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dlacey

Turbo
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Everything posted by dlacey

  1. To eliminate rear brake adjustment as a factor, pull the hand/Ebrake on till the brakes just drag... now if the pedal travel has improved then the issue is the rear brake adjustment and residual pressure valve.... if it makes no difference then...dunno... check if front brake calipers are fitted right way up??
  2. On the >73 cars the headlamps are wired in a clever way so that dip & full beam cannot be turned-on together. As I recall, the full beam relay is earthed thru the dipped beam bulb filament... If that filament is energised then there's no earth and the full beam relay won't operate...if dipbeam is un-energised, the resistance of the filament is low enough to provide earth path for the relay (hi beam relay works)...smart. But when we replace the resistive bulb filament with an LED bulb system, this "secondary function" of the dipped beam bulb to act as the earth for the full beam relay doesn't work. This may be your issue?
  3. https://www.terhechte-edv.de/bmw/2002Turbo.mp4
  4. as seen before, but still elegant! using this kit: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/226555-02-auto-trunk-opener-kit-pre-production-reservation/
  5. You can use a digital meter, but its high impedance (and relatively slow response time) can cause some confusion when we are looking for pulsed voltages and stray leakages... the simple lightbulb [with a couple of wires soldered to it] is a useful glovebox diagnostic tool, its low resistance/impedance creates a real load on the circuit under test and its easy to see it flashing when cranking the engine. anyway, in your pic there seems to be a white plastic connecter sheath still plugged-in to coil -ve? If so, unplug that, so that the only thing on coil -ve is your DigitalMeter. Then connect the other DigitalMeter cable to the 123ign signal wire, dont connect any of the other black wires from the original BMW loom... Just Coil -ve to DigitalMeter to 123ign wire. Select the 10A DC range on your DigitalMeter & plug red cable into 10A socket on DigitalMeter. Now crank the engine over and you should see the meter 'flicker' & show some current in the few amp range for a transient moment as engine turns... if it does that then 123ign is good. If it just shows zero then i would really go find a 12V lamp and repeat with that in-place of the DigitalMeter before condemning the 123ign. Once done, remember to switch your digital meter back to voltage range and plug the red cable into the right socket (easy to forget..)
  6. Get back to basics: 1) Establish that the coil works - use a 12V lamp, like a 1156, (not a DVM) to check there is 12V on coil+ve when ignition is on. Pull all wires from coil -ve , using same lamp check the lamp will light when connected Coil -ve to earth. If the lamp lights then coil low tension is 'working'. Now connect an HT lead to coil hi tension , other end to a spark plug with plug body earthed. Now, use a piece of wire to temporarily earth coil -ve... at the moment you remove this wire from coil -ve, there should be a HT spark at sparkplug. If yes, then coil HT and 12V supply confirmed good. 2) Now connect the 123 back to the coil but with the 12V lamp in series between the 123 and coil -ve. As you crank the engine, the lamp should flash (turning ON when coil is charging). If it doesnt flash then 123 is suspect... clean & check its 12V and ground connections... try again...if still no flash then 123 is dead. If it flashes OK then remove lamp and connect 123 to coil -ve... cranking must now create regular sparks at your spark plug. 3) Pull off the ht lead and connect King Lead and plug leads to dizzy cap, connect spark plug to No1 HT lead (body earthed). Crank engine... if you get sparks then ignition is OK, only timing can be at fault. If you dont get sparks then suspect Rotor Arm, Leads, Cap.
  7. A UK-based Triumph car club, that I am a member of, is facing similar challenges... declining membership, less event participation etc. They identify factors such as car values, which drive the cars out-of-reach of younger prospective members, and a simple lack of interest in cars of the 1960s/70s by the Gen Z group. The proud Triumph club is debating merger with the MG club to try to maintain critical mass.... In my experience, the social engagement and activity of a Model/Brand car club is inversely proportional to the value of those Cars... the Rolls Royce club being far less engaging than the Morris Minor club. So, the '02 values that we celebrate might be slowly suffocating the community.... What to do? 1) Globalise - launch '02FAQ in various languages: Spanish, German, Thai etc 2) Consolidate - merge various global '02 websites into one central go-to place 3) Expand - Integrate with E9/E12/E21/E30 sites... or at least actively coordinate with them.
  8. Only problem is that the incandescent still occupies the 'focal point' where the light source should be. The 02 light units expect the light source to emit in 'all directions' and use basic reflectors and plastic micro-lenses to 'fill' the lamp equally with light. If you put your (rather directional) LEDs in some other location the light will 'miss' the reflector and you'll have a bright spot inside the lamp. Of course you can carefully plan placement of your LEDs to minimise that problem. Use LEDs the same colour as the lens if possible (otherwise much of your wrong-colour light is wasted). LEDs generally turn-on at 3V and very bright by 4 V, they get ~exponentially brighter with increasing voltage...so by 5V they are crazy bright and will overheat/die. So 3 LEDs in series should be bright at 12v and too bright at 13.8v... 4 LEDs in series will be bright at 13.8V but a bit dim at 12V... thats why most LED systems include some 'driver' or series resistor.... Maybe, putting 2 LEDs is series with a 6V lamp would work??
