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    BMW, Porsche.

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  1. Hi Dave - I'm in need of a new brake line for my 02 - the one that goes the length of the body of the car on the drivers side (visible under the driver's door) as it has corroded and now is leaking and I have no brake pressure. Would it be possible to order this line pre-bent? I see the kit on the site and I think it might be worth replacing all of them, but it doesn't look like it includes that one... I can send you an email if you'd like to discuss that way too. Thanks!
  2. Check the jets and see if they’re close to the setups on this thread to make sure it’s at least been tinkered with for M10 or a 4 cyl. There are some guys running stock M10s with the 38/38 but it’s very hard to get a smooth idle because it’s pushing a lot of air for a stock motor. My dads car has one on a stock bottom end w a cam and it has a really unsteady and high idle. My car has a fully built motor and I got it to idle well. Some friends of mine have had success getting it to idle well but you have to really richen up the mix. No two engines are the same, so you should expect to do some adjustments. Luckily, they’re not difficult to make if you have a screwdriver around. If you want a 32/36 Weber (the most common upgrade for a stock 02), I’ve got one that I’d sell to you for $100 or something. Will go on the stock manifold and should be easier on the stock motor. Could use some cleaning but it delivered fuel to my engine for 10000+ miles under my ownership and many more before I had the car.
  3. Did a little rejetting this morning, then took the car for a drive. Mains: 140 150 Airs: 180 190 Idles: 55 Emulsion: F66 Needle: 250 Car does much better in the top end (above 4000 RPM) than with the 140s and 180s. Used to definitely feel like it was running out of breath up there and now it pulls all the way through the range. Very happy with the results.
  4. Hi everyone! Hate to revive this thread (again) but oh well. Going to do some tuning on the 02 this week and was wondering if anyone had any tips for swapping jets out. Should I take the carb off the car and swap them out that way, or is it easier (as it seems in my head) to change them while the carb is on the car? Thanks!
  5. mattio523


  6. How cheap could the a Volvo based front BBK be for an FAQ member? ST 22mm/19mm swaybars? Thanks!
  7. yeah - i think so too - i'd like to know where to get one as a temporary fix for my cut rear springs.
  8. Hi - What is that white piece holding your rear spring in place while the car is up? I have issues with my springs coming off (very rarely, however still an issue) when lowering the car back to the ground from a lift or jacks, and that looks like it could be the solution to the problem. Car looks awesome by the way. GLWS
  9. Hi Matt,


    I'm interested in your con rods. How much is shipping to 94550? I'll take cheap, slow mail delivery :)




  10. My engine was just put in the car and seemed to be running well when the car wasn't moving when the timing was being set, but according to the shop they took it out and it was bogging and felt like it had no power. (Fresh rebuilt engine, shouldn't have no power). My set up is a 90mm 10.5:1 compression pistons, 292 cam, E21 head, shorty header. The carb is a 38/38 with the following specs: Mains: 140 Airs: 180 Idles: 55 Emulsion: F66 Needle: 250 Any ideas as to what might be happening? Could it have to do with the carb setup? I thought it would run close to well with that setup and not need a ton of adjustment. I'm hoping that the problem will solve itself with some fresh gas - the gas in the tank is kinda old. Thanks UPDATE: it was a bad ignitor - don't forget to run resistors everyone!
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