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2002Rocks

Solex
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Everything posted by 2002Rocks

  1. 2002Rocks

    2002Rocks

  2. You need to pull the trim off that goes around the panels. You then need to pull up on the panels and they will snap away. it's kind of a pain to get back there and get in the right position to pull straight up, but it can be done. In hindsight I wish I would have done it with the seats still in. It would have been more comfortable that way Good Luck!
  3. I haven't had much to update for awhile, so I thought I would post one. After getting heat in my detached garage, I was finally able to get the pedal box, steering box and brake parts all out. I had been patiently waiting for floor pans and a trunk pan to come from Colorado, but after 3 months I realized they were never coming and have finally asked for my money back and ordered parts from Germany. If there is one thing I have learned through this process, it is that if you don't have the parts in a few weeks, you wont have them in a few months either As soon as the body parts get here, she is ready to be delivered to the welder and body man. I hope that process goes smoother than the previous one.
  4. Spent more time today stripping the 02. About the only things left are the headlights. Getting closer to the body work.

    1. Cyclone101

      Cyclone101

      Stripping... a lot less fun than it sounds :)

  5. In my last post I indicated that the motor would be pulled "in the next few weeks". If you are anything like me (Read: Busy Dad) then then you know when you make statements like that, then life happens. Finally we were able to get together and make this happen.We decided to pull the motor and the transmission as one unit. While I had thought that I had everything disconnected, there were still a few things that I had to take care of quickly while the others were busy doing the hard work. Remember not to forget these things: Speedometer cable and the shifter. Also, we did end up removing the distributor at the 11th hour. There just wasn't quite enough room for it to clear. The motor mounts were a pain. We ended up removing them completely before we could get the whole thing lose. After that it was smooth sailing. The tie rod makes an excellent resting point for the transmission if you get to a holding point. So now that the motor is out and I can start tearing it down, a few questions remain: Will I go to a 2 carb set-up or stick with a single? Will I try to find a 5 speed transmission and ditch the current 4-speed? As always, comments are welcome
  6. In the next week or so I will be pulling the engine from "Fernanda". You might be wondering how in the world I came up with that name? The name means adventurous, bold journey. I could not have picked a better definition for what I am in the middle of Anyway, I spent this past weekend prepping the motor for removal. That means all the hoses and lines were disconnected and labeled. I also pulled the radiator and the alternator. I took lots of pictures to document this process. I also followed the Haynes manual step by step during this process. This is a must for anyone working on these cars. Just a fair warning that the pictures are old and the printing isn't very well done because of the age of the photo files. However, it does give good reference points. This gives me two different types of documentation; pictures and labeling as well as the manual. I am going to attempt to pull both motor and the transmission together. I have been told that I need to be able to angle the motor at a pretty good degree in order to be able to pull them both and that the car's front end will need to be sitting up pretty high. You can bet that I will be combing the blogs and entries on this site for further tips. Wish me luck!
  7. As I have some time in my evenings, which is growing more difficult since school started, I have started to remove body parts. The trunk and hood are off. The left fender is off because it has a rust spot deep enough that it will be better to replace than to repair. If you happened to have one of these you are willing to part with, please hit me up. The hood removal is really a two person job. I am not sure there is a right way to take it off, so I started with the front mounts. Once those were lose, we closed the hood and removed the hinge pieces. My son was there in the front holding the hood in place while I removed the bolts.The bumper needs to be partially taken off to remove the fender, as does the hood. The fender was easier than I thought it was going to be, which makes me think it has been removed before. Don't forget the trim pieces! I had the fender most of the way off before I remembered the bottom trim piece that goes along along the rocker panels. Oops! I was able to get all the trim removed without destroying anything. Just remember to use a rubber scraper to remove this so you don't ruin the trim pieces or your paint (if you care about such things). So now my garage is filling up fast and I am running out of room. I have a storage shed that will house the body parts until I am ready for them again. The next step is to get the motor ready to be pulled
  8. I enjoyed reading this. I am just starting on my project and look forward to gaining knowledge from you and others on this site.
  9. I have recently started on a journey myself. It looks as if you have a good base to start with. Good Luck! and enjoy the ride.
  10. As promised, here is a pic after it has been cleaned up some. I have a blog on this site where I am detailing the steps of my rebuild as well, if anyone is interested. Again, feedback is always welcome. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/34-2002rocks-blog/
  11. 2002Rocks

