Jump to content

dlacey

Turbo
  • Posts

    1,621
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by dlacey

  1. Just like in your photos, i was searching for an O Ring according the AS568 standard... turns-out the AS568 is also an Alaska Airlines flight number... now Google's intelligent search engine is convinced i wanna fly to New Orleans and keeps offering me hotels & rental cars (despite the fact that i live in Asia)...
  2. Theres a rubber air/vacuum pipe between the back of the injection pump (the WUR) and the bottom of the plenum chamber... if that pipe is dislodged or cracked you get a massive air leak. That the only 'source of vacuum' around there apart from the WUR itself. Beware the BMW replacement pipe is poor quality & wont last, best to fashion your own from a piece of vacuum pipe.
  3. Top L-R: MGB, Triumph TR4A, Volvo 122S, Mk1 Triumph Spitfire, 2002, Mk1 Jaguar XJ6, Ferrari355 Middle S2 Jaguar E-type & MGB bottom: Merc W111
  4. If you think its the drum condition, try swapping the drum to the other side & see if problem follows? The position of the lining on the brake show is important to manage the geometry of brake drum operations and the 'self-servo' or 'spragging' effect... some aftermarket brake shoes have the linings too long or in the 'wrong place' around the shoe surface (check brake shoes are correct). Filing a 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge of the friction material is a common method to reduce brake grab..maybe worth a try?
  5. This could be ignition event far too advanced causing the engine to 'try to turn backwards' against the starter - static timing is wrong?
  6. Here's a genuine fake to benchmark: BMW E10 1502, 1602,1802,2002 TI TURBO,GENUINE CENTER CONSOLE TRIPLE GUAGE, FULL WWW.EBAY.COM BMW 2002 TII EXTRA TRIPLE GUAGE FOR CENTER CONSOLE. YOU CAN CHECK ALL OF OUR E10 PRODUCTS ON OUR BUTIC. FOR 1602,1502,1802,2002,2002 TI, 2002 TII, 2002 TURBO. EASY TO MOUNT IT WITH DOUBLE FACE TYPE.
  7. Its that big flat disc in the photos earlier in this thread... it pushes down and actuates the enrichment lever on the back of the KF pump.
  8. Sorry to differ, but No i dont think this marginal fuel pressure would give those symptoms....I am sure that under full power condition this ~60% low pressure will cause misfiring and over-lean running...but at idle and dying after rev does not sound like a KF fuel supply issue. It could well be a KF adjustment issue, but i doubt its incoming fuel pressure if its still 20psi+.
  9. Yes agree you can switch the pipe connections within the group of outlets at the end OR the group at the middle of the m/cyl. But concerning original outlet No3, there should be a residual pressure valve (RPV) on that outlet, and that RPV is required for the hydraulic line that goes to the rear brakes. I think it's possible to swap the RPV to whatever outlet you choose to use. Maybe the RPV depends on year? That diagram you show has pressure limiting valves shown instead... I guess that did same job on later cars?
  10. Picking-up on @Son of Marty's point: it looks like your fuel supply is plumbed the wrong way? i see something that could be the fuel return line plumbed to the front of the KF pump and the filter may be in the feed line but plumbed to the back of the pump? If its like that it won't work properly because the back of the pump has a one-way pressure-relief valve... The brake binding problem is probably a booster/servo related hydraulic issue... maybe the booster is stuck in some way causing a vacuum leak thats affecting engine running?
  11. This looks like the standard tii fuel pump setup but the pump itself is a later style Bosch replacement. The later pumps aren't all the same size, so it seems somebody got creative to secure it under there. The noise you hear could well be because the pump or output piping has shifted so it's touching the body. Originally that fuel pump bracket is on rubber isolators to keep the noise down.
  12. Originals are now close to unobtainiun: AIR FILTER ELEMENT BMW E10 2002 TURBO - 13721259538 WWW.EBAY.COM Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for AIR FILTER ELEMENT BMW E10 2002 TURBO -...
  13. Theres an unused connector in the wiring loom on the left front of the engine bay, by the Alternator Voltage Regulator... you can plug your driving light 'signal' wire (86 on the relay) into this wiring loom plug and get the driving lights and hi beams to work together. (no need to pull wire thru to the dash)
  14. You could use published fuel economy data in contemporary road test to estimate based on this type of data:
  15. Yes thats a Diode... an LED is also a diode BUT many LEDs have protection from electrostatic-discharge built-in... that protection means they don't behave as a diode..and can even appear 'dead-short' in reverse bias (that could burn the track on your PCB before the LED burns out). So that diode soldered on the board is possibly a PO attempt to provide protection for reverse-biased LEDs (the bulb fitting can be fitted two ways.. OK for a filament lamp, not good for LEDs)
  16. Here's the screw/stop on my car: You can see the yellowish colour stop just below the hose clamp. And here you can see the end of the screw with locknut...and the stop at the centre of the pic (ignore the hose clamp at the top of the pic). When warmed-up that screw moves down to touch the stop...if it doesn't move down then the Warm Up unit or mechanism is faulty. That will cause high idle and over-rich mixture.
  17. Follow Jim & Byron's advice above, and if that most likely cause is eliminated, second area of risk - especially after standing for some time - could be a brake booster air leak...disconnect/plug the pipe to the plenum to see if this is your cause. If yes then maybe the booster will "fix itself" with some heat/cool cycles (that's my experience anyway).
  18. Assuming nothing is seized, this is a 2hour job, maximum.
  19. Here's another data point.. original steel fuel line on a '73 tii Crusty and flared 🙂
  20. Bad earth? Check body connection points.. after a slow crank start carefully touch all the major positive and negative cable connections...the hot one is the bad one.
  21. To eliminate rear brake adjustment as a factor, pull the hand/Ebrake on till the brakes just drag... now if the pedal travel has improved then the issue is the rear brake adjustment and residual pressure valve.... if it makes no difference then...dunno... check if front brake calipers are fitted right way up??
  22. On the >73 cars the headlamps are wired in a clever way so that dip & full beam cannot be turned-on together. As I recall, the full beam relay is earthed thru the dipped beam bulb filament... If that filament is energised then there's no earth and the full beam relay won't operate...if dipbeam is un-energised, the resistance of the filament is low enough to provide earth path for the relay (hi beam relay works)...smart. But when we replace the resistive bulb filament with an LED bulb system, this "secondary function" of the dipped beam bulb to act as the earth for the full beam relay doesn't work. This may be your issue?
  23. https://www.terhechte-edv.de/bmw/2002Turbo.mp4
  24. as seen before, but still elegant! using this kit: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/226555-02-auto-trunk-opener-kit-pre-production-reservation/
×
×
  • Create New...