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dlacey

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Everything posted by dlacey

  1. dlacey
    There's two mixture adjustments on a tii, the famous "verboten screw" (which is forbidden for good reason) and the "tuna can" airflow adjusting screw. You can think of these two adjustments as defining the mixture at two 'ends' of a mixture map. The verboten screw end is the free-breathing, throttle wide open, high revs end of the map (adjusting here affects fuelling) The tuna can is the closed-throttle idle mixture adjustment (adjusting here affects airflow). So it depends where you think it's running lean....if it's low down revs and idle then adjust the tuna can (in 1/8 -1/16 turn increments anticlockwise to richen).. if it's lean higher up the I would first experiment with a few folds of aluminium foil jammed between the verboten screw and it's stop to confirm/check that this improves the situation in a road test...only if that is confirmed and you are absolutely sure nothing else is wrong, then adjust the verboten screw carefully...keeping pics/notes in case you wanna 'undo' later.
  2. dlacey
    The red wire is a continuous 12V supply for the 123 electronics (when ignition on). The black is a permanent ground for both the 123 electronics and also the coil (via the switching transistor inside 123).. grounding to the body near the dizzy should be fine (I used the coil mounting screw for the ground). I don't see any problem with connecting all three wires. I guess they may suggest leaving blue disconnected so there aren't High Tension sparks while the dizzy is being adjusted in that initial setup.
  3. dlacey
    as @Son of Marty said, sounds weak when warm. Since you did the head skim last summer, the Throttle body or manifolds must have been removed and re-installed, that likely has disturbed the mechanical alignment of the linkage. You say the linkage is adjusted correctly, all good... now you need to do a warm running adjustment of the mixture with the small screw inside the tuna can. 1) warm-up the engine fully 2) open tuna can and mark the small screw with a marker pen so you dont lose track of turns. 3) use a small screwdriver to turn the small screw~1/8 turn anti-clockwise ..we might expect revs to rise. 4) continue 1/8 turn increments and monitor revs each increment.. there may be a few increments where revs stabilise, and then revs start to fall again...once that happens, turn the screw one increment back into that zone of maximum revs. Replace Tuna can lid & test drive... if it still doesnt pull smoothly, try an extra 1/8 turn anticlockwise, but dont go too rich as it will kill your economy. Once setup, these KF synchronisations stay good for years.
  4. dlacey
    A good radiator shop could modify that bottom outlet, its all brass/copper & solder: Blank-off the original and put an elbow at the end.
  5. dlacey
    I would start by doing the WUR rebuild, it's a separate part on the back of the pump. KF pumps themselves are extremely rugged, I would leave it alone unless you know there's something definitely wrong with it (tests in blue book )
  6. dlacey
    The only part of the pump that's connected to the air plenum is the warm up regulator on the back of the pump. If you did the smoke test with the engine cold, this "air leak" at the WUR could be considered normal operation.... If the engine was warmed up fully during the test then your result suggests the WUR is leaking (not working) or the pipe WUR-plenum compromised.
  7. dlacey
  8. dlacey
    It's good you got a replacement with less spindle wear... But be aware the "4mm hole" is likely not in the same place as your previous throttle body.... I don't think we really know when this 4mm eccentric calibration was done: is it a stand alone TB setting, done when TBs were tested.... Or was it an "on-motor" calibration of the the 4mm eccentric to match the pump and linkage?? So just be aware that you might need to experiment with D cam position instead of relying on the 4mm rod/stop.
  9. dlacey
    So, as I read it, you've removed the manifolds and cylinder head and then reassembled everything. How did you reassemble the the linkage between the KF pump and the throttle body?? Its quite possible that something's shifted with all that disturbance and new gaskets etc... have you re-set the linkage as described in the Blue Book? In my experience, the timing of the KF pump doesnt make a huge difference to mid range , i don't think that's your issue.
  10. dlacey
    Cameron Highlands tour with local car club.
  11. dlacey
    This same car was in Malaysia 2016 till quite recently... I wonder why such an oddity has wandered around the world so much... BMW’s ‘Car of Good Hope’ THESUN.MY By AZLAN RAMLI THANKS to the painful travel restriction, lots of free time and some extra cash lying around, I have...
