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TurkisM2002

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Everything posted by TurkisM2002

  1. 1973 BMW 2002 with E30 M20 Swap Project - Clean Title I am selling my 1973 BMW 2002 project car due to a complete lack of time to finish the project. This 73 2002 came to me from California with a blown M10 motor so I decided to swap in an M20 from a 1988 BMW 325i. The body of the car has been modified to take the M20 motor, E21 Getrag 245 3-piece transmission mated to a modified 2002 driveshaft connected to an E21 LSD for a 3.91 ratio. Original color was turkis blue. The engine fires and runs strong. Other than the drivetrain and suspension, the car is completely stripped of the interior. Everything mechanical on the car has been R&R’d. Pictures can be found here: https://goo.gl/photos/wYff2jMRxjYhk9PE7 Here’s the build sheet: BMW M20b25 swap into 1973 BMW 2002 with 5 Speed Manual Transmission VW Scirocco radiator, electric fan, and Earls oil cooler with custom cooler lines New high performance water pump and thermostat Hella horns (these are awesome) Bosch Motronic 1.1 ECU All new spark (spark plugs, cap and rotor) and fuel components (rail, injectors, fuel lines) Completely renewed front and rear suspension All new control arms, steering arms front and rear All new bushings front and rear Rebuilt steering box Bilstein sport springs and shocks for a slightly lower stance Ireland Engineering sway bars from and rear Renewed E21 Rear LSD 3.91 Rebuilt E21 Getrag 245 5 speed transmission with Ireland Engineering short shifter Lightened flywheel Shortened 2002 driveshaft Upgraded E28 525i master cylinder Rebuilt brake booster New brake lines Renewed pedal box - new springs and washers Custom exhaust with Magnaflow muffler Renewed heater box All new hoses and clamps everywhere 13” bottle cap wheels Shortened e-brake handle with new cables Stock brakes Euro corner lights Extra parts included with sale Original M10 motor Original 4 speed transmission Original sway bars Top End Racing rear strut brace plus battery holder Brand new Momo steering wheel in box E21 Recaro Seats (the real deal) New antenna in box Extra doors Euro bumpers - I do not have the shorter brackets however. These can be ordered from BMW. Turbo front air dam and fender flares I am not looking to trade. Please contact me with any questions specific to the car. Thanks
  2. Bump on this. I haven't been able to troubleshoot why exactly the needle is all over the map. Thoughts? Thanks
  3. So I ended up grabbing the adapter from Ireland and got it wired up per the directions but I'm having an issue with the tach needle jumping around all over the place at idle. See video below. Assuming the adapter is not bad, I must not be pulling the tach signal properly. Directions only say to take the signal from the low tension side of the coil, so I ran a wire from the negative post (correct?) of the coil to the input of the adapter, which is what the motronic uses as an input for timing I believe. +12v for the adapter is coming from a switched source. Grounds are clean. TIA
  4. Thanks everyone for the options here. Comparing these two, do either of them support a signal from the ECU? Just looking at wiring this from inside the cabin, otherwise I can run another wire off the coil. Thanks
  5. Ack, I think I just figured it out - the tach signal from the ECU just isn't compatible with the 2002 tach.
  6. Hi everyone, looking for some guidance on troubleshooting the tach in my 73 2002. I've done the M20 swap - car runs - fuel, water temp, and speedo all work except the tach. I am getting voltage from the Motronic ECU. Voltage does drop when I rev the engine, however the tach need never moves. I can't confirm if the tach worked when I got the car since it was a POS when it arrived. Any help appreciated. Thanks
  7. Is this of any major concern? Im replacing the pump and thermostat.
  8. I still suspect I have a head gasket leak. Is it worth pulling the head? Never replaced a head gasket before. Parts are cheap. I did buy a can of that bars leak stop but I’m really hesitant
  9. Yes I second this as well. Thank you all for the help. Really helped me focus and double and triple check everything. I have little faith I’m out of the woods but right now feel well enough to continue on. Probably change out the timing belt next since I doubt that has been done.
