Jump to content

rstclark

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,022

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by rstclark

  1. rstclark
    Mark You and I are headed down similar paths Looks like we both chose Nevada
  2. rstclark
    Put the carpet kit back in the box. You're not ready yet. Yes your excitement is understandable Like a kid with a new model car kit but on a bigger scale. When you do get ready for the carpet look for the esty instructions You will feel very accomplished when you get this done and you can do most of the work by yourself Double your budget and triple the time frame expectations There are plenty of knowledgably people in San Diego who can be helpful
  3. rstclark
    Two ways to do this by yourself 1 Remove the hood, rent an engine hoist and install the motor from above 2 Raise the car high enough to drop the front subframe . Install the motor on the subframe and raise the motor and subframe back up into the car. For the novice, method number 1 is the easiest and safest Install the transmission after the motor is in the car Tips: remove the radiator and remove the distributor from the engine to avoid damage I'm sure you can find more detail by doing a Search here or even YouTube
  4. rstclark
    I’ve heard the angle is different too and if you put the tears on th front they look a k little wall eyed
  5. rstclark
    Dude they are available everywhere for little over $125 Get a good repo with tint Hint: Don't call Safelite unless you want to be hosed Get new rubber and the lock strip UFO rubber is OK Installation is not easy to do and some shops won't even do it because of the lock strip Look for a "real people " glass shop in say Santa Ana where they don't price by Zip Code or see if someone can give you a local recommendation
  6. rstclark
    Barney FYI I have rears in fair condition if this doesn't play out
  7. rstclark
    The backs and the fronts are not the same
  8. rstclark
    Oh just looked at the rear. No reflectors looks like a later 69
  9. rstclark
    Seeing this reassembled it looks like a 69 that’s confused. Notice side lights in the rear but no sidelights in the front early 69’s didn’t have sidelights but later 69’s from about January 1969 on did have them The VIN would be and indicator of production date and help determine which way this car should go assuming the intention is to get it correct In it’s history , the front fenders could have been replaced with early fenders or it could have suffered a rear collision that was repaired with a later rear end The strongest probability is that it is a later model 69 and the front fenders have been replaced. This would be easy to fix if it is a later model by adding the sidelights By chance does it have rear reflector lights ? Is so the tail piece has been replaced with a later , like say a 72, model Roundie tail Steve can confirm this
  10. rstclark
    Yes you will have to break out the welder you can put late model belts in an early car by using late model seatbelts and welding in mounts like in square tail cars One at the base of the B pillar and another about mid way up the window opening Simulate what the factory did by welding a bolt on a strip of metal and welding them to the body The photo is a factory mounting on the driveshaft tunnel but it gives you an idea of what to do
  11. rstclark
    You need a friend in the US in like say Seattle who can buy it with US $s and ship it to you as a big box of Crayons or something We need to keep you in the game BTW. Did you see the 1969 02 that sold today on BAT for $54,000 ? Makes wonder why I’m putting a turbo on my 69
  12. rstclark
    Bosch 40 lb injectors have been recommended to be used with sequential injection and idle control achieve a normal Will Injector Dynamics improve this part of the tune ?
  13. rstclark
    Could be if you don’t know, AustrianVespsGuy has been extremely helpful in documenting the conversion to efi using Megasquirt I for one appreciate his contributions , so to be clear I’m not questioning his knowledge or ability. Just trying to find out if are things that he understands that I need to be aware of
  14. rstclark
    @AustrianVespaGuy iI know you’re a Megasquirt user so perhaps you are not familiar with a Halltech system The Halltech measures air temp ,fuel pressure , controls sequential fuel injection, air fuel ratio ,ignition timing compensated by levels of boost or vacuumed over and above mechanical advance Given this level of control. Is there something that still makes you say Yikes about using L jetronic with bigger injectors ?
  15. rstclark
    I'm in the process of going turbo on an M10 and from my research, the Bosch L Jetronic injection from an mid 1980's 318i is the better option. It has a fuel rail and injectors that mount into the intake runners. Since you will most likely have to increase the amount of fuel to feed the turbo , this system is more adaptable . The original 1974 and 75 2002 turbos had compression ratios of 6.9 to 1. Your rebuilt engine is undoubtedly higher, so don't plan on applying boost of more than 8 lbs by means of a wastegate Going to fuel injection and a turbo is no simple matter and requires complete electronic engine management Done well, you can expect to have 180 HP that is durable and reliable Other things to consider: More Cooling both water and oil More brakes , and More suspension I'm not Familiar with an Emerald ecu, but be sure it offers everything you need. You should have a trigger wheel ignition , a second signal from the distributor drive to act as a cam sensor to control sequential fuel injection, an oxygen sensor to control A/F ratio, and a Vacuum/ Boost control of the ignition curve at the least. Best Regards
  16. rstclark
    Bump
  17. rstclark
    Perhaps it's a throw back to the old days when you could keep your plugs from fouling longer in an oil burning car if you installed shorter hotter plugs. I'm talking the really old days when you would stop for gas and get $2.00 worth of regular. and two quarts of reclaimed oil without bothering to check the dip stick because you knew it was about time for more oil The NGKs will be fine
  18. rstclark
    @bergie agree oil temp is not that important Even in a turbo set up where you should have a thermostatic controlled oil cooler and plenty of other sensors to protect things
  19. rstclark
    Coolant Temp. Oil Pressure and Vacuum/Boost in the center console The factory coolant gauge can be unreliable. Not sure why you need to monitor voltage separately
  20. rstclark
    Check their inventory They’re notorious for junk
  21. rstclark
    I'll take them
  22. rstclark
    Are replacement Roundels available for these ? What's the diameter of the roundels ? I have a vintage set if 13" wheels for these that would make a great set
  23. rstclark
    It's not that complicated Just get an ATF funnel big enough to accept the gas pump nozzle and push the big shut off ring into it to make the pump run Then cut off the long neck of the funnel so that it still has a big enough hole to accept the steel business end of the pump nozzle and direct gas in the tank The 99 cent store may have one or go to any auto parts store Wish I had one to post a photo but I currently out of stock Oh Lord the supply chain issues are maddening
  24. rstclark
    Use a trigger wheel and run wasted spark. Let the ECU control spark Then use a locked dizzy as a cam sensor to allow the ECU to better control the fuel Not sure about the capabilities of your ECU but it may be able to produce sequential fuel injection rather than just a batch/flood approach
  25. rstclark
    Mark , Surprised nobody has mentioned it but an M42 with a turbo can produce a lot of horsepower for a far more reasonable price Some say the head flows as well as the S14. If I were rethinking the S14, I would be looking at the M42 as an option
×
×
  • Create New...