    Black Tape

    This weekend I had a little extra time for my project. After my pal Sam and I put together a plan for the welding and paint, I decided I was going to start taking everything apart, preparing the car for the welding, body and paint work. I spent a little more time in the back scraping off the sound deadening material from the firewall and shock towers. While the towers are not desirable, there is still quite a bit of base metal there to work with. After doing this for a few hours, I went to the trunk where my son and I removed the gas tank. This was harder than it sounds. The screws holding the gas tank to the trunk pan were rusted up and were a little hard to break loose. They are attached with a welded nut (for lack of the better word). I didn't remember to use the Liquid Wrench until after breaking the first nut away from the body. Once that happens, have fun getting a pair of pliers in there between the bottom of the gas tank and the rear tire to hold the nut into place (speaking from experience). After that the tail and marker lights came out, as well as the trunk lid. Part of my day also went to ensuring all of my parts were organized. Labeled baggies with all the screws, bolts and connectors are sitting in order on the work table. My work table is 8' x 4' and was built specifically for this project; keeping in mind that I would need a large work area to lay parts out. As I was taking the tail lights out, I remembered back when I was a kid installing stereo systems. Black tape was a real no no. I always wanted to do it right using wire connectors. Apparently the person who owned this car previously had never heard of those. I discovered quite a bit of black tape between the tail lights and rear markers. It also reminded me to take my time and make sure this project is done right, rather than just throwing it together with black tape.
  12. I appreciate the feedback. I had people from two different shops inspect and they both agree that there is enough base there to fix the problem. However, based on comments here, I am going to clean all the paint, sealant and take everything down to bare metal. Once that is complete, then I will will make a decision. I certainly want a clean look and not a hack job. I will post some more pictures of this once it is done for some more feedback. Thank you to everyone for the help! Chad
  13. Hello everyone! I am sure this has been discussed but I am at a point on the shock towers where i don't know whether to repair or replace. I have had a restoration shop tell me that they can repair them, but as you can see from the pictures here and on my blog, it is a lot of rust and goes most of the way around. Amazingly enough, the car rode really good before I started tearing it apart. I can't believe what I got myself into, but I am still committed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  14. TR I knew there was rust on the trunkside of the shock towers when I bought the car, and I also knew there was some rust in the floorboards. I just didn't realize there was this much rust. i did not have the car up in the air before I ripped everything apart. The outside looked pretty clean, the motor ran well and everything worked. it was a rookie mistake. In my excitement to find a "local" car here in the rural MO, I ended up paying too much for it. I did take it to a restoration shop after getting a closer look and was told that it would be fixable and that they had seen a lot worse (think vintage Mustangs and Camaros). Now I am committed. I'll do all the prep work myself and let the experts do the welding. I have ordered the floor pans and they will shape the shock towers when they do the rest. To answer your Real question: No way would I have bought it if I would have known it had that much rust. lol. It's going to be an expensive lesson to learn. Any advice is appreciated.
  15. 2002Rocks

    What Lies Beneath

    It doesn't look quite as bad as mine. My heart goes out to you. I have a big project ahead myself as we'll.
  16. 2002Rocks

