Tassie

Hi Sydney, rhd here too. Slightly different install for me. Battery in the boot, positive feed down the drivers side following the old fuel line route. Then up and across the dash via an isolating switch and then into the engine bay near the other cables. Dont be frightened to cut the cable and crimp on new lugs. Use a cheap eBay hydraulic crimper or call into your local auto electrician. I’m using a bulkhead fitting to pass through the firewall. Maybe something like that will let you add additional length from a terminal?

My turn signals were in very similar condition. As noted above, I put in the hard yards to sand them back and polish them up. I would guess that mine were chromed stainless steel, as you could see various layers being removed by the sanding. Progressing through grits and finishing with polishing compound and wax gave a very respectable finish. Some of the dark mottling will show through the final finish. The hardest part was the finesse required around the lens, careful use of a Dremel is the go.

Hey pberen I’ve just been through the same Wilwood issue down here (Australia) and also discovered banjo fittings. I had new custom braided lines made up with banjo’s at one end and connected directly to the trailing arm flexible lines. For any Australians, I can’t recommend HEL Performance highly enough. Their online customiser is excellent. https://au.helperformance.com/custom-brake-hose

Hi there, I had similar problems removing the pin. I ended up carefully measuring and drilling a small hole in the tunnel, then used a fine pin punch to knock the pin through. Small grommet/plug to seal the hole.

Hey there. I have noticed the exact same problem with my IE pads. No amount of persuasion could get the spring to seat properly. I have ended up cable tying the pad to the spring and it now seats correctly when assembled.

Thanks guys, those pics are awesome! Time to break out the grinder and welder.... 😊

Thanks guys. I was thinking of making some similar reinforcing plates, but worried by the available space inside the pillar. Probably only room for a 3/4” by 4” plate. Any thoughts on tapping 1/4” plate vs welding a nut to thinner plate?

Hi all I’m after details on the upper b-pillar mount that was fitted to later models with retractable seat belts. i assume that a reinforcing plate was fitted inside the pillar. Does anyone have photos etc? thanks.

Hi all. After much searching, I’m more confused than ever! I am using a Getrag240 from an e30 for my 5 speed conversion. Understand it’s not the usual model, but it’s what is available in my part of the world. My car is a 1968 1602 which has just had an e21 2.0L installed. I thought I had got lucky with gearbox output/1602 driveshaft..... both being 3 bolt flanges, but it looks like the 1968 flange is slightly smaller than the e30 gearbox output flange. RealOEM tells me that the 1968 guibo is 26111100863 and the e30 guibo is 26111223624. So I assume the two 3-bolt flanges are incompatible. Any suggestions on a driveshaft? I can’t find a lot of info on whether swapping the gearbox outputs is an option. ie 1602 4sp output installed in the e30 G240 5 speed Thanks

Thanks Aussie. Gives me something to think about. Did you give any thought to adapting a universal heater valve? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263307036218

Hi Aussie. I’m just starting down the heater refurb journey! My heater valve is the early type and is pretty much jammed/corroded solidly together. Some details on the pex valve and some pics would be appreciated. Thankd

Thanks mate, you're a legend. Any thoughts on whether there is any taper when viewed from above?

Thanks for the info! I have attached a photo. Does anyone have measurements to locate the holes after I get them welded?

Hi all I have just removed and dismantled my front subframe and I am a little apprehensive! Forgive my terminology but are the holes in the subframe through which pass the bolts that mount the front suspension arms supposed to be slotted? If not, any suggestions to repair? thanks

Thanks guys, much appreciated! Sounds like an auxiliary unit is the go. Any suggestions on where/how to source a 'switched' power feed?