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About CaptJ

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  1. Joysterm, thank you for your tips and thoughts. Yep, I am sure a brake upgrade of some sort is down the road. I need to research and see if there are options that still allow smaller diameter rims, just in case the car become a bit unbearable around town, it could be nice to have a set of 14in 60side wall tires to help. This winter/spring I'm thinking suspension, fuel pump replacement (came with an electric one pushing out 12psi which I think when regulated down is causing issues on hot days. Also need to rewire it to include some sort of relay or something in case of an accident), valve clearances, timing chain tension, 123 dizzy, and fix differential leak and, some small engine leaks. So, unless it is hard to do a brake upgrade later, thinking of postponing that till the next project winter. Thank you for the photo of the tension arm halboyles! That will indeed be quite helpful. Still wondering if anyone here has installed the Bavaria control arms and have pictures along with pros and cons? I found this thread but a pretty old thread and not completely clear whether flares are needed. I'd prefer not to flare if possible. I am open to alternatives but it seems the only other alternatives are adjustable camber plates (which means I'd also need coil-overs or smaller diameter springs), or going crazy on custom parts (which I don't currently have the capability to design and make).
  2. Hello fellow 2002 enthusiasts! It has been a few busy years since I've posted here but I've been dabbling on the 2002 here and there as time has allowed. Some facts and goals to help with suggestions/corrections. I envision the car to be a weekend/autocross/track day car. Maybe with occasional long weekend trips. Current Suspension: - Bilstein Sports all 4 corners - Korman clubsport suspension (stronger springs that lower the car 1.5 inches, 22 mm front and 19 mm adjustable rear sway bars with poly bushings) -Old or original rubber everywhere else -Rota RBs 15x7 et25 with 195/50R15 BFGoodrich G-Force Sports Current Plan: -Remove both front (if I can suspend the engine) and rear sub-frames, arms etc -disassemble, clean, and powder-coat -replace all but rear sub-frame, diff, and engine bushings with polyurethane Questions I have: 1. What hardware, if any should be replaced regardless of condition? I've seen the half shaft bolts mentioned in one thread. 2. Bushing recommendations/cautions on poly/not poly in places 3. Any modifications recommended for more adjustment for the rear? Or is this only really important for full on race work? 4. Any reinforcement recommendations (engine mount already reinforced by PO)? 5. The big one, looking for suggestions/thoughts on the front suspension. See pictures below. How the car looks currently on the ground. The noticeable difference in caster between the two sides once lifted up. It equals about an inch of difference in rough wheel base measurements and means the passenger side foot well gets lots of tire rubbing. I suspect it could be at least in part due to a previous owner not being consistent in washer placement on the tension arms (BTW, which way is correct?). I'm guessing some is also worn bushings. Would like at least as much caster as the driver's side, if not just a wee bit more. I also will need more negative camber. I didn't think to measure it before lifting it but I have very little, if any as far as I can recall/see in the pictures. What I've read often suggests camber plates but, you also then need smaller diameter springs/perch to get more than -0.5 ° or so degrees. I have read that Bavaria control arms will help both caster and camber but it is not clear if it does it to the point of making things unbearable on the street. Hoping for some tips and feedback as I continue to research, disassemble, and figure out the best places to purchase needed components (open to recommendations there too!). Thank you!
  3. Hey everyone. Stumbled upon the original forum thread that became this article. For some reason the photos thankfully still show there.
  4. CaptJ


  5. Man finally found someone in Michigan with an 02'. Been looking for someone on this site for a while. Please keep me informed with upcoming events and information so I can join in.



  6. Hey all. I have gotten my car back on the road. Still trying to find some time to get it to a shop to get the wide-band installed but yesterday was having issues where it would suddenly stall for no apparent reason at idle. Seems to drive fine otherwise. It did this at 1/4 choke as well. It was about 90 °F ambient and didn't seem to exhibit this issue upon initial starting to warm up (though the choke was about 1/2-3/4 during this). It doesn't seem to be a too rich of an idle that fouls the plugs stall (had that issue last year). So is this what a too lean of an idle acts like? Thanks for any ideas! Also, is this the normal amount of engine shake for our wonderful 2002s? I was told by the PO that he'd reinforced the weak engine mount and as far as I can tell it has indeed been strengthened and I don't see any obvious issues with them but maybe I don't know what to look for.
  7. I'll be at St. Johns Saturday for the Concours d'LeMons and Cars and Coffee so feel free to come by and say hey. (I'll be parked in the Concours d'LeMons...). More Information: http://www.concoursusa.org/ Cars and coffee http://www.concoursdlemons.com/index.php/concours-dlemons-michigan-2016/ Concours d'LeMons
  8. Where in Michigan?  I'm from Torch River (near TC).

    1. CaptJ


      Detroit area so not particularly close sadly.

