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Everything posted by rstclark

  1. Of course "it is what it is " just accept it and move on Conkitchen and Ray I'm still going to tell Mom on you. You're both derelicts
  2. You know it's really not that bad having one cylinder down more than say 20 percent Remember this. The compression test is run at very low RPMs but when driving at 2,500 to say 3,500 rpm things are happening very fast You will get by for the next few months. Don't get obsessed about the compression at this point
  3. 20w50 plus STP as needed 20w50 or 40w is recommended in higher temperatures No problem
  4. Would this qualify as a Panamericana race car ?
  5. Conkitchen and Ray I'm going to tell Mom on you
  6. Toning it back down a notch to a more general discussion, I would say that except in the case of very rare cars, the 245 swap increases value probably by about the $ 2,500 it takes to do the job. Certainly true for base models roundie or not. Until recently I was on the fence about doing a 5 speed in a Tii, but it's certainly not a negative anymore. The last several restored Tiis going thru BAT have all been 245 5 speeds. And as mentioned previously, reverting to a 4 speed is relatively simple and relatively inexpensive. A 245 is a nice upgrade for drive-ability even with a 3.64 rear end and does no permanent damage for those intent on being a purest. Even the BFH can be applied from the inside of the car instead pounding from the underside
  7. Probably the most economical method is to strip and polish the aluminium trim. It can be polished to be too bright for an original appearance, but can be clear coated to dull it down to be very close to original. The clear will also keep the shine for an extended time. Without a clear coat it will need to be polished occasionally. To strip the anodizing off the aluminum, find a shop that does anodizing and have them chemically strip the trim to bare aluminium. This service is not expensive and is a much better alternative to sanding off the anodizing Next straighten and polish the aluminum. A metal polisher will straighten almost anything that is not kinked and polish it for you. Metal polishing by a shop can be expensive. Last time I did it, the quote was $9 a running foot. At that price, new belt line trim can be competitive. Is It Chinese stainless steel ? Does it fit ? uhmm. If the trim is straight , you can polish it yourself. Pieces that are scratched or pitted can be sanded starting with 400 grit progressing with 600 , 1000 and finally 2000. At that point the metal can be polished with a product like Mothers The finished product is pretty satisfactory. Pieces that have small dents can be patiently straightened from the back side and the sanded on the front to smooth the surface. Once you have nice shiny aluminum, you can try clear coating. If the finish is unsatisfactory you can steel wool it off and re polish. Decide on this before you install it on the car. Regarding having the trim anodized, It seems that bright dip, at least in California, is not what it use to be. Having seen re anodized pieces, they are dull and that is not a good alternative IMHO.
  8. Anyone have experience or opinion about using a 284 cam in a Tii with higher compression pistons like 9.5 or euro 9.7 :1 ? When people say a 292 won't play well with the Kugelfisher system , is it because the top end will run lean ?
  9. Here are some follow -up photos of the Edelbrock air cleaner There are other brands available that use a 3 1/2 in opening for a standard american four barrel carb. You get a K&N filter for this if you want to improve the filter element. Yes you can get a low profile adapter for the Weber 32/36/ 38/38 that will mate up with this air cleaner Toyota off road truck guys use the adapter and bigger air cleaners In this instance the Edelbrock has been painted out. Just don't have as much sense of humor as Dick R
  10. I think there is one for sale on the Parts For Sale section
  11. Wait to get your driveshaft and do a straight line alignment of the driveshaft from the tranny to the rear end. If the engine and tranny were just stuffed in by the PO for expediency without a BFH applied to the tunnel for clearance of the slave cylinder in particular you can't get there from here. Patience is called for at this point Work on something else in the meantime. You has the ability to fix this. all in good time
  12. Plus one on what Simeon has said. It's way too high just to be normal suspension. Some will argue this , but gas shocks and struts like Bilstein will raise the car slightly only slightly. Certainly this is not the cause of what you are experiencing Many other factors are involved in ride height Number one is springs Stock springs for your year car have a high ride height. Don't jump into changing springs until you get the car back to normal, then determine what to do next Since you have a 74, 75. or 76 with the 5 MPH bumpers, you may have 1/2 inch spacers under your front strut caps This raised the car so that the front bumper height met the US DOT minimum for 5 MPH bumpers. These can be removed or placed on top of the strut where it mounts under the hood and the car will be lowered by 1/2 inch In the rear, there can be three different thicknesses of rubber spring pads at the top of the coil spring These are identified by 1, 2 or 3 dots on the side of the rubber pad . 1 dot is the thinnest and 3 dots is the thickest. Detailed (minor) adjustment of rear ride height can be achieved with the use of the spring pad that will rest the car where you want it. Don't be surprised to find that you have 3 dot pads in your car. If you want to lower the ride height of the car. , start with a matching set of sport springs that will lower the car by 1 to 1 1/2 inches H@R are very popular Eibacks are also good. Do a search on this and there will be a wealth of information Old timers say you can cut your stock springs by 1 and 1/2 coil, but I don't recommend that. Springs do not have a uniform coil distance. The tops and bottoms have a tighter wind that make for a proper seating of the coil into the mounts. There is a lot of discussion on this issue too if you search.. Best regards
  13. Don’t believe they had a gap. Never seen one that was not filled
  14. I've cut the shaft off and carefully pressed it out of the plastic in order to save the fan blade This was when the motor was beyond repair. Seems like there was a thread about someone making a new fan or adapting a fan from something non automotive.. It didn't look like much, but reportedly did the job The trick is to test run it before you put the heater back in the car to be sure the blades are not hitting anything and making a racket
  15. Very Nice --- Beats hell out of JB weld and a prayer
  16. Still waiting to hear about the need for a hood roundel
  17. My Porsche 911 turbo is available It can be a good deal and it's a really nice car
  18. I have grills and a center kidney from a 72 but they are in rough condition. They would need some work and polish to look good.
  19. For clarification, The only reason I brought this up was not about the sync link which I have no knowledge or experience with, but just to say how well the 38/38 carb works. There is no stumble . They provide plenty of low end torque and smooth power throughout the power curve. I did eventually get a new 32/36 well jetted and running well on my car but the kicker was the amount of cold start choke to make it run. The warm up was so over choked that is was extremely starved for air and ran horribly rich. The 38/38 by comparison starts well and runs very nice during the warm up. The low end power of two 38s working together is sooo much better than one 32 starving for air. Yes I've gotten 28 mpg with a semi built motor while running the 32/36. But Who cares about mileage ? I'm sure the sync link will help simulate a synchronized 38/38 so by all means give it a try and enjoy it if it's working for you Looking back now when I was restoring my first 2002 and seeking advise on what to build, I was advised by Jeremy at Ireland Engineering to skip the 32/36 and just put on a 38/38 Only wish I had taken that advise rather than keep working on the 32/36 route
  20. A stock 38/38 on a stock motor can be too much carburetor Even on a built motor they have to have jetting adjustments to lean them a little.
  21. Saw this in person last week in San Diego Very Nice A few oddities. Nice but $55K nice ? Ahhhh No
  22. Reviving an old thread. After installing a 38/38 on a 150 hp built motor last year and being very pleased with the results, I put a 38/38 on my slightly less built motor in my other car. Got it from Ireland Engineering and Jeff jetted down from stock for my build. The results are very good The car is a joy to drive from cold start on I'm completely done with 32/36 carbs and regret all the re jetting and fiddle farting that has gone on with them.
  23. In Particular I'm looking for the "bulge " amber lenses for US cars in very good condition Can you send photos ?
  24. those part numbers appear to be the fight fixture housing not the amber lenses The amber us lenses list at $292 ouch ---- each
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