  10. The smoke is far less than what's in the video. I revved it for a while and let it run for about 15-20 minutes before it died and now can't restart. I think its out of gas since I only put so little in there. Have an exhaust leak near the manifold. I think the car ran out of gas since I only put a little bit in. However my gas gauge was reading 1/4 full. First video shows the reduction in smoke (its even less now) and the smoother idle. Second video is me revving the motor.
  11. That made a huge difference. After fixing the afm wire at the DME she idles so much better. Also the smoke is significantly less but still prevalent. Can’t tell if it’s gray or blue gray. I’ll post a vid shortly.
  12. Good to know in the purge valve. well for whatever reason the afm reference wire was spliced into the main relay power. The soldering was pretty bad. Broke apart as soon as I touched it. I’d like to fix the bad pin properly but for now I reconnected the afm wire by resoldering that joint. It seems ok but I question how well it will hold up. Not sure why someone would connect this AFM wire to 12v. I’ll test the AFM tomorrow and fire her up to see if there is any change.
  13. yes digikey is great. They have a million products it seems. I’m sure the question has been answered before.
  14. So I took some advice here and started testing my AFM. First I went testing the plug for continuity back to the dme and noticed I wasn’t getting continuity on the reference signal circuit from the afm to the DME pin 12. Have a look at the attached picture. Never mind the blue red wire that wasn’t me promise. It’s the chunk of solder on the back of one of the pins which happens to be pin 12. Should stick out in the picture. I have to find the wire and resolder for now then finish testing the afm. Do they sell the individual pins?
  15. Just remembered I had to cap the evap purge valve port since I didn't have the rest of the system and was told this was OK to do, however the connector is hanging loose. It's not shorted or anything.
  16. So this rough idle when cold could it be attributable to the cold start running rich or possibly leaking head gasket? I have spark and I have fuel for each cylinder.
  17. So right now I only have distilled water in the engine - since really at this point I was mocking up the cooling system and didn't want to waste coolant until I knew everything was tight. However, I didn't drain the block, so there is I'm sure some old coolant in there. I noticed the milky oil in the compression test hose when I did a wet compression test in one of the cylinders. The oil leak I have coming out the back of the oil pan looks like clean oil. No milk.
  18. I read that post about the Bar's leaks ... seems almost like a religious debate putting that stuff in the motor Question - if I do put it in, is it possible to get that gunk out if I replaced the head gasket anyway?
  19. Yes it was... I'll try that again. I had spark on each cylinder before I swapped the plugs.
  20. How long should I hold it open? I held it steady for a good 15 seconds (not in the video), which seemed like an eternity. Oh the HOA is going to love this. Maybe I'll do it after dark.... After taking this last video, I tapped the gas pedal and the car just died which is a first, but it was a cold start. I did perform another vac test and I did find a very small leak with the ICV valve that I fixed .No change of course. Another thing I noticed is that I have a significant oil leak coming out of the back of the oil pan. It's not a weep it's a stream. JHC.
  21. I can. It certainly looks white to me. I had to top off the coolant since it was pretty low. Coolant is definitely in the oil.
  22. Well. I can’t tell a difference with the new plugs and injectors. She fires right up and smokes. I’ll do another vac test just to be sure.
  23. I did replace the rotor, but I have not run the car with all the new stuff yet. The low comp #s and milky oil and white steam have me wondering how to move forward. I have to ask if there is a point to addressing the rough idle issue given the other issues with comp and white smoke? Let me rephrase that and ask what the priority should be? No can't do an in-motion italian tune up. I've done one stationary in the garage a handful of times, which has me wondering if that's how the spark plugs got so black. It sounds good when the throttle is open but the exhaust is fairly loud so hard to tell. Is there any harm in firing up the car with the new plugs and injectors at this point given all the other conditions? I don't know about the AFM being plumb. It's positioned that way since I don't have any clearance to get it plumb. I swapped in an E12 or E28 (can't remember...) master cylinder with a top mount brake fluid reservoir so the AFM had to be cocked a little. I can always go back to the remove reservoir. I'll have a look at those videos thanks for the links. Not sure I have the proper tools to measure how well the car is running. Thanks
  24. No resistor. Ohm reading is to spec in the Bentley. Hmm. im sure I’m battling a couple different issues here between the idle and the low compression. When I ran the wet comp test there was milky oil in the compression tester hose.
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