  9. Thank you for the info. I searched TEP's website and couldn't find where you found these recommendations?
  10. Thank you for the feedback Lee and Toby. For now I'll rebuild it as is but I will definitely keep your thoughts in mind Lee. Now for gasket kits. I seem to have found three completely different kits. Not sure which one to get besides getting the 2.00 needle and seat. https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=92.1047.05M&CartID=1 http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=92.3247.05&CartID=2 http://www.carburetion.com/_aspstuff/cucart.aspx Thank you!
  11. TobyB, It seems that it was indeed then in the ballpark when on the car so that is reasonably comforting. Now to hope I didn't let all the black magic out when I opened it up... Lee, thank you for your suggestion. I don't have a huge understanding on all the aspects of engine and engine tuning just yet. My basic understanding on choke size is that smaller is for better low end torque and higher is for better high end breathing. With that said, you seem to be suggesting that the combination of 9.5 pistons and a 292 regrind will not breath well enough at the top end to desire to rev past 5500 6000 rpm (based on charts of displacement vs choke size like the one in the link in my first post.)?
  12. I will definitely check the float level. This right number of bypasses is new to me. The top cover is pictured and is stamped "45DCOE 152" and below that "107 02". I have no letter after 152 like some of you seem to have. The throttle plates seem unmodified. I seem to have three progression holes (these the bypass holes by chance?). I remember while on the car, the edge of the throttle plates could be seen covering the first progression hole so I don't think the progressive circuit being used at idle should be a problem but I could be wrong. The car has an electric fuel pump with one of those adjustable dials ahead of it in the fuel line and I have it set to 2.5 psi, if it is accurate. I did find it to be too high at one point (oops) and turned it down but didn't seem to notice much if any difference. Starter Jets are 150 Accelerator Pump inlet valve is 40 Accelerator Pump Jets are 45 For cleaning, how far should I disassemble it? There is an ultrasonic cleaning tank at my work. Are those at all useful for such things? I've attached some pictures so I don't have to write thousands of words. Thank you all for your suggestions!
  13. Hello all! About a two years ago I acquired a 1973 BMW 2002 that had been modded but then left to sit for a few years. As remembered by the previous owner, the specific engine mods were: E12 head with: All casting removed from rockers Rocker lockers 292 regrind Valve seats recut and hand lapped Port and polish Engine: 9.5:1 pistons Windage tray FLame Thrower coil Pertronix electronic ignition Intake: Lynx manifold with (1) Weber 45 DCOE with a 36 choke Exhaust: shorty headers straight pipe with resonator magnaflow/SuperTrapp interchangeable exhaust The car does run and drive decently enough but is running rich at idle and possibly elsewhere in the rev range. Also if the throttle is opened suddenly it seems to momentarily stumble or hesitate, making me think the injector pump isn't working or the wrong size. Once I get that pulled out, I'll know the size. It may also be happening during the transition from the idle to main circuit as, if I recall correctly, higher rpm rapid adjustments do not show this issue. Doing some research I have replaced the 55F6 idle jet and 155 air corrector with 50F8 and 195 respectively as prescribed by this site: http://cnx.org/contents/[email protected]/Selection-and-Tuning-of-Weber-. I also have a 200 air corrector jet. So currently it has: Idle: 50F8 Air corrector: 195 Emulsion Tube: F16 Main: 145 Starter Jets: 150 Accelerator Pump inlet valve: 40 Accelerator Pump Jets: 45 Pump Bleed Backs (not sure what these are?): TBA Pump Rods: TBA I have found that adjusting the idle mixture screws makes no noticeable difference to the idle. If the car is left to idle for a few minutes it will start to stumble and eventually quit. This can be postponed by engine reving to, I am guessing, clean the spark plugs (haven't had a chance to pull one yet). It also the exhaust smells very rich. I am guessing I need to further decrease the size of my idle jet to correct this? As for the main jet settings. Does anything stand out as being incorrect? I have the timing set at about stock but I don't believe the distributor is a Tii which from research means I don't have as good of an advance curve as I'd like? Any advice there? I have currently pulled the carb off the car to give it a quick cleaning, look over, and basic rebuild. I plan on buying one of those choke delete kits and removing that assembly from the equation since I have yet to ever need it or find it helpful. Any advice for or against that would be welcome. I am also planning on looking into an air/fuel mixture setup to assist in tuning and any recommendations or tips would be helpful. Thanks in advance for the help! Corey
  14. Hello all, I have been browsing the forums a bit already as a spectator gleaning useful information as I work on my recently acquired '73. While I was doing a valve adjustment a friend suggested I check my timing chain tension too. After turning the crank back a bit by hand we took a look at how much the chain moved. I don't have anything to compare it to but he seemed to think it moved around quite a bit. See the first two photos in my album and their descriptions. Upon doing various searches I read to check the tensioner. i haven't pulled it out yet but I tried applying some pressure to it with the bolt loosened to bleed it. It didn't seem to need it or make any difference. The previous owner had recently rebuilt the motor but the chain doesn't seem to be new? Any advice as to whether I should go through the effort of putting on a new timing chain or is this considered "normal" slack? Thanks! Corey

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