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About DanVT

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  1. It would seem to me that there are plenty of metal cores in our garages. I wonder if they considered reusing the original frames. I can vouch for four. Dan
  2. Got it! Is that because the paint will “wear” and over time the torque on the lug nuts will diminish? Dan
  3. Thanks guys. I have the entire rear subframe off the car and in pieces; main cross piece already powder-coated satin black, taking the trailing arm and backing plates in today. Zambo, if you powder-coated the backing plates, did that cause any issues with the brake adjusters? Dan
  4. I haven’t found this in the archives.... What is the original color for the front and rear hubs? And the rear brake drums? This is for a January ‘73 production. thanks, Dan
  5. FWIW, my ‘76 produced in Sept 1975 does not have pockets. Dan
  6. It looks like you used new black sleeves. What was your source? And diameters? Did you have cracked sleeves in the cold start harness? I’m starting to refurbish my 73tii’s harnesses. Dan
  7. I had this same issue a few years ago. WD and others & heat didn’t work. Smacked it with a hammer and hammer on the wrench, still nothing. So I cleaned both sides of the plate with carb cleaner and wire brush, heated the plate, but not the bolt too much. Put an ice cube on the bolt for a few minutes, tapped the bolt a few times. Let everything cool down then coated both sides with anti-seize. Went away for a few days. Came back, put a wrench on the bolt and gave it good whack with a hammer and presto, it turned. Dan
  8. On my ‘76, the 47.2 is on the driver’s side. The 40.8 is the passenger side. Dan
  9. Do you mean around the door opening? Dan
  10. Pull all the plugs and test the spark by grounding the plug threads to the valve cover or something as a helper turns the motor over (and don’t hang onto the plug wire). Since you have underground parking, little sunlight, you should see a good spark. I had this happen to me with a ‘76 a few years ago. Car sat for a few months in a dry 40+degree garage. Plugs were clean, got none or very weak spark on all 4. Changed plugs, fired right up. Dan
  11. I had one of those bras with the two air deflectors on the top on an ‘84 3-series. They still buffetted ... and the paint too. Took it off after a couple months. Don’t bother with this type. Dan
  12. I sent a request to info.group archive for information on the ink and font used on the door VIN sticker. Andreas Hartz responded he could not find any info about any ink being used to stamp the VIN nor info on a font and he seems to infer the metal stamped VINs. I followed up with a more specific question about the USA-delivered cars prior to 1974 having a sticker on the driver’s door with inked numbers and that 1974 and later having punched dots for the numbers. He had no information about any of these stickers.....thought maybe BMW North America might have some information. Is it possible that these stickers were put on by Hoffman and inked or stamped accordingly? Dan
  13. Anyone have an inked VIN with an 8, 9, or 0? A clearer 6 would help too. I’m trying to figure out the font. Geometric 706 is close.
  14. Anyone have an inked VIN with an 8, 9, or 0? A clearer 6 would help too. I’m trying to figure out the font. Geometric 706 is close.
  15. Can someone (Mike, Jim) with inked numbers measure the height and width of the numbers. The stamped VIN numbers measure 4mm high and 3mm wide. Wondering if they’re the same, and therefore the font. I need to get a new sticker too. Dan

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