  12. dlacey
    With W&N its listed for the clutch, but its same part... 17mm ATE grommet: Plug for clutch master cylinder fits for all models and years of manufacturing you need 1 for 1 car WWW.WALLOTHNESCH.COM Plug for clutch master cylinder fits for all models and years of manufacturing you need 1 for 1 car
  13. dlacey
    Oooh, that is not easy to fix... the exact positioning of that ball in the lever is critical to the synchronisation of KF pump to throttle butterfly (air-fuel ratio). To remove that lever from the pump is a big job that is a total pump removal and strip down...see that lever at 5:40 in this video: https://youtu.be/eSBJh4nxETg If it were my 'daily driver' i would likely just push the ball back in the hole & secure it it with a blob of MIG welded kluge. Or, buy a new ball with a threaded base and bolt on a replacement with threadlock: Angle Ball Joint For Throttle Linkage With Nut Fits Mecedes-Benz Man Trucks WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Outer Thread: M6 x 1.00mm. Inner Thread: M6 x 1.00mm. Renault Trucks. Volvo Trucks. Sampa 096.2224. PE Automotive 140.068-00A. Lemforder 22256 01. DT Spare Parts 9.05306.
  14. dlacey
    Part No8 has an internal spring clip, it just pushes on to the ball protruding from the pump lever. Can't clearly see in you picture...has the linkage popped-off the ball or has the ball stayed in the linkage but separated from the pump lever?
  15. dlacey
    I know that the tii TOB is physically longer than the standard carb car bearing (the tii bearing is the one hilited in your pic). i guess thats because the 228mm clutch has different diaphragm spring geometry to the 215mm clutch?
  16. dlacey
    Just like in your photos, i was searching for an O Ring according the AS568 standard... turns-out the AS568 is also an Alaska Airlines flight number... now Google's intelligent search engine is convinced i wanna fly to New Orleans and keeps offering me hotels & rental cars (despite the fact that i live in Asia)...
  17. dlacey
    Theres a rubber air/vacuum pipe between the back of the injection pump (the WUR) and the bottom of the plenum chamber... if that pipe is dislodged or cracked you get a massive air leak. That the only 'source of vacuum' around there apart from the WUR itself. Beware the BMW replacement pipe is poor quality & wont last, best to fashion your own from a piece of vacuum pipe.
  18. dlacey
    Top L-R: MGB, Triumph TR4A, Volvo 122S, Mk1 Triumph Spitfire, 2002, Mk1 Jaguar XJ6, Ferrari355 Middle S2 Jaguar E-type & MGB bottom: Merc W111
  19. dlacey
  20. dlacey
    If you think its the drum condition, try swapping the drum to the other side & see if problem follows? The position of the lining on the brake show is important to manage the geometry of brake drum operations and the 'self-servo' or 'spragging' effect... some aftermarket brake shoes have the linings too long or in the 'wrong place' around the shoe surface (check brake shoes are correct). Filing a 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge of the friction material is a common method to reduce brake grab..maybe worth a try?
  21. dlacey
    This could be ignition event far too advanced causing the engine to 'try to turn backwards' against the starter - static timing is wrong?
  22. dlacey
    Here's a genuine fake to benchmark: BMW E10 1502, 1602,1802,2002 TI TURBO,GENUINE CENTER CONSOLE TRIPLE GUAGE, FULL WWW.EBAY.COM BMW 2002 TII EXTRA TRIPLE GUAGE FOR CENTER CONSOLE. YOU CAN CHECK ALL OF OUR E10 PRODUCTS ON OUR BUTIC. FOR 1602,1502,1802,2002,2002 TI, 2002 TII, 2002 TURBO. EASY TO MOUNT IT WITH DOUBLE FACE TYPE.
  23. dlacey
    Its that big flat disc in the photos earlier in this thread... it pushes down and actuates the enrichment lever on the back of the KF pump.
  24. dlacey
    Sorry to differ, but No i dont think this marginal fuel pressure would give those symptoms....I am sure that under full power condition this ~60% low pressure will cause misfiring and over-lean running...but at idle and dying after rev does not sound like a KF fuel supply issue. It could well be a KF adjustment issue, but i doubt its incoming fuel pressure if its still 20psi+.
  25. dlacey
    Yes agree you can switch the pipe connections within the group of outlets at the end OR the group at the middle of the m/cyl. But concerning original outlet No3, there should be a residual pressure valve (RPV) on that outlet, and that RPV is required for the hydraulic line that goes to the rear brakes. I think it's possible to swap the RPV to whatever outlet you choose to use. Maybe the RPV depends on year? That diagram you show has pressure limiting valves shown instead... I guess that did same job on later cars?
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