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Everything posted by rstclark

  1. If you follow the advise of the Hackmechanic Rob Siegel, he suggests you install a fan " that will suck dogs off the sidewalk" With a condenser sandwiched in front of the radiator it would seem penny wise and pound foolish not to install a fan regardless of your climate or your duty cycle ie. stop and go traffic especially Find the biggest fan 10 inch or 12 inch ? that will fit thru the radiator opening and focus on those with the highest CFM air flow. The cheap Chinese fans specification are a little suspect, so if you want to be sure look for a spawl type fan with a quality reputation. A fan shroud is also a good idea to pull more air thru the condenser/ radiator. Don't think twice about this. IMHO Do it once , do it right . Wire it with a relay Have it run when the AC is switched on and maybe wire it to also run by a separate switch with the AC off Maybe it's just me , but I hate to see the heat gauge going up towards the red in any car.
  2. If you want it to crank --- get an M3 starter. A stock Bosch rebuild will do the job but an M3 starter turns much faster The are sold on Ebay with no core required. Of course there are other sources Check it out
  3. Seems like two options 1 Put the low side together first and spread the top side to assemble 2 Assemble the top then put the W spring in one shoe, hook it behind the clip. then (If you have a helper this works better) hold the W spring down behind the clip and grab the spring with a set of pliers or vice grips and pull the W spring out until it rests on the other shoe. Then use a screw driver to pry the spring into place where it drops -springs really- into the hole in the second shoe Congratulate yourself. The first inclination fort most people is to install the W spring last, so that's why this task is so notorious Thank goodness it doesn't have to be done very often
  4. Like the car. Like the license plat ring
  5. I may be wrong - it’s happened before- but I don’t think you can swap an electric choke on to a water choke carb Pierce would know for sure Plus 1 on the other comments. Repair or replace the water choke
  6. Don't listen to Carl His wheels are legendary Legendary visions of originality A Kind word would be Survivor My vote would be 1 chemically strip the paint off. 2 Power wash or Vapor Blast 3 Clear the spokes and centers and 4 polish the lip Its worth the effort . The wheels will be distinctive
  7. Opps to answer my own question VHT reports the the paint is Number ESP 104 000 and is sold in most auto parts stores in the US It doesn't seem to be on the shelf near me but with the number at least it can be ordered.
  8. Did a search for VHT "Matt Grey" and only found it available in UK maybe Canada too ? Is this available in the US ? Other VHT paint like Cast Iron or Silver just don't look right The "Matt Grey" looks great but at about $35 a can with shipping from the UK, there but be an alternative.
  9. Thanks Paul This is great info for Tii owners
  10. OKAY. Where ? In case I ever need to know
  11. Is the infamous verboten screw the one inside the tuna can that will adjust the Co ?
  12. Wow Paul that work is impressive Goes way beyond a general clean up and paint job My current consternation is how to treat a Tii restoration that really has only surface rust in a few places. The car was undercoated 46 years ago and it's dirty but not rusty - San Diego CA car My first inclination was to pull the subrfames out and restore, Clean and treat any surface rust then undercoat again and paint it black As for the wheel wells that are still original with the factory overspray. I've come to the conclusion that any new additional repaint overspray will be how the wheel wells should be left Seems to be two schools of thought here regarding the rest of the undercarraige: One would be to do a very through restoration that is well above the factory such as yours or two, leave it more original to show that there is nothing to hide . What are the opinions about this ? My intention is to do nothing that will be considered a negative with this car or can't be undone Probably leaning towards a good power wash cleaning and maybe e a clear coat seal ?
  13. Maybe we should get a group counselor ?
  14. Of course "it is what it is " just accept it and move on Conkitchen and Ray I'm still going to tell Mom on you. You're both derelicts
  15. You know it's really not that bad having one cylinder down more than say 20 percent Remember this. The compression test is run at very low RPMs but when driving at 2,500 to say 3,500 rpm things are happening very fast You will get by for the next few months. Don't get obsessed about the compression at this point
  16. 20w50 plus STP as needed 20w50 or 40w is recommended in higher temperatures No problem
  17. Would this qualify as a Panamericana race car ?
  18. Toning it back down a notch to a more general discussion, I would say that except in the case of very rare cars, the 245 swap increases value probably by about the $ 2,500 it takes to do the job. Certainly true for base models roundie or not. Until recently I was on the fence about doing a 5 speed in a Tii, but it's certainly not a negative anymore. The last several restored Tiis going thru BAT have all been 245 5 speeds. And as mentioned previously, reverting to a 4 speed is relatively simple and relatively inexpensive. A 245 is a nice upgrade for drive-ability even with a 3.64 rear end and does no permanent damage for those intent on being a purest. Even the BFH can be applied from the inside of the car instead pounding from the underside
  19. Probably the most economical method is to strip and polish the aluminium trim. It can be polished to be too bright for an original appearance, but can be clear coated to dull it down to be very close to original. The clear will also keep the shine for an extended time. Without a clear coat it will need to be polished occasionally. To strip the anodizing off the aluminum, find a shop that does anodizing and have them chemically strip the trim to bare aluminium. This service is not expensive and is a much better alternative to sanding off the anodizing Next straighten and polish the aluminum. A metal polisher will straighten almost anything that is not kinked and polish it for you. Metal polishing by a shop can be expensive. Last time I did it, the quote was $9 a running foot. At that price, new belt line trim can be competitive. Is It Chinese stainless steel ? Does it fit ? uhmm. If the trim is straight , you can polish it yourself. Pieces that are scratched or pitted can be sanded starting with 400 grit progressing with 600 , 1000 and finally 2000. At that point the metal can be polished with a product like Mothers The finished product is pretty satisfactory. Pieces that have small dents can be patiently straightened from the back side and the sanded on the front to smooth the surface. Once you have nice shiny aluminum, you can try clear coating. If the finish is unsatisfactory you can steel wool it off and re polish. Decide on this before you install it on the car. Regarding having the trim anodized, It seems that bright dip, at least in California, is not what it use to be. Having seen re anodized pieces, they are dull and that is not a good alternative IMHO.
  20. Anyone have experience or opinion about using a 284 cam in a Tii with higher compression pistons like 9.5 or euro 9.7 :1 ? When people say a 292 won't play well with the Kugelfisher system , is it because the top end will run lean ?
  21. Here are some follow -up photos of the Edelbrock air cleaner There are other brands available that use a 3 1/2 in opening for a standard american four barrel carb. You get a K&N filter for this if you want to improve the filter element. Yes you can get a low profile adapter for the Weber 32/36/ 38/38 that will mate up with this air cleaner Toyota off road truck guys use the adapter and bigger air cleaners In this instance the Edelbrock has been painted out. Just don't have as much sense of humor as Dick R
  22. I think there is one for sale on the Parts For Sale section
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