pages of rebuild notes and instruction accumulated while doing everything myself (certainly none of the machine work) under the watchful eye, tutelage, experience, and patience of my machinist, Mike Yust, at Zakira's Garage. I sincerely thank Mike, Brandon, Chris, and the other automotive experts at Zakira's for their patience, for putting up with me and my questions, and for (occasionally) laughing at my bad jokes. Rich and Bob, whatchatink? * Sam Cooke, 1962
  14. Dang! I just checked and found I already have a set in place. Sorry for the trouble. I have been concentrating on my M10 rebuild project that I have not paid attention to my tii in a while. Completely forgot I had the clips. Your clips are nice and will make another tii very happy. What I would purchase from you is a set of sparkplug wire "holders" which also attach to the VC studs and nuts: one 3-wire and one 2-0wire. I cannot find them anywhere. Could you fabricate them...? Regards.
  15. Really cool photo of the green 1968 (?) Dodge Coronet 440. That was exactly the color, series, and style of our honeymoon sex wagon in 1971. Wow! That photo brought a huge smile. Thank you!
  16. M10 Rebuild Part 28 (Timing Chain/Cover and Head) Today, I installed the timing chain, guide rail, tension rail, CS pulley, front seal, lower TC cover, head gasket, and the head. My machinist milled the (previously grooved) CS pulley "nose" and added a bespoke new smooth round "shim"(?), surface, collar, or whatever it's called for the front seal to enjoy.
  17. I have made that harness for my 2002tii and can confirm your price is quite reasonable.
  18. I am nterested in your valve cover clips. Will you please post photos of same. Thank you.
  19. Yep, a fat nut. It might not be wise to use it. The thin nut and Red Loctite might be the best combination. Safety wire would be a nice addition.
  20. Your results are copacetic and similar to mine yesterday: new pump, two 0.1-mm shims, and 3-4 mm on each side of center.
  21. M10 Rebuild Part 27 (Oil Pump and Rear Main Seal) I installed a 320i oil pump, 2002 oil pickup arm, oil pipe, and rear main housing and seal. My machinist fabricated a 0.040" shim (the small T-shaped part in the 1st photo) to fit at the bottom of the spring and compress it a little. The top "hat" of the T is the shim and the stem fits into the spring. His experience building M10s has told him it increases oil pressure a tad and makes the engine a little happier. With two 0.1-mm shims and a 4-mm oil pump chain the total chain thumb pressure play was 7 mm (spec, <10 mm). I tried the commonly available and often mislabeled 5-mm chain and found it to have too much fore-aft play in the sprocket for my taste. The rear main seal was installed about 2 mm from bottoming out so the contact point of the new seal did not touch the part of the crankshaft flange worn by the previous seal. Thus, the new seal touches virgin crankshaft flesh. I do not have a jig to drill holes in nuts for safety wire, so I cleaned the pump shaft threads ad nauseam and used Loctite. I have a jig for bolt heads, so I will safety wire the four cam sprocket bolts and the oil spray bar bolt. Today, I ordered a 215-mm lightweight flywheel from JB Racing. Many FAQ comments and recommendations convinced me (i) a 228-mm flywheel is not necessary for this build and (ii) the 215-mm flywheel would easily handle the increased horsepower of this build.
  22. Joe, Torquing? Felt good? Ohhhhh, yeah. Good torquin' fills my loins with moist desire!
  23. M10 Rebuild Part 26 Installed crankshaft and pistons.
  24. What's with the black refrigerator shelf over the header in this car? Ultra Box Hiroshima // Hirotaka Fujiwara's BMW 2002 tii. | StanceNation™ // Form > Function WWW.STANCENATION.COM "What are your strengths? What can you bring to the table?" The interview is simultaneously stressful and a great relief. You spend considerable time and energy constructing a well-crafted résumé (printed on quality paper with attention-grabbing fonts!) to get through those doors...
  25. The M10 block I am assembling came with thin plain washers on the main caps. I have read on FAQ three versions of such washers: (i) BMW did not use washers. (ii) BMW used plain thin wave washers. (iii) Use the thick heavy washers like those used on the head. Opinions, please. Thanks
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