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photocrasher

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About photocrasher

  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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  1. @AustrianVespaGuy Holy cow...that actually is kind of scary that it’s entire un-fused. Driving to work today (not in this) I was thinking if it’s not that would likely be a worthy project to undertake. I’ll gladly accept ANY help/guidance you’re willing to provide given my lack of electrical prowess. @Mike I’ll make sure to photograph any findings, as well as eventual repairs/upgrades that result. I’m just glad that this happened 5 minutes from home on my way to drop off my ballot instead of in the middle of a road trip or canyon drive. This could have definitely had a different ending. Considering myself lucky!
  2. Yikes! I was pretty confused how I could be getting sparks and not blowing a fuse, but if there are un-fused wires running in there I guess that’s my answer. Admittedly electrical is not my forté, so slow and deliberate will be the path for sure. And at a friends suggestion, a fire extinguisher addition. I’ll try to get the dash disassembled in the next day or two and will definitely post photos of what I find. Hopefully it’s something obvious...my days of driving this year are numbered so even a few days off is killing me!
  3. Hey folks. Tonight while running some errands, I had a very strange issue with my lighting and light switch. Sitting at a stop light, I heard some loud "clicking" coming from the instrumentation area. A few sparks caught my eye, and it occurred to me that there was something shorting out in my instrumentation panel. I know that my dash has additional grounds already installed, and have not had issues with instrumentation jumping as is usually known without these additional grounds. Repeated sparks and noise seemed to be coming from the general area of the light switch. Continued driving to my destination, and noticed that along with the sparks/noise I was getting a pull on my alternator and headlights were dimming quite significantly. It actually got me starting to worry quite a bit as I pulled in to the parking spot. Did my shopping and wasn't quite sure how I was going to make the short drive home without headlights. Ultimately I decided to give it a shot, and turned the lights back on. Strangely, the behavior did not return at all on the 5-min drive home. I've never experienced this before in this car, and given that it didn't blow a fuse or shut the lights down completely, I'm not sure how to proceed. Planning to pull the dash to look at the light switch and related wiring, but thought I'd post a topic here to see if anyone has experienced a similar behavior, and if so, what was your solution? Was the switch able to be rebuilt, or did you just replace it? Car is a 1970 1602 with S14 swap. Doubt the S14 has anything to do with the headlights, but I figure anything abnormal about the electrical draw on the 50 year old wiring system is relevant at this point. Thanks in advance for any advice! -Nick
  4. Some LED bulbs are picky about polarity. The ones I ordered didn’t appear to be, but that would be a good thing to test. I’m not great with electrical issues but have had some strange things happen coincidentally that really had me scratching my head as to how they could be related. If your fuse blew it sounds like something is either hooked up wrong or your grounding with an exposed wire somewhere. Look at any exposed wiring for issues with the insulation. Lastly, and the electricians here will likely have a better testing method, but you might consider removing all of the new bulbs and turning the car on to see if you can isolate if the bulbs are truly related or not. If the smoke persists then you might be safe to rule out the bulbs. Good luck.
  5. This is so cool and something I’ve considered as well but have been unwilling to be the guinea pig on. I look forward to following your progress!
  6. Owner is in Germany for a month, but I am 99% sure he sold and shipped this before he left.
  7. I haven’t, but with winter here and some other home projects taking priority I also haven’t given it more work. I did read some articles about swapping out the OEM signal relay with a newer modern one, but since mine is working fine aside from this I’m likely to try swapping the bulb back to an incandescent first. If it stays illuminated with the incandescent in then I’ll have to try some of those other options. I will update the thread regardless of my results when I get a chance to try.
  8. Such a fun drive. Can’t wait to do it again!
  9. Hi Mark - I ordered the 194-AHP5 bulbs. For the main cluster lights I ordered 4 of the natural white, and then ordered one blue, one green, and two red bulbs for the high beams, blinkers, oil pressure, and brake indicators. Although the superbrightled website does not indicate these fit, I did not have any trouble getting them in. One thing specifically to note, as was mentioned by other posters, is that you should not replace the electrical system bulb with an led. I tried this to confirm the thinking and can confirm that with an LED in place the alternator does not activate and properly charge the system. Hopefully that light stays off during most use though and you don’t miss the brighter bulb... Another side note that I’ve not addressed with mine, is that after installing the LED bulb in the blinker indicator, the light does stay on all the time. I don’t know if it’s because of the lower resistance from the LED vs incandescent or because I also swapped out my actual blinkers with LED’s as well, but it does still blink brightly when activated. I am planning to test my relay eventually but have been busy and unable to do so yet. Your results may differ from mine on that, but don’t panic if not. Best of luck!
  10. Yes, if you look at my photos, I bent the wire and doubled it back on itself so that it wasn't on both the left and right of the base. I was lucky in that it didn't blow any fuses when I tested it initially, but nothing worked. Changing the leads solved my issue. Thanks for the idea!
  11. I can definitely see what you mean. These are quite a bit brighter, and although I was hoping for them to be brighter than the stock bulbs, I doubt that I'll ever keep them on full blast. I tested the dimmer last night after getting things back in initially and it's working great, so will find the perfect balance after the car is put back together. Definitely a LOT brighter than stock though.
  12. Update: As per AustrianVespaGuy's suggestion, I took the cluster out to work on it. I hooked up a 9V battery per his suggestion and diagram, and nothing. Frustrated, I thought I must have hooked up something wrong and fried everything (wouldn't be the first time). So, I took one of the LED's and connected it directly to the 9V. It lit up beautifully. So pointing more towards the board is fried. Something got me looking though at the LED base more closely, and I noticed that unlike the incandescent bulbs, there are two wire contacts on both sides of the bulb (as opposed to one on each side). Sorry in advance for the crappy cell pics. Side one: Notice how at the base there are wires on both sides Side two: Same thing So, I bend the wire and fold it over meaning there is only one wire per side, just like the incandescent bulbs Putting the LED's back into their holders I test again with the 9V, and magically they light up! I test rotate the negative/positive to verify the bulbs do not care about the polarity. Voila! Bulbs dim and light up as expected! Now the only issue is the turn signal indicator stays lit all the time and blinks extra bright when signals are active. I have seen several articles about this being an issue with the LED conversion and will find the appropriate article to fix that before fully reinstalling the cluster. These bulbs are SO much brighter than the originals. I'm very happy with the result. I may actually have to turn them down from my default high power for normal driving. Now on to upgrading the rest of the bulbs in the car as well. Thanks again to everyone who chimed in! -Nick
  13. Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. My game plan this evening is to swap around a couple of the bulbs to see if somehow my luck is outrageously bad and they are all somehow in reversed. If that yields no results will swap back in some of the original bulbs to test the panel itself. I’ll report back the results.


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