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AlfaBMWGuy

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Everything posted by AlfaBMWGuy

  1. Being a late model and looking a bit darker than Baikal, I would guess
  2. I didn't think you were calling me out, but just wanted to make the point since casual readers seeing this thread, perhaps years from now, would offhand think those were bottlecaps in my pictures. It's always good to point out there is a difference because it is quite subtle--the fewer "spokes" on the earlier alloys and the deeper dish. BMW must have liked that style to then mimic them with the later bottlecaps for many years. Also, I don't see a tuck vs. no tuck "controversy" as much as big U.S. safety bumpers vs. the smaller pre-74 bumpers that were on the Euro cars until the end.
  3. My wheels look like E30 bottlecaps, but are actually OEM FPS alloys original to the square light 2002s. What confuses me is why when we are talking about tucking late bumpers on square light cars, someone posts a pic of a pre-71 round light car with original "shorty" chrome bumpers on a stanced car? I guess they love the pic so much they are looking for places to post it?
  4. Ha, it's Calgary, Alberta circa summer 2021. I suspect some of the haze might be smoke from forest fires, although retrieving my tii from up there is the only time I've been so maybe that's just normal. My car has such nice body/paint work that I can't justify a Euro bumper conversion as pretty as they are. Besides becoming car conscious is the late 70's myself, this is just how BMWs were back then so it's not as offensive to me as some. I couldn't see not doing at least a modest tuck though. -Gary
  5. I researched this a couple years ago to find the best way to get this done in a few hours (vs. the longer project with welding, sourcing an E21 front bumper, etc. in your original link). I'm happy with my results following the guidance here: http://ericsgarage.blogspot.com/2015/01/1975-bmw-2002-bumper-tuck.html All the pics he has help. I think it's critical even with draining the hydraulic fluid from the bumper shocks that the front of the bumper sticks out further that the leading edge of the hood and some extreme tucks I've seen don't do that. I just don't trust people parking in front of me not to do it by feel and I don't want to risk body damage from that. Here are my results on my '74 tii: It certainly fits a lot better in the garage. Here's how it started, oh my: I also redid the suspension giving it a lower stance since this shot before I took ownership. -Gary
  6. As the OP for this thread, I will add that my mechanic was finally able to persuade the Koni yellow struts into my '74 tii strut tubes. He did this after some judicious sanding off of excess paint and "lumpy welds". It was a tight fit and took some "convincing" not needed with the Bilsteins being removed, but he's sure they can also be extracted if needed. Even before this sanding/grinding he was able to get the Koni inserted partially into the tube so we just wanted to see if others had used this technique to make it work before doing something irreversible. -Gary
  7. Trying to answer my own question, I played around with this "speedometer calibration calculator": https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/ This let me know it's higher aspect ratios that would help with compensating for speedometer error. With my highest acceptable 185 width (lesser width results in aspect ratios that aren't produced) going to 80 aspect ratio, you can get a 6.3% "compensation" for an optimistic speedometer. But, looking on TireRack for instance, that 185/80x13 size is made only for trailers, not passenger cars. So without going to wider wheels and fatter tires (I'd rather live with some speedo error than compromise the light steering), there is not a viable option that helps with optimistic speedometers.
  8. I know I could figure this out, but I'm not nearly as good at the tire calculator thing as some are... Many of us have speedos that are in the 5-10% "optimistic" range. That is, a speedo is 10% optimistic if it indicates a speed of 55 mph when you are actually going 50 mph. This would be either with stock 165x13 tires or with the closest equivalent 185/70x13. For 13" tires, if I wanted to not go any wider than 185 to keep near stock steering effort (165, 175, and 185 would all be fine) and to work with period wheel widths, what would be the best tire sizes to help compensate for say a 5% optimistic speedometer and then a 10% optimistic speedometer? Just wondering if that would help with tire availability and prices along with giving a more correct speedometer reading, effectively killing two birds with one stone. Thanks, Gary
  9. Wow, very cool! All that hidden away in Alaska. Makes me wish I had a pre-71 2002 again.
  10. Yes, that's broken off for sure and it's a critical component in making the taillight weathertight. Mine had broken off and no glue would hold it on given the pressure exerted to hold the lens against the gasket so had to buy a new lens from BMW (via BluntTech) a couple years ago. -Gary
  11. Sent inquiry on Blaupunkt radio to your gmail address Harry. Thanks, Gary
  12. Didn't there used to be a way to make a WTB thread as "Found" like you mark a FS thread as "Sold" or am I imagining that?
