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CaptJ

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  1. Hey guys! Still at it. Slow but steady (mostly) progress. I have the rear sub-frame down and I think I have a good way of suspending the engine to drop the front sub-frame. Still a few more things to disconnect on that before dropping. Here is the album for the rear sub frame. Lots of old bushings. I'm researching the steps on taking out the stub shafts. Seems I just need a puller? Any other tips or things I should look out for? As for front camber, I'm currently thinking I'll reassemble just with some fixed camber plates from IE and stock arms and see where I am at camber, caster, and fender clearance wise. I also found these control arms that seem to be a nice compromise between stock and Bavarian arms if I decide to try that route. So we shall see.
  2. Joysterm, thank you for your tips and thoughts. Yep, I am sure a brake upgrade of some sort is down the road. I need to research and see if there are options that still allow smaller diameter rims, just in case the car become a bit unbearable around town, it could be nice to have a set of 14in 60side wall tires to help. This winter/spring I'm thinking suspension, fuel pump replacement (came with an electric one pushing out 12psi which I think when regulated down is causing issues on hot days. Also need to rewire it to include some sort of relay or something in case of an accident), valve clearances, timing chain tension, 123 dizzy, and fix differential leak and, some small engine leaks. So, unless it is hard to do a brake upgrade later, thinking of postponing that till the next project winter. Thank you for the photo of the tension arm halboyles! That will indeed be quite helpful. Still wondering if anyone here has installed the Bavaria control arms and have pictures along with pros and cons? I found this thread but a pretty old thread and not completely clear whether flares are needed. I'd prefer not to flare if possible. I am open to alternatives but it seems the only other alternatives are adjustable camber plates (which means I'd also need coil-overs or smaller diameter springs), or going crazy on custom parts (which I don't currently have the capability to design and make).
  3. Hello fellow 2002 enthusiasts! It has been a few busy years since I've posted here but I've been dabbling on the 2002 here and there as time has allowed. Some facts and goals to help with suggestions/corrections. I envision the car to be a weekend/autocross/track day car. Maybe with occasional long weekend trips. Current Suspension: - Bilstein Sports all 4 corners - Korman clubsport suspension (stronger springs that lower the car 1.5 inches, 22 mm front and 19 mm adjustable rear sway bars with poly bushings) -Old or original rubber everywhere else -Rota RBs 15x7 et25 with 195/50R15 BFGoodrich G-Force Sports Current Plan: -Remove both front (if I can suspend the engine) and rear sub-frames, arms etc -disassemble, clean, and powder-coat -replace all but rear sub-frame, diff, and engine bushings with polyurethane Questions I have: 1. What hardware, if any should be replaced regardless of condition? I've seen the half shaft bolts mentioned in one thread. 2. Bushing recommendations/cautions on poly/not poly in places 3. Any modifications recommended for more adjustment for the rear? Or is this only really important for full on race work? 4. Any reinforcement recommendations (engine mount already reinforced by PO)? 5. The big one, looking for suggestions/thoughts on the front suspension. See pictures below. How the car looks currently on the ground. The noticeable difference in caster between the two sides once lifted up. It equals about an inch of difference in rough wheel base measurements and means the passenger side foot well gets lots of tire rubbing. I suspect it could be at least in part due to a previous owner not being consistent in washer placement on the tension arms (BTW, which way is correct?). I'm guessing some is also worn bushings. Would like at least as much caster as the driver's side, if not just a wee bit more. I also will need more negative camber. I didn't think to measure it before lifting it but I have very little, if any as far as I can recall/see in the pictures. What I've read often suggests camber plates but, you also then need smaller diameter springs/perch to get more than -0.5 ° or so degrees. I have read that Bavaria control arms will help both caster and camber but it is not clear if it does it to the point of making things unbearable on the street. Hoping for some tips and feedback as I continue to research, disassemble, and figure out the best places to purchase needed components (open to recommendations there too!). Thank you!
  4. Hey everyone. Stumbled upon the original forum thread that became this article. For some reason the photos thankfully still show there.
  5. CaptJ

    CaptJ

  6. I'll be at St. Johns Saturday for the Concours d'LeMons and Cars and Coffee so feel free to come by and say hey. (I'll be parked in the Concours d'LeMons...). More Information: http://www.concoursusa.org/ Cars and coffee http://www.concoursdlemons.com/index.php/concours-dlemons-michigan-2016/ Concours d'LeMons
  7. CaptJ

    1973 BMW 2002

    Photos for technical questions and for showing up the progress of my car.
  8. From the album: 1973 BMW 2002

    After giving the starter a quick flick to put tension back on that side, the chain has very little slack due to the increase in tension.
  9. From the album: 1973 BMW 2002

    This is the slack in the timing chain with all the tension taken off that side (turned back crackshaft a bit). Is this too much slack?
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