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About 2002Rocks

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  1. 2002Rocks


  2. You need to pull the trim off that goes around the panels. You then need to pull up on the panels and they will snap away. it's kind of a pain to get back there and get in the right position to pull straight up, but it can be done. In hindsight I wish I would have done it with the seats still in. It would have been more comfortable that way Good Luck!
  3. I haven't had much to update for awhile, so I thought I would post one. After getting heat in my detached garage, I was finally able to get the pedal box, steering box and brake parts all out. I had been patiently waiting for floor pans and a trunk pan to come from Colorado, but after 3 months I realized they were never coming and have finally asked for my money back and ordered parts from Germany. If there is one thing I have learned through this process, it is that if you don't have the parts in a few weeks, you wont have them in a few months either As soon as the body parts get here, she is ready to be delivered to the welder and body man. I hope that process goes smoother than the previous one.
  4. Spent more time today stripping the 02. About the only things left are the headlights. Getting closer to the body work.

    1. Cyclone101


      Stripping... a lot less fun than it sounds :)

  5. In my last post I indicated that the motor would be pulled "in the next few weeks". If you are anything like me (Read: Busy Dad) then then you know when you make statements like that, then life happens. Finally we were able to get together and make this happen.We decided to pull the motor and the transmission as one unit. While I had thought that I had everything disconnected, there were still a few things that I had to take care of quickly while the others were busy doing the hard work. Remember not to forget these things: Speedometer cable and the shifter. Also, we did end up removing the distributor at the 11th hour. There just wasn't quite enough room for it to clear. The motor mounts were a pain. We ended up removing them completely before we could get the whole thing lose. After that it was smooth sailing. The tie rod makes an excellent resting point for the transmission if you get to a holding point. So now that the motor is out and I can start tearing it down, a few questions remain: Will I go to a 2 carb set-up or stick with a single? Will I try to find a 5 speed transmission and ditch the current 4-speed? As always, comments are welcome
  6. In the next week or so I will be pulling the engine from "Fernanda". You might be wondering how in the world I came up with that name? The name means adventurous, bold journey. I could not have picked a better definition for what I am in the middle of Anyway, I spent this past weekend prepping the motor for removal. That means all the hoses and lines were disconnected and labeled. I also pulled the radiator and the alternator. I took lots of pictures to document this process. I also followed the Haynes manual step by step during this process. This is a must for anyone working on these cars. Just a fair warning that the pictures are old and the printing isn't very well done because of the age of the photo files. However, it does give good reference points. This gives me two different types of documentation; pictures and labeling as well as the manual. I am going to attempt to pull both motor and the transmission together. I have been told that I need to be able to angle the motor at a pretty good degree in order to be able to pull them both and that the car's front end will need to be sitting up pretty high. You can bet that I will be combing the blogs and entries on this site for further tips. Wish me luck!
  7. As I have some time in my evenings, which is growing more difficult since school started, I have started to remove body parts. The trunk and hood are off. The left fender is off because it has a rust spot deep enough that it will be better to replace than to repair. If you happened to have one of these you are willing to part with, please hit me up. The hood removal is really a two person job. I am not sure there is a right way to take it off, so I started with the front mounts. Once those were lose, we closed the hood and removed the hinge pieces. My son was there in the front holding the hood in place while I removed the bolts.The bumper needs to be partially taken off to remove the fender, as does the hood. The fender was easier than I thought it was going to be, which makes me think it has been removed before. Don't forget the trim pieces! I had the fender most of the way off before I remembered the bottom trim piece that goes along along the rocker panels. Oops! I was able to get all the trim removed without destroying anything. Just remember to use a rubber scraper to remove this so you don't ruin the trim pieces or your paint (if you care about such things). So now my garage is filling up fast and I am running out of room. I have a storage shed that will house the body parts until I am ready for them again. The next step is to get the motor ready to be pulled
  8. I enjoyed reading this. I am just starting on my project and look forward to gaining knowledge from you and others on this site.
  9. I have recently started on a journey myself. It looks as if you have a good base to start with. Good Luck! and enjoy the ride.
  10. As promised, here is a pic after it has been cleaned up some. I have a blog on this site where I am detailing the steps of my rebuild as well, if anyone is interested. Again, feedback is always welcome. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/34-2002rocks-blog/
  11. 2002Rocks

    Black Tape

    This weekend I had a little extra time for my project. After my pal Sam and I put together a plan for the welding and paint, I decided I was going to start taking everything apart, preparing the car for the welding, body and paint work. I spent a little more time in the back scraping off the sound deadening material from the firewall and shock towers. While the towers are not desirable, there is still quite a bit of base metal there to work with. After doing this for a few hours, I went to the trunk where my son and I removed the gas tank. This was harder than it sounds. The screws holding the gas tank to the trunk pan were rusted up and were a little hard to break loose. They are attached with a welded nut (for lack of the better word). I didn't remember to use the Liquid Wrench until after breaking the first nut away from the body. Once that happens, have fun getting a pair of pliers in there between the bottom of the gas tank and the rear tire to hold the nut into place (speaking from experience). After that the tail and marker lights came out, as well as the trunk lid. Part of my day also went to ensuring all of my parts were organized. Labeled baggies with all the screws, bolts and connectors are sitting in order on the work table. My work table is 8' x 4' and was built specifically for this project; keeping in mind that I would need a large work area to lay parts out. As I was taking the tail lights out, I remembered back when I was a kid installing stereo systems. Black tape was a real no no. I always wanted to do it right using wire connectors. Apparently the person who owned this car previously had never heard of those. I discovered quite a bit of black tape between the tail lights and rear markers. It also reminded me to take my time and make sure this project is done right, rather than just throwing it together with black tape.
  12. I appreciate the feedback. I had people from two different shops inspect and they both agree that there is enough base there to fix the problem. However, based on comments here, I am going to clean all the paint, sealant and take everything down to bare metal. Once that is complete, then I will will make a decision. I certainly want a clean look and not a hack job. I will post some more pictures of this once it is done for some more feedback. Thank you to everyone for the help! Chad
  13. Hello everyone! I am sure this has been discussed but I am at a point on the shock towers where i don't know whether to repair or replace. I have had a restoration shop tell me that they can repair them, but as you can see from the pictures here and on my blog, it is a lot of rust and goes most of the way around. Amazingly enough, the car rode really good before I started tearing it apart. I can't believe what I got myself into, but I am still committed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  14. TR I knew there was rust on the trunkside of the shock towers when I bought the car, and I also knew there was some rust in the floorboards. I just didn't realize there was this much rust. i did not have the car up in the air before I ripped everything apart. The outside looked pretty clean, the motor ran well and everything worked. it was a rookie mistake. In my excitement to find a "local" car here in the rural MO, I ended up paying too much for it. I did take it to a restoration shop after getting a closer look and was told that it would be fixable and that they had seen a lot worse (think vintage Mustangs and Camaros). Now I am committed. I'll do all the prep work myself and let the experts do the welding. I have ordered the floor pans and they will shape the shock towers when they do the rest. To answer your Real question: No way would I have bought it if I would have known it had that much rust. lol. It's going to be an expensive lesson to learn. Any advice is appreciated.

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