  13. Found nice hard covers from Enoz05, same seller I bought the lights from.
  14. Still looking a year later in case someone found a spare...Bueller....
  15. I have the 5.75" Marchal 819 driving lights. Looking for nice condition Marchal logo covers, either hard or soft. Thanks, Gary
  16. Ooops, my mistake. I only need the right/passenger seal. This is still available. -Gary
  17. I will take this. PM incoming. Thanks, Gary
  18. Maybe a sore subject to some, but regardless of current economic conditions I think this one would be bid to the moon on BringATrailer given what I see. Incredibly generous to offer this to FAQ forum members at that asking price. A follow-on then is that this is the type of opportunity that a flipper looks for and it would be a shame for that to happen--that the flipper would end up with that difference between asking price and market value instead of the current owner. -Gary
  19. 1. As pointed out by @zinz, your alternator is fried so no reason to stress out anything else on the car by attempting to start it again until that is replaced. 2. I can give my personal endorsement for going to a 123 electronic ignition (not 321 as stated in video) to replace your distributor. I've been very happy running a first generation 123 distributor on my '73 Alfa Giulia Super since 2008 and a modern Bluetooth programmable one on my '74 tii since last year. 3. Checked out the BaT auction listing for your 2002. The reason you had to remove that air box hose was because an incorrect one was on there. It's about twice as long as it should be even leading to the previous owner twisting the winter/summer box on the snorkel to try to keep the hose from hitting the fan. Talk to BluntTech as I know at least as of a few years ago you could still get this hose new. -Gary
  20. Very generous offer @resra. Vartan, by far the hardest part to find are properly functioning gauges, not a decent quality housing or surround. I'd get the cluster you were sent in your car to verify function of the gauges to figure out whether all you need is this housing. If so, swapping the gauges into a different housing is very easy and you already need to flip the face plate on the temp/fuel gauge anyway.
  21. As an aside, if he's concerned about that face plate for the temp/fuel gauge being upside down, that's easily swapped after removing the gauge from the cluster. Never seen anyone put it in upside down and then actually mount the gauge back in the cluster. Maybe that's what he was having an issue with in the first pic he sent back to you.
  22. Agree with @jrhone. That blemish next to the trip odometer reset is about as bad as the one you pointed out to him above the brake warning light. I don't see any other blemishes though in the pics he sent you so really that looks like the only oversight. That said though, $110 with shipping is a huge bargain if all those gauges work properly including the speedometer and odometer you didn't explicitly mention in terms of function (and of course the diff ratio for those being what the buyer needs). A working tach as well to swap out with the clock at the buyer's discretion is a major plus. I'd say that's more than a fair price regardless of the condition of the gauge surround. But, obviously he cares a lot about the condition of the surround as much or more than the gauges. I've recently bought some used clusters to try to fix speedo/odo issues. I'd say an actual market price for all of those gauges, if working well, and then a non-blemished surround would be about $200. So you've more than compensated for the blemishes with your pricing. Again though, the buyer isn't happy so offering to refund the $110 if he pays for return shipping seems like the right thing to do. -Gary
  23. Thanks for reviving this 3-year old thread and thanks for the Covercraft recommendation back then. I just ordered one as this is one of those low priority things I hadn't got to since buying my '74 tii a year ago. But, having an uncracked original dash and living in the desert of eastern WA meant it was worth investing (spendy for sure) in a nice one of these sunscreens. The Covercraft version reminds me of the factory accessory one I had with my '91 318is where the original owner seemed to have loaded up on every accessory possible. I prefer (Covercraft) fold-up to (WeatherTech) roll-up. Takes a while for them to create these, estimated ship date of Sept 6, but just glad they make them at all for our '02s. Just wish they made one for my '73 Alfa Giulia Super, but no such luck. -Gary
  24. I'm taking this North America one to match it with the coffee color tii badge I bought yesterday. Thanks, Gary
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