RadicalRacing

Thanks for the comments. I am lucky to have three professionals with over 30 years experience each in high performance supercharged or turbo engines living in my area that are willing to help me and a fourth with 15 years experience installing EFI systems.... but none have supercharged an M10 engine before. Bill has been in the business of supercharging virtually everything imaginable and currently makes superchargers for Harley Davidson motorcycles. The second, Chuck is a machinist that makes parts for supercharged, turbo and high performance engines and chassis and including parts for Bill. The third, Craig concentrates on high performance engine head flow, custom intake and exhaust systems. Bill told me to build a stout M10 with no more than 8.5:1 compression and a stock cam. Craig will design and build the intake manifold for (EFI/Megasquirt) after I give him the range of intercoolers that are available to me. Chuck will make the bits that need to be machined including the fuel rail. As I mentioned in my post Bill recommended an Eaton M62 supercharger which I have obtained and turned over to him for rebuild/modification. Craig said my job is to figure the max size intercooler that can be fitted (in front of the radiator) into a BMW 2002. Craig will do the calculations and create the intake manifold working with Bill and the modified M62. He'll tell me what size intercooler I need and then I must find a quality manufacturer.

Looking for recommendations for intercoolers for my 1974 supercharged 2002 project. Looks like something 14 x 12 x 3 will fit with no problems but all I seem to find (Setrab, Mishimoto, Summit, Frostbite) are units that are in the 21" - 30" range (L). Not sure if these will fit without major surgery.

Delivered seat cover kits from zoomzoom for E10 Recaros, matching rear seats and door panels to my upholsterer. Color will change from dark blue to dark red. Told specialist to start on modification of Eaton M62 supercharger to fit M10. Delivered M10 engine so shop can use it to design clearances, pulley system, idlers etc. Machine shop starting on custom fuel injected intake manifold for eventual Megasquirt conversion. Chose fuel injectors and delivered to machine shop. Still haven't decided on throttle body yet.

Frank told me I was his first customer in the USA. Hartge 8 spoke 15 x 8. The finish was absolutely PERFECT both front and back. The packaging was beyond amazing. I would recommend Powderwheels to anyone.

Preyupy: Thanks for the comments. I plan on installing a Megasquirt fuel injection system with a single throttle body mounted on an Eaton type supercharger and custom intake manifold.

I plan to supercharge the M10 motor in my 1974 BMW 2002 base model with 5 speed trans conversion. My supercharger expert said I needed to build a stout motor with 8:1 compression but that there was no need for hot cams or high compression pistons. I would like to hear from the Forum members about what fuel pump to use and its position on the car. Thanks in advance for any comments.

7mintgurn: Thank you for the information but still have some questions. I have two red wires the same thickness. My two green wires are joined together not separate. I suspect what I am seeing is dead stock because the car truly was owned by a little old lady and was unmolested. The most common wiring diagram that has been recommended to me shows an additional single green wire going to the ignition switch. No single green wire where to be found on my car.

I need help figuring what wires go where on the ignition switch on my 1974 base model 2002. (Unfortunately all my photos were deleted by my friend when he set up my new cell phone). I have the following wires: single red, single red, double green, single violet and single *black. The switch itself has the following symbols molded into it: 15, 30, 50, F and R. So what goes where? I seem to remember the single red wires go to the spades with the 30 between them but I do not know which one. The black goes to 50. *I did the seat belt interrupt delete hence the singe black wire instead of a black w/ white stripe. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

I have also been planning to supercharge my 1974 base model 2002. I am lucky because I have two very experienced supercharger experts nearby. One is national known, the other is primarily his CNC machinist but also a builder of superchargers in his own right. Between them they have done thousands of supercharger installations from "a lawnmower to top fuel dragsters". I was particularly shocked to learn that I do not need a complicated cast intake manifold with smooth rounded runners for a supercharger. Both gentleman assured me that they can build me a supercharger that could pump so much air around square corners that it could blow the crank right out the bottom of the motor. So the plan is to use two thick milled plates of billet aluminum. This also helps with crowding against the brake booster. One plate has holes to match the heads intake ports, recessed bolts to attach the plate to the head, holes to attach the first plate to the second and mounting holes for the fuel injectors. (My plan is to use Megasquirt). The second plate bolts to the first plate adjusted fore and aft to line up the supercharger snout pulley with the motors main pulley/belt system and studs to mount the base of the supercharger. The mating surfaces of the two plates have a shared channel that routes the compressed air from the supercharger through the plates into the intake ports. This is the plan and when done and if it works as expected I will provide the information to the group.

Starting to put my 1974 base automatic 2002 back together after the 5 speed conversion, rebuilt motor, brakes, front and rear subframes. My buddy wiped out all the photos I had taken during tear down setting up my new cell phone so I am at a lost as to where some of the wires go. I have three wiring diagrams that claim to be for my car but there are many differences. - There is pair of wires (Green/white stripe and violet/White stripe) in a black sheath that travel along the underside of the insulation on the drivers side of the tunnel then through a grommet to the underside of the tunnel. Can't find these on any of the wiring diagrams I have. - There are two spades in a sensor/switch on top of the Getrag 245 trans. What wires go to this connection? - There is what looks like a relay in the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger side a coupe of inches from where the radiator support and inner fender come together. There is multiple wire plug going into the bottom of the relay. Coming out of the relay there is a single brown wire ground wire with a loop connector. Where should it be connected? There are also a black and a red wire in a black sheath with a gray dual plastic connector at one end coming out of the relay. The red wire comes out the relay but the black wire has loop that is not connected. Where does the dual connector go? Where does the black wire loop end go? Lots more loose wires on the drivers side but enough for now. There are some things I am good at but auto wiring is not one of them. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Yes I am talking about the rubber accordion bellows looking piece. My console piece has a small molded in ridge running along each side of the roughly rectangular holes for the shifter. *Each ridge is about 1/4" high, 3/16" wide and 4" long. Sorry but I do not see any way for these ridges to engage and hold the rubber accordion. *The console piece is 25 miles away from my computer in my shop so I could not measure the ridges exactly.