  9. Unfortunately Hagerty doesnt exist here: The Amazon CloudFront distribution is configured to block access from your country.
  10. Yes, you can do it that way, if the grub screw is not rotated in a way to be accessible, you can use the 2 flats on the top of the threaded rod to rotate the rod & cone until the grub screw is in view.
  11. It looks like it needs to be re-set, seems the actuator is working OK, just needs calibration.. The centre picture, "full temp', shows the top hat washer still in contact with the enrichment arm, if the verboten screw is not hitting it's stop under these conditions then your full throttle mixture may be too rich. In the last pic, the height of the cone looks as it should be at 30C/86F... dunno what temp you were actually at when that pic was taken. The WUR calibration procedure is in this article:
  12. No, it's only visible from under the car...the exhaust isn't in the way so much, but the prop and donut are... It could be either the two 8mm head(?) Allen bolts are loose or the rubber-centred brackets the bolts secure have turned to mush (replace). The other thing to replace are the two 'top hat' nylon washers at the bottom of the shift lever.
  13. I don't think that's adjustable...at least not on the majority of tii, it should just be tight against the collar below. On early cars where there's a locknut on that collar, you could (in principle) unscrew it a few turns and lock it with the nut. You can adjust the height the cone sits on the threaded rod.. that's part of the setup of the WUR to set the height of that cone on the road at a specific temperature.... Maybe that's been altered?? When cold, is the "cone" part low down inside the collar?? That's maximum "fast idle" air flow... If the cone sits higher when cold then maybe the cone is set too high on the threaded rod? Or your WUR is mechanically jammed?
  14. The LED displays were made at our factory here in Penang, Malaysia starting 1972... watches & calculators were big business. First automotive application for us was the VW golf MK1 dashboard from ~'77. Still making automotive LEDs today (mostly headlamps).
  15. That's what most crankcase breathers do: they separate the oil and send it back into the engine... So yours just has a manual step added instead of gravity doing the job.
  16. Could be exactly that @JsnPpp is our zeitschalter expert (the electronic gizmo that supplies the 12V you measured. Maybe time for a new one?
  17. With the launch of it's BMW Classic Workshop service here in Malaysia, I got to show my '02turbo in Kuala Lumpur last weekend. They had invited a few classics to grace the showroom as part of this launch... E20, E23, E30, E31, E34, E39. They made a special effort to recognise the 50th anniversary of the launch of the turbo. BMW has launched a worldwide network of classic workshops offering service & repair for the older vehicles, older than 20 years. They are contacting their retired staff to act as consultants to train-up a new generation for 'pre-OBD' servicing (using ears instead of computer to find out what's wrong). Aaron, on left who works for one of Malaysia's BMW distributors and my wife & I on right at the Ara Damansara showroom. Some friends took some nice pics of my car as it sat in a special 1970s corner of the showroom. And also here on Instagram: DF Car Photography 🇲🇾 (@df_onlycars) • Instagram photos and videos WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM 38 likes, 6 comments - df_onlycars on December 1, 2023: "This BMW 2002 Turbo is easily one of the coolest &... So it was an uneventful drive down (350km), on the way back it was heavy rain and traffic most of the way, but the turbo rolled along smoothly.
  18. ....The only way this might happen would be if the crankcase breather connection on the cam cover was connected to the plenum instead of the air cleaner.... Seems unlikely.
  19. To avoid cold turkey we need these around the house: Fuel Scented Candles WWW.BILLINGTONFARMS.COM Create an awe-inspiring ambience with our carefully crafted fuel scented candles.
  20. The only thing that's back there is the water pipe that runs along the block to the heater pipe. Part 17 on lower right here ...is there any chance bolt 19 has come adrift allowing the pipe to move??
  21. A bit like the '80s Group 5 E21s had... This could be a great project, a new back cover for the Kugel with a Stepper Motor driving the the "cone twisting" mechanism in the back of the pump (instead of the speed-related magnetic drive). Then some custom firmware on a speeduino board to drive the stepper via speeduino's GPIO channels (https://speeduino.com/home/) With that control a normal Kugel pump could be programmed for different cams/induction and even turbocharging....
  22. Yes, that will keep the fan on until the thermoswitch opens ..but on a hot engine that may take some time. Or if the overide switch is on, then the fan runs indefinitely....may flatten your battery as the fan likely draws a few 10s of amps. That's probably the fan windmilling enough to generate some volts to light the lamp. It might be better to consider a relay with a built-in timer, to keep the fan running for 5mins after the ignition goes off, rather than rely on the thermoswitch (which might stay closed for 30mins+ after a drive??). https://www.ebay.com/itm/373519221666 Something like this should plug into the above circuit and provide 5 or 10 mins fan time provided either the thermoswitch or overide switch are on.
  23. +1 just don't push the seal so deep into the housing.. Otherwise, can you get a speedi-sleeve that size? https://www.skf.com/uk/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve
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