2002#3

Last Saturday here in Cincinnati, Zakira's Garage held an open house and cars and coffee. As a customer, I was asked to show my '74 tii for the day. During the event, I paid very little attention to a guy photographing my car from several angles. Today, the kind and generous folks at Zakira's sent me the photos below. A very nice surprise and Thank You from the guys who are machining my M10 project block and head.

Walnut. What is your power supply?

M10 Rebuild Part 17 Cylinders honed. Head decked.

John, Good for you! Yours looks much more stable and professional than mine. Limitless blasting to infinity and beyond...

Thanks so much Toby and Camel. You just saved me $40 or so. IOU.

Yes, Toby. The jig was really useful when I had to fabricate a linkage to connect two Solex PHH 40s, see accel squirt targets within the barrels, and see how well plates play together. All easier on the back and all impossible to do in situ.

Gravel parking lot.

Shaken. Still room temp.

From the little I could find on the ethernet, a DCOE brass float should weigh ~26 g. The assumed-to-be original brass floats in my Italian 40 DCOEs do not appear to have holes, do not rattle/slosh to suggest they have fuel inside, and weigh ~30 g and ~31 g . (I realize weighing plastic floats [~18 g] has it's it place to determine if plastic has absorbed any fuel.) Is ~26 g a magic number for brass floats? Any reason to think these need to be replaced with 26-g floats? Thanks.

M10 Rebuild Part 16 While I have been waiting for my machinist to wake up and do something, I decided to rebuild a pair of Italian Weber 40 DCOEs which will be used on the engine somewhere down the road, so to speak. I plan to start with a 38/38 and switch to duals later. Today I disassembled the DCOE #1. The throttle plates and shaft look new and work well so I left them in situ. I used my new DIY soda blaster on the body, ordered new brass cheese head screws for covers, and ordered rebuild kits. Tomorrow all reusable parts such as jets, pumps, etc. will be cleaned while I wait for bolts and a kit.

Ed, Exceedingly easy to buy, make, and use. It takes a little tweaking here and there for it to work sufficiently, e.g., psi settings, sealing it sufficiently, making sure the soda does not have lumps, learning how to manipulate it so soda is not wasted, etc. I used JB putty for attachment and JB black/white epoxy to seal leaks. Start with at least 12 lbs of soda to accommodate a learning curve. First Snapple bottle could not handle 80 psi - you can guess what happened. I used it only on the two intakes so far. More playing tomorrow.

I made a soda blaster today and used it to clean/blast intake manifolds to be used with DCOE's on my project M10 rebuild. I followed the instructions in the below video. Air gun, JB Weld epoxy putty, two small screws, a Snapple bottle, and 12 lbs of baking soda. $30 total. <1 hr labor. The blaster leaked around the cap-putty interface. However, JB Weld epoxy sealed the leaks. I used 60 psi. See below photo of the blaster and the clean intakes. Seemed to work quite well for my purposes: blasting intakes and 40 DCOE bodies. Photos show the blaster, clean intakes, and the result of using it to remove surface rust. CAUTION: Be sure to blast outside with your garage door closed because the expended soda settles upon everything within a 100-mile radius.

I like, do, and have both. 1. Stock, because it's morally correct. It assures me I will go to Heaven. 2. Modified, because it's spiritually correct. It makes me at least think about Hell. Both allow me to learn about, appreciate, and get involved more with the car, many times in vastly different ways.

The jig I made for my Solex 40PHH's might work as well for my to-be-rebuilt Italian DCOE's which, after a trial 38/38, might go onto my M10 rebuild project. This device allows carbs to be in the same position in relation to each other (well, close enough) they would be on an M10. After carbs are attached to this jig, connecting linkages, throttle linkages, throttle plate positions, and other basic parts and adjustments can be made, changed, adapted, and manipulated pre-install. Of course, after installation, the real adjustments can be made. Think of the jig as a stand-in for the M10 head. NOTE: The linkage which connects the two carbs (see photo) is temporary and might/might not be used in final linkage chosen.

Jim, I see your point. Thanks. I should have omitted the arrows there. The pathway was not drawn to suggest it connects to the back of the head (albeit appearing to do so) or a direction of flow but, rather, connection to the block in a general way. The drawing is meant to convey an overall idea of where coolant is found and how it travels through the divider.

Dan, Your mystery part is quite striking and ingenious in its design and function. You might find the following informative. If you alredy know this stuff, feel free to discard it. Sometimes I do this type of exercise to make sure I understand an automotive process. I have to see or even draw something to understand it. Hey, that's just me. All coolant, regardless of its temperature, is pumped from the block (see where it attaches to the block) into the coolant divider (your mystery part). Within the divider the coolant can go in two directions. (i) If the coolant needs to be warmer, it takes the first L turn toward the thermostat. (ii) If the coolant needs to be cooler, it takes the second L turn into the radiator. Which L turn the coolant takes is determined by the thermostat which "feels" the temperature of the coolant and acts accordingly. The thermostat opens if the coolant need to be cooler and closes if the coolant needs to be warmer. Cold Engine: The thermostat is closed or nearly so (as in warmup). The coolant backs up in the radiator, is forced into the first L turn into the WP, and on to the block to be warmed. See drawings. Warm Engine: The thermostat is open or nearly so (as in running). The coolant backs up in the divider, is forced into the second L turn and into the radiator to be cooled, and on to the WP to the block. See drawings. FAQers: Please let me know if I did not describe the coolant flow correctly.

M10 Rebuild Part 15 Progress! Boring...the cylinders, not the project.

They were all black (no Mylar "chrome") at least since June '74.

...and a bargain, too, at only $86.50.

I have noticed Weber 38/38's (and probably other Webers, too) are often advertised as "for Ford V6" or "for Peugeot" or "for Ford Pinto" etc. Are these carbs really mfg'd for specific makes? Are any, all, or some of them adaptable to play well with an M10? Are the differences in the linkages, tolerances, castings, etc. used in each make? Thanks.

Replied to HB via PM.

Nope, not at all. Just Italian.