I am ready to install the console into my 5 speed converted '74 auto 2002. The leather boot is trashed but the car came with a perfect stock manual console section and ribbed rubber boot. I'd like to use the rubber boot in place of a leather one but how do I fasten it in place? Seems I am missing a bracket or mounting screws. Also the hole in the console is smaller than the base of the rubber boot so I can't push it through and fix it from underneath the center section. .

I think I've figured out a way to use the stock 2002 bracket to lower the alternator by drilling another mounting hole to use the two mounting holes in the block below the oil filter bracket. Mocking it up in place everything seems to clear and the v belt pulleys line up. Now I need to find or fabricate a long slotted bracket. I took the oil filter bracket off. There was no gasket between the bracket and the block. Is this correct? Thanks everyone for the photos. Might try to find a tii bracket at the Brisbane show.

Does anyone have close up photo of a tii alternator and bracket they could post?

I am going to install a Camden/Eaton style supercharger on my 1974 2002 project. Unfortunately the nose of the supercharger extends into the space occupied by the alternator in its' stock position. I want to keep the alternator on the intake side of the motor but hang it lower out the way of the supercharger and pulley. Does any one know if there is a bracket available (new or used) that will accomplish this position change?

Sorry forgot to mention. The car came from an estate sale and was owned by a little old lady who had it meticulously serviced. When I disassembled the rear brakes I found that the drums AND the shoes were in great shape and worked fine with no binding so I did not replace them. I took tons of photos but my computer/cell phone expert accidently deleted permanently all my photos and contacts when "fixing" my cell phone. NYNick: My W spring and shoes are installed exactly as per the photo you provided with both the spring and the lower tips of the shoes sitting behind the triangular bracket. Now I am really confused as it appears I have done everything right.

I am rebuilding my '74 2002 rear subframe: Bilstein sport shocks, H&R lowering springs, urethane bushings, ST sway bars etc, I am at the final stage, reassembling the drum brakes. The problem is I cannot get the drums to fit over the brake shoes. I have the two adjuster bolts fully in board. The upper tips of the shoes are fully inserted into the rubber wheel cylinder cups. The arms of the return spring assembly are fully into the notches in the shoes. The W spring is installed but I still cannot get the shoes to move inboard enough to get the drum over everything. I tapped, squeezed and aligned everything I can think of but no luck. Must have done something wrong but what? One possible problem: At the bottom of the backing plate there is a triangular bracket with rounded corners held on by two large rivets. Can someone tell me if the lower tips of the brake shoes fit behind this bracket with the W spring or in front? I have them behind the bracket now. I've checked every photo here and videos on YouTube but can find no clear views of this area. Thanks in advance for any assistance offered.

Try Kevin Sharrah Designs, Chico, CA. They do all sorts of wild designs in vinyl for sprint cars, passenger and commercial vehicles. They just did custom cowl induction style stripes for the hood of my 1989 Corvette and a small piece in dark red to cover the woodgrain pattern around my '74 instrument cluster.

Great prooject. Well Done! I'd like to know the specifics of the blue power coated intake manifold in the 17 and 18 photos (from the top). I need one like it badly for my current 2002 project.

Car is ready for paint and most parts other than upholstery are done. The local shop that specializes in superchargers is ready to build the custom unit and plumbing and install it on my rebuilt engine...... but we'd like to see some photos of the intake manifold/plenum and fuel rail from previous supercharger installations. I've searched this site and Google but have not been able to find a photo that clearly shows the intake manifold/plenum and fuel rail. Thanks in advance for any assistance. I have heard a company named Camden made supercharger kits for the 2002. We would like to see a photo of their solution.

I've got a pair of very lightly used Wilwood calipers and pads for sale. They only fit 2002 tii struts.

The guy here in Chico uses Megasquirt with individual throttles bodies and his custom made intake manifolds. He said he can do his part for under $1500. He charged a buddy of mine $1200 for the setup on his 1969 Toyota Corona 22 RE. Of course I have to supply a good rebuilt engine. I am still gathering information as to what pistons, crank, head and cam I will use. Obviously I need the whole combination to work well together. He says he can tune the Megasquirt to any engine I give him from mild to wild. Maybe 175 hp is too ambitious for carbs or straight EFI. I have been looking at the Sprintex superchargers. Met them at SEMA and was very impressed with their products, though they are quite expensive. They have nothing specifically for a 2002 so air intake and manifold will have to be custom made. If I decide on the Sprintex unit it seems best to go with EFI for the tuneability. Is there any downside, other than cost, to using a stroker crank with supercharging? A few years ago I saw a video (don't remember if it was on TV or Youtube) showing some guys in Australia building a supercharged 2002. Can't find it now.

I am doing a restomod build on a 1974 2002 adding a 5 speed, Bilstein sport shocks, H&R lowering springs, ST sway bars, Wildwood big brakes front and rear, 15 x 7 Hartage wheels, E21 Recaro seats etc. My last decision: EFI/Megasquirt or dual Webers. I would like the Forums opinions regarding drivability and performance not installation. I have done several dual carb cars and there is a shop in my hometown that has done very successful Megasquirt installations for several friends of mine. So I feel confident in regards to the installation and tuning of either system. I want a quick street car with low end torque rather than a race car on the street. Is 175 HP possiible?

Why is his price for a Euro long bumper conversion for my '74 2002 nearly three times the price of Aardvark's not including core charge?