    Intro

    Great ride! Looks like your project started off much better than mine, without rust everywhere. I hope mine looks as good as yours when I am done.
  17. I have been told that even a professional will find things about an old car that will blow his mind. I consider myself a rookie, and what I found today really blew my mind. Do you remember watching the Flintstones? Remember how Fred and Barney used to run down the road with their feet propelling the car? Ladies and Gentleman, welcome to the Flintstones. Before we get to that, lets talk about removing carpet and sound deadening material. Before I removed the front carpet, I spent some time getting the sound deadening material out of the back. I read a couple of entries and watched a few YouTube videos about dry ice and electronic freeze spray. In the end, a torch and scrapper worked best for me. It's always better as a two man job. My son and I traded scrapping and torch duties. As you can see in the pics, the rear floor is pretty clean, but of course the shock towers are in desperate need of repair. I knew it was going to be bad, but not that bad. On to the front! Since I am changing interior colors, the carpet came out easier than if I was going to reuse. Kick panels come off, seat belts come out, console and shift boot and knob. One of the good things about older cars is that everything in the interior was held together by screws. No clips to worry about breaking when you are pulling stuff out. Also something I learned, when dealing with rust, no shop vac is too big. After the carpet was out, the shock kind of set in. As you can see, the only thing keeping the drivers feet from going to the ground was the frame rail, which is still solid (thank goodness). There was lots of rust up front, with the deadening material the only thing keeping the elements out. How can a car that looks so good on the outside be such a rust bucket? If anything, I have learned what to look for in future projects. Take your time and inspect the crucial areas, no matter how low the sale price on the car is. Otherwise you might be doing a Fred Flintstone as he cruises down the highway. That might not end as well for you as it did for Fred.
  18. So, after a fellow member reached out to me about the potential size and cost of my project, I decided to see if it was really meant to be. If the the car sells, it's not meant to be. If it doesn't sell, then it's time to plunge onward. I am here and it is time to plunge onward. This morning I started pulling out the interior. The seats came out and everything underneath the rear seat was vacuumed. A few tips on pulling out the rear seat. The bottom seat does have a single bolt towards the middle that holds it the body. This must come out. After that, you can pull up on the seat and it comes right out. The top seat is attached by two separate metal screws. After 37 years, it may take some doing to get the screws to come out. WD40 and some patience work really good. Once those screws are out you pull from the top and wiggle the top seat upward. Once it comes up a few inches, you can then pull forward and pull the bottom seat out. Once the seats are out, and everything is vacuumed up, it is time to inspect......
  19. Up for sale is a 1976 BMW 2002 with Verona Red paint and tan interior. Car runs great and engine doesn't leak any oil. Car has 78,255 miles and as far as I know, that is all original. Odometer does work. Car comes equipped with a 4-speed manual transmission. I will do my best to list and any issues that the car has. I bought this car to restore or resto-mod. I have decided to head another direction and this would be a great project for someone who loves these cars. It has all the right ingredients for a well done restoration or resto-mod. The Good: Body is straight, paint is good (with some bubbling around right rear quarter and trunk lid). Paint is original color, but it does look like it has been re sprayed at some point. Engine runs strong. Numbers matching. Starts first time every time. This car features the Solex 2bb carb. Carb seems like it is tuned for cruising rather than speed. I have not gotten far enough with it to change this. Transmission shifts good, but will need to some work done in the future as the syncros are starting to wear. In other words, you cant speed shift but it does shift fine for driving. All lights, switches and indicators work, with the exception of the speedometer (needs a new cable). Even the fasten seatbelt sign lights up when the car starts. Wipers and washer both work at all speeds. Wheels are good shape and tires have good tread on them. Trim and bumpers are good. Interior is in great shape for it's age. No tears in the seats. Dash has two cracks in it (typical for this model). Carpet is in good shape. Vin is 2740665 The Bad: (Remember this car is 36 years old) Rust is present in a some areas. The front floor pans will need to be replaced and there will need to be some work done to the rear shock towers. Car rides good and shock supports are not affected at this time. Frame rails are GOOD. Pillars are GOOD. Rear floor pans are GOOD. Engine bay is GOOD. Front towers have surface rust. I added a few pictures of the front floor-pan Steering has some play (nothing scary). The steering box will need to be adjusted to take the slop out. I drive it to work with no issues. Engine burns a little oil, but runs good. This is typical for the original motor. This car just needs a restoration or a little TLC to make a great daily driver. I just put brand new roundels on it (not the newer, cheaper ones, but the original painted style). Car rides smooth, and doesn't rattle going over bumps. These things are getting harder to come by that aren't in a rusted heap. Year: 1976 Make: BMW Model: 2002 Body and Interior: Outer body is great, interior is great, rear shock towers and front floor pans need some work Engine and Drivetrain: Runs great Suspension, Brakes: Suspension and breaks work great.
  20. When I bought the car, the wiper motors were working intermittently. By the 3rd day of ownership, they quit working all together. I could hear the motor attempting to turn, and the fuse and electrical connections were fine. After some research I found a how to piece on how to attempt greasing and oiling the wiper motor before buying a new one. This link below from Tom's BMW 2002 Repair details step by step on how to pull the motor, grease the bearing and oil the gear. It's a pretty easy process, but be careful to pull the motor straight out when taking the motor apart. See the link below. Pay special attention that your wipers are parked correctly before pulling them off the spindles. This step by step worked great and the wipers are working fine now. Please note that I do not have pictures of my car in this process as I am documenting this from the past to present. The next project I will document (alternator issues) will have pictures with step by step. http://laudeman.com/bmw_wiper.html
  21. As you probably know, the older type BMW badges are painted and unsealed, which means that many years of sun damage can make the blue roundels disappear. I just couldn't stand it and ordered two new ones right away right after I brought home my new project. They are a bit pricier than the newer badges, but compliment the older style of the car very well. The process to remove the badges is as easy as using a rubber shim to pry the badges away from the trunk or hood metal. Be sure to place a towel down as not to scratch any of the paint. The badges should come out with no problem (there is even a YouTube video on this). The trick is to get the grommets out without disintegrating them and leaving pieces in the hole. The trunk ones were easy, the hood ones? Not so much . Once they are out, the install is easy, as the grommets go right in and the badges snap into place with a push. Be sure to order two sets of grommets. Also note that the rear roundel is different than the front on a 2002. Cost of grommets and roundels = $57.33
  22. Steve, thank you for your comments. I will admit that the damage was a little more excessive than I thought it was before I bought the car. The previous owner had used it for a daily driver and it served him well. I wasn't even looking for it when I came across it. I knew I wanted a project, but I certainly didn't think I could find a 2002 without spending an arm and a leg. To answer your question, the wall behind the back seat looks good. The rust for the shock towers stops just inside. The pillar bases all seem to be in good shape. The rear pans are solid. The front pans need to be replaced. The front towers have small amounts of surface rust. The engine bay is clean, as well as the firewall. There is so much that is right with this car to go with so much that needs to addressed. I'll admit that it has crossed my mind to flip it and look for a better example. Most of the better examples I have seen without spending a fortune have major interior and engine issues. I realize that is a lot easier to fix than chassis issues I may get into it and decide to sell it to someone who has the resources better than I do. We shall see. Thanks again for the feedback.
  23. 2002Rocks

    Purchased!

    1976 BMW 2002, Verona red with 4-speed manual trans.
  24. 2002Rocks

    Trunk Tray

    From the album: Purchased!

    This will need to be replaced as well, but it is the least of my worries.
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