CaptJ

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About CaptJ

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  1. Hey all. I have gotten my car back on the road. Still trying to find some time to get it to a shop to get the wide-band installed but yesterday was having issues where it would suddenly stall for no apparent reason at idle. Seems to drive fine otherwise. It did this at 1/4 choke as well. It was about 90 °F ambient and didn't seem to exhibit this issue upon initial starting to warm up (though the choke was about 1/2-3/4 during this). It doesn't seem to be a too rich of an idle that fouls the plugs stall (had that issue last year). So is this what a too lean of an idle acts like? Thanks for any ideas! Also, is this the normal amount of engine shake for our wonderful 2002s? I was told by the PO that he'd reinforced the weak engine mount and as far as I can tell it has indeed been strengthened and I don't see any obvious issues with them but maybe I don't know what to look for.
  2. I'll be at St. Johns Saturday for the Concours d'LeMons and Cars and Coffee so feel free to come by and say hey. (I'll be parked in the Concours d'LeMons...). More Information: http://www.concoursusa.org/ Cars and coffee http://www.concoursdlemons.com/index.php/concours-dlemons-michigan-2016/ Concours d'LeMons
  3. Thank you for the info. I searched TEP's website and couldn't find where you found these recommendations?
  4. Thank you for the feedback Lee and Toby. For now I'll rebuild it as is but I will definitely keep your thoughts in mind Lee. Now for gasket kits. I seem to have found three completely different kits. Not sure which one to get besides getting the 2.00 needle and seat. https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=92.1047.05M&CartID=1 http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=92.3247.05&CartID=2 http://www.carburetion.com/_aspstuff/cucart.aspx Thank you!
  5. TobyB, It seems that it was indeed then in the ballpark when on the car so that is reasonably comforting. Now to hope I didn't let all the black magic out when I opened it up... Lee, thank you for your suggestion. I don't have a huge understanding on all the aspects of engine and engine tuning just yet. My basic understanding on choke size is that smaller is for better low end torque and higher is for better high end breathing. With that said, you seem to be suggesting that the combination of 9.5 pistons and a 292 regrind will not breath well enough at the top end to desire to rev past 5500 6000 rpm (based on charts of displacement vs choke size like the one in the link in my first post.)?
  6. I will definitely check the float level. This right number of bypasses is new to me. The top cover is pictured and is stamped "45DCOE 152" and below that "107 02". I have no letter after 152 like some of you seem to have. The throttle plates seem unmodified. I seem to have three progression holes (these the bypass holes by chance?). I remember while on the car, the edge of the throttle plates could be seen covering the first progression hole so I don't think the progressive circuit being used at idle should be a problem but I could be wrong. The car has an electric fuel pump with one of those adjustable dials ahead of it in the fuel line and I have it set to 2.5 psi, if it is accurate. I did find it to be too high at one point (oops) and turned it down but didn't seem to notice much if any difference. Starter Jets are 150 Accelerator Pump inlet valve is 40 Accelerator Pump Jets are 45 For cleaning, how far should I disassemble it? There is an ultrasonic cleaning tank at my work. Are those at all useful for such things? I've attached some pictures so I don't have to write thousands of words. Thank you all for your suggestions!
  7. Hello all! About a two years ago I acquired a 1973 BMW 2002 that had been modded but then left to sit for a few years. As remembered by the previous owner, the specific engine mods were: E12 head with: All casting removed from rockers Rocker lockers 292 regrind Valve seats recut and hand lapped Port and polish Engine: 9.5:1 pistons Windage tray FLame Thrower coil Pertronix electronic ignition Intake: Lynx manifold with (1) Weber 45 DCOE with a 36 choke Exhaust: shorty headers straight pipe with resonator magnaflow/SuperTrapp interchangeable exhaust The car does run and drive decently enough but is running rich at idle and possibly elsewhere in the rev range. Also if the throttle is opened suddenly it seems to momentarily stumble or hesitate, making me think the injector pump isn't working or the wrong size. Once I get that pulled out, I'll know the size. It may also be happening during the transition from the idle to main circuit as, if I recall correctly, higher rpm rapid adjustments do not show this issue. Doing some research I have replaced the 55F6 idle jet and 155 air corrector with 50F8 and 195 respectively as prescribed by this site: http://cnx.org/contents/oKbaEWQ3@2/Selection-and-Tuning-of-Weber-. I also have a 200 air corrector jet. So currently it has: Idle: 50F8 Air corrector: 195 Emulsion Tube: F16 Main: 145 Starter Jets: 150 Accelerator Pump inlet valve: 40 Accelerator Pump Jets: 45 Pump Bleed Backs (not sure what these are?): TBA Pump Rods: TBA I have found that adjusting the idle mixture screws makes no noticeable difference to the idle. If the car is left to idle for a few minutes it will start to stumble and eventually quit. This can be postponed by engine reving to, I am guessing, clean the spark plugs (haven't had a chance to pull one yet). It also the exhaust smells very rich. I am guessing I need to further decrease the size of my idle jet to correct this? As for the main jet settings. Does anything stand out as being incorrect? I have the timing set at about stock but I don't believe the distributor is a Tii which from research means I don't have as good of an advance curve as I'd like? Any advice there? I have currently pulled the carb off the car to give it a quick cleaning, look over, and basic rebuild. I plan on buying one of those choke delete kits and removing that assembly from the equation since I have yet to ever need it or find it helpful. Any advice for or against that would be welcome. I am also planning on looking into an air/fuel mixture setup to assist in tuning and any recommendations or tips would be helpful. Thanks in advance for the help! Corey
  8. Hello all, I have been browsing the forums a bit already as a spectator gleaning useful information as I work on my recently acquired '73. While I was doing a valve adjustment a friend suggested I check my timing chain tension too. After turning the crank back a bit by hand we took a look at how much the chain moved. I don't have anything to compare it to but he seemed to think it moved around quite a bit. See the first two photos in my album and their descriptions. Upon doing various searches I read to check the tensioner. i haven't pulled it out yet but I tried applying some pressure to it with the bolt loosened to bleed it. It didn't seem to need it or make any difference. The previous owner had recently rebuilt the motor but the chain doesn't seem to be new? Any advice as to whether I should go through the effort of putting on a new timing chain or is this considered "normal" slack? Thanks! Corey
  9. CaptJ

    1973 BMW 2002

    Photos for technical questions and for showing up the progress of my car.