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About Alec

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  1. That did it! Thanks! Just a little counterclockwise rotation and it was back to the old sound and idled on its own. Tomorrow I'll use the timing light to tweak it, though I'd ideally like to get the 123 working. Maybe I'll put it back in and try rotating it a little bit until in starts? Yes, the weber has an idle shut off valve, but there's no wire connected. That shouldn't matter with a mechanical fuel pump, right? Were you saying that based on my description or the video? Here's the mark I aligned: http://imgur.com/AkIRSmz
  2. I'll double check the brake fluid shortly! I haven't set the timing using a timing light yet - I haven't wanted to maintain the engine running with the current symptoms (plus it dies if I take my foot off of the accelerator). So I've set the timing by lining up the markings on the distributor with the marking on the camshaft (the one on the end near the timing chain).
  3. Thanks 72, I double checked again and it was 1-3-4-2 clockwise. Thanks - yea, I put 3/6 back on for the second video (first link) so that it would stop bouncing around. I can put all six back on with a new video if that helps? Uh oh, what makes you say that? I had to bleed the brakes right before we moved out because I knocked the actuator when I was putting new brake pads on the rear brakes.
  4. Hey all, another question for the experts. After having finally gotten reunited with the car after moving to the Chicago area, I set about to do a few things: 1. Diagnose lingering fuel pump problems (solved by replacing the PO's electrical pump with a new mechanical pump from Blunt) 2. Do a tune up by adjusting valve clearance (per the Chilton manual), 3. Put new spark plugs in (old ones were black), and 4. Installing the 123Ignition that I got for Christmas last year. I did #1 and it solved my problems, and I had no trouble getting the engine started. The problem started after #2 (I didn't try to start the engine in before completing #3). With the 123Ignition, I wasn't getting any ignition. I could smell fuel on the spark plug when I pulled it out after turning the engine over. I checked for spark and it was good. I tried reinstalling it by pulling it all out, resetting so I could see that the camshaft was at TDC, and following the instructions very closely. Still didn't fire up. So I tried putting the old mechanical distributor in, again aligning with TDC and the notch on the distributor (same location I saw it before I pulled it out the first time). This time, I can get it to start, but it only continues to run as long as I have the accellerator pressed, but the sound is also... unnatural. Here's a couple of videos showing it: https://goo.gl/photos/GUGwWpDzfgmCJ5ZF9 https://goo.gl/photos/YJoEGrAc9HZtCSiD7 I wanted to verify that my piston was TDC when the camshaft indicated it was, but my borescope wasn't working. I also thought that because the mark on the camshaft and the old distributor were aligned, it meant that things were in good order. Does it seem like I did something with the valves? Is my timing off? The sound of the engine running was so distinctive I thought it might be wise to ask the experts. Thanks again!
  5. Is there a regular calendar of tech sessions? Or is this just a once-in-a-while event? Just moved to Chicago and am looking for 2002 activities!
  6. Back in December/January I tied the front brakes to the side while I started some suspension work. Now that I go to put them back together, both front brakes are stuck shut. The brake feels nice and tight and there doesn't appear to be any air coming out when pressing the pedals during a bleed. Is there air further in the lines that I'm just not seeing? Do I need to do anything with the master? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
  7. That's the Haynes manual. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
  8. I got the new control arms. I tried installing them but when I tighten the nuts and 108 foot pounds of torque that the Chilton's manual recommends, I get no up or down movement in the control arm. If I remember, before there was actually good up and down movement when the bolt was still tightened. Should it be movable by hand?
  9. It's the latter, but because of the former, I don't think I could screw a slide hammer on. I can get a nut on it, only about 1/8 inch. I'll call around to my local auto parts stores and see if I can find one on loaner. I'm having a hard time visualizing what it would lever against though? Toby, I imagine you have lots of used parts hanging around your garage . I'm in Providence, RI. I looked around online and couldn't find anything used, thus my aversion to paying the full price. I'll definitely try the non-invasive methods first.
  10. What I hope to be the last major obstacle before putting her back together, is that one of the front shocks is stuck in in the strut housing. I got the other one out pretty easily, but this one has endured several sessions of soaking, heat, and a mfh (medium hammer, since I don't have a big one). I asked the auto body shop down the street to try and remove it and they say they've had no luck. The manager said that they could cut it open to get it out, and then weld it back in. Is this a reasonable approach, or is there something else you all would recommend? I'm in a bit of a time crunch, as I need to move at the end of the month and also don't want to spend the $1050 getting a new one from BMW.
  11. I was tackling the job of replacing the pads and drum on the rear brakes, and in the wrestling match with the springs, I knocked the little rubber cap off of the actuator. I thought "oh, neat! I always wondered how the brakes seated in underneath the rubber." And then the metal plug shot three feet out and brake fluid started dripping down (up to 1/4 cup, maybe?). Should I bleed the brakes? Or is this particular situation safe to not bleed? It's something I've not been wanting to tackle right now. Sidenote: I've certainly developed a more colorful vocabulary since starting to work on this car!
  12. Hi all, Another question for the experts: The flanges on my control arms are bent and I'm not sure if I should replace the entire arm or if I can just replace the rubber mountings? The angle of the arm itself looks okay and appears to be just the flanges, but I can't make out the exact angle that the arm should be from images/diagrams online. Here's some photos showing the arms: Photo backup: https://goo.gl/photos/S3c8SfB2pZmRdQjP9
  13. The Makita looks like a great option as an alternative. It seems like the overall cost would be about the same as a basic air setup too. Probably not in my immediate budget, but I will be on the lookout.Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks all, I'll pick up a pipe wrench and give it a go this weekend. Unfortunately I don't have access to an impact gun (unless somebody in the Providence area wants to lend me one!).
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