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nerdydorkus

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Everything posted by nerdydorkus

  1. Hi Guys Tried to fire up the car today. Need the help of some wiring issues. Fuel pump turns on, fuel pressure is good Pulled a plug and grounded, no spark Starter cranks fine, doesnt turn over Switches CPS plug into each plug that people reverse, no change Plugs are dry, injectors not turning on? Coil has power on ignition Might have something to do with the two plugs in the pic. One is disconnected near the throttle body, and the other is a black/white plug combo near the ecu.
  2. Getting there, no cut valance, scirocco radiator barely fits. Its funny how more issues come up towards the end of the project.
  3. Thanks guys, welded on fittings and press on hoses exactly like you suggested. The stock E30 hardlines are galvanized, so hold take the appropriate precautions if anyone attempts this. The no-cut front valance swap is almost complete.
  4. I didn't know the stock 2002 diff had adjustments forward or back. Can you elaborate how to do this?
  5. Chad Mounts M20B25 and G260 Notes 1) Does not clear center track rod. Solution was to shorten and re-weld the pitman and idler arms. Also, does not clear the trans clutch cover. I had to cut a big rectangle out of it and epoxy'd a plate in. It's just a cover you could easily make another one out of sheet metal. 2) Stock E30 driveshaft ALMOST fits. But it doesn't, by 1/2 an inch or so. 3) No cut to the front valance is badass 4) If you are using the scirocco radiator, need to trim the battery tray and a little bit of the overhang on the frame rails to fit (re-weld corners for strength). A radiator 2 inches less wide would have been perfect. 5) No cut valance allows room for you to easily mount the stock, or any oil cooler. 6) For extra clearance in the front, cut the threads off the front of the water pump (we aren't using the clutch fan so this is not needed), cut 1/2 of the crank nut off. No-cut is kind of a unicorn, its almost there!
  6. Chad Mounts M20B25 and G260 Notes 1) Does not clear center track rod. Solution was to shorten and re-weld the pitman and idler arms. Also, does not clear the trans clutch cover. I had to cut a big rectangle out of it and epoxy'd a plate in. It's just a cover you could easily make another one out of sheet metal. 2) Stock E30 driveshaft ALMOST fits. But it doesn't, by 1/2 an inch or so. 3) No cut to the front valance is badass 4) If you are using the scirocco radiator, need to trim the battery tray and a little bit of the overhang on the frame rails to fit (re-weld corners for strength). A radiator 2 inches less wide would have been perfect. 5) No cut valance allows room for you to easily mount the stock, or any oil cooler. 6) For extra clearance in the front, cut the threads off the front of the water pump (we aren't using the clutch fan so this is not needed), cut 1/2 of the crank nut off. No-cut is kind of a unicorn, its almost there!
  7. Hmm, good idea. The only thing is the E30 stock oil cooler lines are steel, AN fittings at my local store are aluminum. I'll see if I can find steel ones online. Thanks!
  8. Hi Guys, Anyone have experience making their own oil cooler lines? The M20 oil cooler is high pressure so I'd have to use some sort of screw/clamp on fittings. I have the old lines but the E30 hard lines wont fit in the 2002. Something like this (but it is too pricey for me right now) http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/e30-e28-an-oil-cooler-line-conversion-kit-p-606.html
  9. Thanks Blunt, The old hose ended up having enough slack to put into the grommet. All is good, and the swap is so close. I will definitely need your services for more refreshening soon.
  10. Hello All, I'm at the tail end of the M20 swap. Does anyone know what kind of hose I can use for the return hydraulic line for the clutch? I can seem to find hardline, I assume its not under pressure because it is a return. Is there a specific size brake line hose that I can use? Does it just jam in the grommet with no other fittings on the clutch cylinder? Thanks in advance (tried searching couldn't find the answer). Andrew
  11. Sure, no problem. I do have a better method now that it's all said and done (of course). I'd recommend bolting the rubber mount to the motor and Chad's mounts, then not bolting it to the subframe at all. Then get mock up the motor and subframe on the car roughly and shake the motor back and forth until the mount seats firmly in place. This will tell you where it wants to be, rather than trying to force it in a hole that torques the mount in an odd fashion. Check your alignment with the trans/diff and mark your holes and drill away!
  12. The motor is officially in, please forgive the aluminum foil and toasty looking bay. I used the foil to protect things during the degreasing/pressure washing process. The Chad W mounts are decent, I ended up needing to get them re-welded for strength, but after they are in, I had similar results to his motor placement. 1.5 degrees on intake manifold, 21.5 degrees on the valve cover (1.5 off from stock which was 0 and 20). The placement of the new hole to offset the passenger motor mount is key. His mounts do not allow the trans to clear the center tie rod (track rod?) when using the G260. The remedy was to shorten and strengthen the pitman/idler arms to bring the assembly forward an inch or so. There is a huge benefit to using his mounts and making adjustments to the pitman/idler. The motor is really low (center of gravity) and there is a lot of clearance in the front for the radiator. I also shaved off the threads on the water pump and cut 1/2 of the crank nut off. Also, the motor is coming out again for panting, cleaning up, etc. I am basically doing this whole swap twice.
  13. Hi guys, On order for both the speedo and tach. This is not the final proof, but it is close. The tach needle/single digit rpm is styled after the E30 cluster (for my M20 swap), with 2002 touches. I've been in contact with Peter, the OP and we have come to the consensus that this is a great option for the tach. No tach adapter need (integrated potentiometer) which is normally 65, this is $120 so the cost isn't significantly more. They come supplied with a black trim ring, which I ordered an additional one to epoxy on to my oil/fuel level/blinker gauge so it will all relatively match. Andrew
  14. WTB: Driver and Passenger Seat Sliders that will fit my 75
  15. Price:: 200 Location: : San Marcos, CA Hello, I have two sets of BMW E30 bottlecaps, tires are worn. One set is 9/10 and the other has a little curb on one wheel so 8/10. 200/per set obo picked up only (shipping costs more than the wheels are worth) Thanks!
  16. Great info you posted here. I am going to go the same exact route that you did but with my M20 swap. Regarding the custom gauge face, Speedhut not able to locate it at the moment. Is there any way you could PM me your name so they can look up your order and apply the same features to my order? If possible, the amount you paid would be a great reference item for me as well. Cheers!
  17. They look awfully close to the wheels from china, searchable on alibaba.com
  18. Hi Esty, I am nearing the end of an M20 swap. The trans tunnel has been enlarged a bit to fit the new transmission. I'm curious to see how much material in that area is included? I just want to make sure I don't come up short during the trimming process. Also, my shifter hole has been relocated back a few inches, is the shifter hole on your kit pre-cut or can I cut it to fit my setup? Thanks for steering me away from the ACC kits, your kits are a much better investment. Thanks, Andrew
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