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About Parksis_52

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  1. I'm in the middle of completing the standard Getrag 245, 5 speed transmission upgrade and have run into an issue that I wasn't able to find previously discussed on this forum. I'm hoping someone might have some direction for me moving forward, or some experience with this issue themselves and a possible solution. The problem I have encountered is this. I own an early model 1969 2002, manufactured in June of 1968. I have swapped out my 4 speed transmission and currently have the 5 speed Getrag 245 installed. I knew I would need a different driveshaft, and have checked locally (Edmonton, Canada) with no luck at finding anyone that can make me something. I contacted Blunt Tech and provided them with the measurements to have one made up, but Steve at Blunt indicated the makers of his driveshaft's don't have the blue prints to make something equipped with a long nose differential. I also spoke with Ireland Engineering but haven't heard anything back from them, they seemed slightly put off by the idea of making something with a long nose as well. I did some more research and discovered if I swapped the rear subframe I could install a short nose differential, but where my concern lies is the measurements for the center support bearing on the early cars with long nose differentials seems to be significantly different than the later short nose models. I don't really want to do all this to later find out I can't have a driveshaft made given the location of the center support bearing. Again I'm hoping someone might have some experience with the 5 speed transmission swap involving an early model 2002 with long nose differential. If they might be able to direct me to a place which made them a driveshaft, discuss what their experience was swapping the rear subframe, or anything else that might be relevant it would be very much appreciated. I'm leaning a bit more towards the subframe swap as well given the fact if the current long nose differential bites the bullet I'll have a tough time making repairs or finding a replacement anyway. Thanks again, Ryan
  2. 1969, 2002. I know this thread has been beaten to death already, but in doing a substantial search I couldn’t come up with a clear solution to my current problem. Any input is much appreciated. In doing a suspension clean up and overhaul I opted to go with the 50401 H&R Springs suggested on this forum, along with Bilstein 34-000236 front struts. It seems like a very common, fool proof upgrade. The issue I’m having is this. There is an amount of slack in the spring, allowing it to move and twist on the plate when there is no weight on it. I’ve read in some posts that this is a common problem with IE front suspension components, but I couldn’t find anything to suggest this happens with H&R. In fact, quite the opposite has been said here about H&R. In my opinion this shouldn’t be happening at all, components should be firm and secure. What I was able to read indicated shorter front strut cartridges are available, but with the set up I’ve obtained so often recommended on this site, I’m wondering if that’s even necessary? Admittedly I did clean up and use a second hand set of strut towers, with the same part number stamped as the ones I took out. I don’t believe they are bent or manipulated in any way, the cartridge appears firm and secure in the tower, and the gland nut was tightened about halfway down the treads with minimal effort. I guess in all this, I’m asking and wondering what my options from here are, or if anyone with more substantial experience than me can point out anything I might be missing? This is my first attempt at this, and for something that should have been so straight forward, it’s been anything but...
  3. Sounds good, thanks guys. I'll get something ordered up. The help is always much appreciated.
  4. Thanks Mark, you've been a big help on more than one occasion, and yeah it's running dual Webers. That piece you have pictured, is that from a 320i and something I can order up? If so I'll probably do that, and then clean up the brass just to have on standby...
  5. Does anyone have an idea of what this is (pictured below) if it has a proper technical name, and if it's available as a replacement part? I'm in the process of cleaning up the cooling system and heater hoses and came across this, attaching a hose from the water pump to a heater core hose. I stopped by the local BMW dealer yesterday to see if I could find a replacement but they looked at me like I was from space. I can't tell if it's a factory part, or just a piece of plumbing by the design of the old owner. I could probably clean it up and make it work again but I figure while I have it apart... As always, thanks in advance.
  6. Parksis_52


  7. Awesome, thanks for the help and clarification. I'll get to tinkering and will make something work. Thanks again!
  8. Mine is a 69 2002 imported from the factory to Canada, with the individual wires that attach to the switch. Any idea if the newer switch will work with the older wires, or am I outta luck? How did you end up turning it into an on/off switch exactly? I'd be entirely content with that if I could get it to work that way... When we tried to install the new switch we couldn't get the headlights to work, which wasn't one of the initial issues.
