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scoopyg

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About scoopyg

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  1. Hi Farshid,  did you receive the email I sent about a week ago?  I'm at [email protected]  I notice in your profile picture that it appears you tucked your front bumper...is that right?    Shoot me an email when you get some time, I'd like to catch up and talk guibo too.    Richard

  2. scoopyg

    scoopyg

  3. Glad to hear you weren't injured. I lost a Volvo 1800 in the same manner a couple of years ago. Amazingly, his insurance company came through rather generously. At that point I once again started to bug the owner of the 18-year-dormant '75 Malaga. The old guy finally relented, and now I enjoy it almost every day.
  4. Thanks just the same Jim, I appreciate the effort.
  5. Thanks Jim, that's nice of you, let me know what you want for it. Pete, I have heard tell of the 123 from my friend Edd W. here with the Tampa 2002 group. After some difficulty with starting and performance, my Cuban mechanic managed to tweak things and get the car running pretty well. Seems the points had walked out of adjustment, a simple issue I overlooked. Running very well now. It just needs the advance to be operable, and I think it will be on a whole...'nuther....level. FINAL QUESTION TO ALL.... I have a bead on a 72 or 73 car, mostly a body shell, but seems like a relatively rust-free car. No engine in the car. Is there a market for such a thing? Not sure yet if it would be a TII, I doubt it. My friends at the NAPA store saw me pull up in my 75, and they told me of this roundie behind a local shop. I drove to the shop that Sunday and sure enough there it sat. I was thinking that rather than see it sit rotting behind the guy's shop while they work on monster trucks, I might see if I could buy it and pass it along to an enthusiast who could get it back on the road. What's a good roundie body worth? Cheers all, Rich PS, I am on several car forums, and this one by far has the most knowledgeable and courteous membership. Well done FAQ
  6. Thanks to all you fellas for you advice. I now have some options to pursue. One thing I forgot was to ask the encyclopedic Geoff Hazelton at Motorkars in Columbus. Thanks again all. Hi Farshid!
  7. You lost me there... Gas mileage isn't the issue. The issue is that the vacuum pod on the distributor evidently has a blown diaphragm. It isn't connected on my car for that reason, and the vacuum tube off the manifold is capped off, so as not to have a vacuum leak. My question is....where can I buy a new vacuum pod for this distributor? thanks again for any assistance.
  8. My vacuum advance on my 75 Malaga leaks, which has caused some headaches in the performance department. So, rather than search all over the internet, I knew it would be most expedient just to ask you kind folks where I could obtain a new unit. I have a stock distributor, Bosch, # 231 115 171. Thanks for any constructive assistance you may be able to offer. Rich in Tampa
  9. Thanks Jim, you are correct, the longer screw was in the wrong place, and causing the problem of rotation of the distributor. Now to solve the spark problem....
  10. Thanks gents for all the advice. BUT...this just got even weirder and potentially more ominous. I decided to remove the Pertronix and replace the points, just to see if I could get any spark from the point set up. As I was re-installing the points, I realized that the distributor isn't turning freely. It will only turn 1/2 turn before stopping in either direction. However, the drive gear on the distributor looks fine...no broken teeth, no damage at all. SO....might the drive gear inside the engine be broken as a result of the newly-locked distributor? What now? Thanks again, Rich in Tampa
  11. Farshid! Hello my friend! Hope you are well up in snowy Ohio today. Thanks for your help as always. I traced the "speaker" wire to the spot in the middle of the firewall, and pulled back the blue sheathing. The clear wire is joined at that spot to a green wire. The splice appears to be done with electrical friction tape. I follow the green wire along the firewall, and it terminates in a small orange box on the driver's fender. As I remove the cover off the top of the orange box, I see just connectors in there, that's all. I would appear the wire goes nowhere. Richard Farshid! Hello my friend! Hope you are well up in snowy Ohio today. Thanks for your help as always. I traced the "speaker" wire to the spot in the middle of the firewall, and pulled back the blue sheathing. The clear wire is joined at that spot to a green wire. The splice appears to be done with electrical friction tape. I follow the green wire along the firewall, and it terminates in a small orange box on the driver's fender. As I remove the cover off the top of the orange box, I see just connectors in there, that's all. I would appear the wire goes nowhere. Richard
  12. My car is a '75 (10/74). Indeed there is a wire with clear insulation that is bundled together with the power wire to the + side of the coil. Sok do I have the wrong coil? My coil states "for use without external resistor".
  13. My car is a '75 (10/74). Indeed there is a wire with clear insulation that is bundled together with the power wire to the + side of the coil. Sok do I have the wrong coil? My coil states "for use without external resistor".
  14. No resistor that I see, or ever did see. Resistance across the coil (one probe on the negative side, one on the positive side) reads almost 2.5 ohms.
  15. Where would I check the resistance with my meter? RE: a ballast resistor, I honestly don't know if I have one of those or not. Where would it be located? The coil I bought says it's for use without an external resistor.


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