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Laurent1602

Solex
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Everything posted by Laurent1602

  1. Is there anyone on the FAQ who has these bumpers and can confirm the nice quality and fitment?
  2. Yes, you can certainly have someone on the passenger seat to make adjustments, I did it like this as well! It only looks a bit weird to be in your 40 year old car with your laptop making adjustments but it's worth it
  3. I found the curves! The one I got, and the one I'm using, just smoothened it up a bit and added 2° more as maximum advancement. IgnitionCurve.xml IgnitionCurveAltered.xml
  4. Well, I've been driving my 02 for some time now with the 123 on it, and it's great! I'm using the curve of a 2002 with dual sidedrafts on my 1602 without any problem. Sure I might get that one hp more if I'd tune the curve perfectly but it runs great now, and I don't have my own dyno to try some things out so I'll just leave it as it is. The car has been on the dyno for jetting and now has 90hp and a nice, linear curve (attached below). Sounds great as well As I'm using the curve of a 2002 with dual Webers on my 1602 with dual Solex, I guess you'll be fine using this curve (without vacuum). If you want to use your vacuum as well, I'd make the curve a little less agressive but it's a good starting point for sure! Only problem is, I can't find the curve right now but I'll post it when I have it!
  5. We have a E9 in restauration here, and just stripping it revealed a lot. But sodablasting what was left revealed a lot more! If you want to get it completely right, it's a no-brainer imo
  6. I'm aware it might not be completely solved, time will tell, but if it ain't broken (for now..) dont fix it If it happens again and I find a real cause/solution I'll let you know.
  7. I was until today really convinced miracles don't happen. I just went back to the car to clean the contacts, but I wanted to check again begore I started. Somehow, everything was just fine again. I tightened the contacts to the battery a bit more because they were a little loose and I went for a nice drive. If it happens again I'll investigate a bit more, but it seems to be bad contacts somewhere... If anything else related to this pops up I'll let you know!
  8. Well, I guess I'll start with your list then, it might solve a part or the whole issue. I'll keep you posted!
  9. I was excited to drive my 02 again because it was a while ago. It didn't start immediatly ofcourse. While trying for the second time, suddenly everything stopped working, all lights out on the dash too. Nothing electrical still seems to function. The battery still gives 12V and the fuses don't appear to be broken. I tought this is very strange because it happened so suddenly, when I was starting the car everything seemed normal and the starter was working at a normal speed. All connections to the battery seem to be OK. Anyone who can help?
  10. Today I installed the 123 and... Wow! I can recommend it to everyone who wants to upgrade his ignition with a (near to) stock look. My car never pulled so strong and it never worked so smooth before. I've had a Pertronix and I can tell you this is really another leage imo. I uploaded the curve from someone with a 2002 with dual Webers and it works like a charm. Just to give an example, with my Solex PHH40's it couldn't idle well when cold (and even not when warm) without giving some throttle. The RPM's would slowly but sure decrease and in about 15-30 sec it stopped without some throttle. Now it starts without touching the pedal and idles smooth immedeatly around 500 when cold (without choke) and 1000 when warm. Tomorrow I'm bringing it to the garage to get the carbs correctly and put in on the dyno saturday. I'm really curious what it's going to look like when finished
  11. I really like the idea, but I'd rather not tap my original intake manifold because they're pretty hard to find (for 1.6 and 1.8). Maybe later if it doesn't please me enough without vacuum.
  12. I started doubting again while checking my Haynes manual. The values given for a 1602 give a lot more advance than for a Ti or Tii, and since the 123 is programmable, why wouldn't I go for it? The only thing holding me back is that Haynes' values give a LOT of advance compared to all of the graphs you find here and on other sites... More then 40° seems not like a good idea to me actually.
  13. It has a completely programmable vacuum too, but I can't use it with my sidedrafts. Yeah, you're probably right. I guess I'll start with a ti curve and experiment a little more from there on, because nowadays our crappy fuel needs a little more advance according to some sources. Anyone who can confirm that?
  14. Cutting springs is never a good idea imo. A spring is designed to compress a certain length for a certain load, cutting them won't change how much it compress when loaded, but your car will be lower. Your wheels will touch the car's body (a lot) more. All of this depends of course from how much you want to cut them. Will it permanently damage your car? Probably not, even more, it's probably not even that bad. Would I do it? Never
  15. More information about the 123ignition and all of its advantages can be found here http://www.leenapk.nl/informatie_over_123ignition.html?language_code=en I found the curves to which you refer yesterday, but these are only the mechanical advance curves, so it probably looks different when the vacuum is attached. (That's why the curve I made is a little more aggressive and goes to more advance in total) I based my curve on a curve I found on internet (can't seem to find it back...) and the curve of someone with a 2002 with 123ignition, but his curve had a little less advance.
  16. Hi, I recently installed Solex PHH40's and, even without rejetting them yet, I love it! Next week, my car will go to an expert to be rejetted and tested on a dyno. But, before all of that I'd like to solve another problem. My original Solex downdraft had a connection for the vacuum advance on the intake manifold, but now with the sidedrafts that's gone of course. In the search of a solution for this problem, I found that I could install a tii distributor, but I read that the curve of a tii isn't really agressive enough for non-ignition cars. I finally went for, probably, the best solution I could find: a 123ignition. It's pretty much a state-of-the art electronic ignition in wich you can freely program the advance curve. What really convinced me were all of the very positive reviews on the internet, saying that their cars never ran so nice as with the 123ignition. Is there anyone here with such a system and who can give me some directions for the advance curve? I have already tried something, based on a lot of information on the internet. All ideas or opinions are welcome! Regards, Laurent
  17. Thanks for the advice! I already found someone willing to sell me his orignal airbox for a nice price, so I guess I'll go that way, and use an original paper filter. It's not the most beautiful looking option under the hood, but driving fun exceeds looks imo. Normally I should have all the parts in a week or so, and then I can finally start mounting them! I'm really excited to get them on my car, because everyone tells me it makes a pretty big diffence in driving fun. If I encounter any problems while mounting them, you'll read it here And of course I'll also post the final result
  18. Thanks for the reply! I guess I'll start looking for a OEM airbox then. And for the PHH's, it never really was my intention to make it complete ti because, as you say, that means a lot more than double carbs. I'd be glad if I can enjoy the nice sound of a double carburetted engine and get a little more power. I don't really care if I could get 5hp more actually, it's not a race car Thanks to you all for the advice!
  19. And does the OEM airbox fit with an non-ti(i) brake booster? And how about trumpets like this in combination with Ramair filters like this?
  20. Nice to see wich plates you're all having on your 02's! If vanity plates only were as cheap over here as in the US, I'd immediatly go and get M-10-PWR but a vanity plate costs here... Wait for it... €1000... Also, you must have the - between numbers and letters. 75-FJORD would be nice too
  21. It is built in 1975... ... On April 24th to be exact
  22. Hi Lars, I was just reading some on the forum about the K&N filters and it seems they're not very good for the engine, so I guess that's out of question now. Rejetting is no problem, as that would have to happen anyway because the carbs came from a 2L engine and are now indeed going on a 1.6L. It's nice to have the right values for the venturis, jets,... Thanks! Of course I don't want a 'Luftpumpe', but I like the word
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