  9. My gauge cluster lights weren't working, so after switching the bulbs with no luck I started looking at the headlight switch as the potential culprit. Sure enough the coil for the rheostat inside the switch was hanging lose. I ordered a new switch from Rogers Tii, and when I finally got around to installing it I noticed it was slightly different than the switch I took out of the dash. I contacted Rogers and he asked that I send him a few pictures. I did, and his only reply was that one of the switches was European. I've asked him for clarification a few times as to which switch is European, and which is North American but haven't got any reply. Anyway, my point of this thread isn't to slag his business/poor service, but rather I'm just looking to see if anyone can help me identify the switch I was sent? Also, I'm wondering if anyone has ever installed one of these? My buddy and I tried to install it using a multimeter and some trial and error, but couldn't get it set up right. I'm thinking I have some other wiring gremlins to sort out too, but want to see if this new switch is even going to work first. The vertical switch (first picture) is the one I removed, the horizontal one (second picture) is the one I was sent. Thanks in advance.
  10. Thanks very much for the feedback. I had a look and attached some photos to document how the 4 spoke and 3 spoke steering wheels are different. I'm still trying to make sense of where plungers, rings and wires attach properly...
  11. I bought a '69 02 a few years ago and have sorted out most of the major operating issues it had when I first bought it. While the car is parked for the cold Canadian winter, I have decided to plug away and clean up some of the more minor irritants I noted while driving it last summer. I was able to find a used 320i 3 spoke sport steering wheel online locally, and recently began removal of the old steering wheel, and install of the upgrade. Before starting I printed off the general install article from Bay area 02 and found it mostly helpful. I've run into a road block however, because the previous owner didn't have a horn attached to whatever generic steering wheel he had installed. The horn consisted of 2 loose wires attached to a button you'd depress with your thumb to activate if needed. The button was/is dangling just below the steering column. Where I run into the issue is I don't have the contact pin that would have been found originally on the 02. I do though have the brass ring that was just left neglected on the column by the last owner. What I'm wondering is, would it be easier to pick up another contact pin, or grab a horn contact adaptor like the one discussed in other postings? I guess it depends on how the horn is wired currently, but I thought I'd ask if anyone had some suggestions before I dig too deep. Thanks in advance...
  12. I have a '69 02, and over the summer began to notice some issues while shifting, to the point where specific gears wouldn't even engage. I ended up swapping the clutch slave and master cylinders. As a side note, for anyone with only marginal mechanical experience, this is a pretty straight forward DIY repair/replacement that you could easily tackle in relatively short order. While I had the cylinders out I decided to replace the rest of the components like the hose, and hard line that runs from the reservoir to the master cylinder. It's a reservoir independent from the brake master reservoir. The car shifts well now, however I've noticed a substantial leak where the hard line meets the master cylinder grommet. I have the standard FTE clutch master cylinder, and used 1/4' tubing to form the line. Has anyone else had any experience with ensuring a better seal? I haven't flared the end at all, and want to avoid too much trial and error for fear of ruining the grommet all together. Any suggestions on how to get a better seal would be much appreciated, thanks.
  13. Awesome, thanks for the feedback. It's a huge help, I appreciate the response!
  14. I feel a bit silly for asking this, but what switch or stalk do you use to activate the window washer fluid? I have a 1969 02 that I bought a few years ago, and in that time I've never been able to engage the washer fluid. The wipers work fine on both the low and high setting, but for the life of me I can't figure out what will give the window a squirt of fluid when it gets dusty. My guess is the motor is in need of either a good cleaning or replacement, but I want to ensure I'm engaging it correctly first to help with the trouble shooting. Thanks in advance, sorry I know this is remedial...
  15. Thanks, I appreciate the above info. I'll see which parts I can source most easily and get it finished.
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